Timing chain grinding, daily driver
04-13-2008, 03:56 PM
#1
Timing chain grinding, daily driver
Hey guys, so my maxima finally broke again. At first, it started making slight grinding noises from the timing chain area, but these noises were very quiet and only seemed noticeble between 2400rpm and 3000rpm. When the idle got under 600rpm, the oil light slightly flashed. Later i added oil. One thing i noticed that is that the car was down on power above 5k rpm. Then after 40 more miles, the car started grinding more and more, and simultaneously loosing more and more power. Right now, the grinding is very loud and the car feels like it's running on 50hp. It hardly has enough power to accelerate with traffic, while having it floored. The grinding is VERY loud. The oil light now comes on when i'm under 1000rpm, and goes off when i go over 1000rpm. I added oil to it, and no change. The noise definitely sounds like it's coming form the timing chain cover, so i took the chain tensioner cover off and had a friend crank the car. The tensioner did seem to move the chain quite easily. I'm not sure if i should automatically assume that it's ok or not though, because it used to make the grinding at above 2500rpm. I just don't have money to start throwing parts at the car and hoping that i guess correctly. Also, the oil light seems to come on more as i drive more; as it, it's not on much when the engine is cold, but it comes on every time i'm under 1krpm when the engine is warm.
I don't have an IACV valve in my car because of the 00vi, but the car used to not have any idle issues whatsoever after it warmed up. Now after these grinding noises started, it will NOT idle. The idling was getting worse and worse progressively with the grinding increase, and now it doesnt idle at all.
so...any ideas? this car is my DD and i really can't afford not to have a car.
I don't have an IACV valve in my car because of the 00vi, but the car used to not have any idle issues whatsoever after it warmed up. Now after these grinding noises started, it will NOT idle. The idling was getting worse and worse progressively with the grinding increase, and now it doesnt idle at all.
so...any ideas? this car is my DD and i really can't afford not to have a car.
04-13-2008, 05:25 PM
#7
04-13-2008, 05:33 PM
#8
04-13-2008, 05:34 PM
#9
04-13-2008, 05:47 PM
#12
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
If you've been driving it around with oil pressure low enough to turn the light on and cause the timing chain to lose tension, then you have definately caused some internal engine damage.
When the low oil pressure light comes on, you should stop driving it immediately and have it diagnosed.
That being said, as nismology just mentioned, check the oil pressure. If it's very low, drop the pan and have a look at the oil pump and the engine bearings. If the pump is clogged and the bearings look good, consider yourself lucky and put an oil pump in. If the bearings are shot, start looking around for a new or used engine.
Next time the oil light comes on, stop driving the car until you can have it looked at.
When the low oil pressure light comes on, you should stop driving it immediately and have it diagnosed.
That being said, as nismology just mentioned, check the oil pressure. If it's very low, drop the pan and have a look at the oil pump and the engine bearings. If the pump is clogged and the bearings look good, consider yourself lucky and put an oil pump in. If the bearings are shot, start looking around for a new or used engine.
Next time the oil light comes on, stop driving the car until you can have it looked at.
04-13-2008, 05:54 PM
#13
If you've been driving it around with oil pressure low enough to turn the light on and cause the timing chain to lose tension, then you have definately caused some internal engine damage.
When the low oil pressure light comes on, you should stop driving it immediately and have it diagnosed.
That being said, as nismology just mentioned, check the oil pressure. If it's very low, drop the pan and have a look at the oil pump and the engine bearings. If the pump is clogged and the bearings look good, consider yourself lucky and put an oil pump in. If the bearings are shot, start looking around for a new or used engine.
Next time the oil light comes on, stop driving the car until you can have it looked at.
When the low oil pressure light comes on, you should stop driving it immediately and have it diagnosed.
That being said, as nismology just mentioned, check the oil pressure. If it's very low, drop the pan and have a look at the oil pump and the engine bearings. If the pump is clogged and the bearings look good, consider yourself lucky and put an oil pump in. If the bearings are shot, start looking around for a new or used engine.
Next time the oil light comes on, stop driving the car until you can have it looked at.
04-13-2008, 08:22 PM
#15
As I think about it, unless i find out that it's something simple, i might as well just swap for another vq30. Looking at car-part.com, there are a bunch around my area for ~$350. From a qucik search, installing a new oil pump involves removing timing equipmet...that doesn't sound too appealing. I can probably find a cheaper one on here, so if anybody has one, shoot me a PM.
Right now, the car is back to making the 'small' grinding sound when the engine is at 2400rpm-3000rpm...i'm assuming that the fuel pump works for a little while after it hasn't been on in a couple hours, and then it can't keep up after a while, especially at higher RPM.
Right now, the car is back to making the 'small' grinding sound when the engine is at 2400rpm-3000rpm...i'm assuming that the fuel pump works for a little while after it hasn't been on in a couple hours, and then it can't keep up after a while, especially at higher RPM.
04-14-2008, 07:05 AM
#17
04-14-2008, 03:14 PM
#19
04-14-2008, 06:44 PM
#20
haha well why wait? It's a daily driver!
Just going to get a DE and swap that in(found for $300), the car was going to be sold soon anyway. I would swap a 3.5, but i decided it's not worth the hassle since i dont really want to keep the maxima anyway, kind of sick of it, just need a change.
If anybody wants a fully working 00vi, send me a pm, all the VI equipment is already off of the car. I can actually take the VAFC off of the car very soon as well, so that would be good to sell as a package. Will have other stuff too like a Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley.
Just going to get a DE and swap that in(found for $300), the car was going to be sold soon anyway. I would swap a 3.5, but i decided it's not worth the hassle since i dont really want to keep the maxima anyway, kind of sick of it, just need a change.
If anybody wants a fully working 00vi, send me a pm, all the VI equipment is already off of the car. I can actually take the VAFC off of the car very soon as well, so that would be good to sell as a package. Will have other stuff too like a Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley.
04-14-2008, 06:55 PM
#21
haha well why wait? It's a daily driver!
Just going to get a DE and swap that in(found for $300), the car was going to be sold soon anyway. I would swap a 3.5, but i decided it's not worth the hassle since i dont really want to keep the maxima anyway, kind of sick of it, just need a change.
If anybody wants a fully working 00vi, send me a pm, all the VI equipment is already off of the car. I can actually take the VAFC off of the car very soon as well, so that would be good to sell as a package. Will have other stuff too like a Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley.
Just going to get a DE and swap that in(found for $300), the car was going to be sold soon anyway. I would swap a 3.5, but i decided it's not worth the hassle since i dont really want to keep the maxima anyway, kind of sick of it, just need a change.
If anybody wants a fully working 00vi, send me a pm, all the VI equipment is already off of the car. I can actually take the VAFC off of the car very soon as well, so that would be good to sell as a package. Will have other stuff too like a Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley.
04-14-2008, 07:11 PM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
Sorry about the lose man. I am sure the oil was low for sometime and the light came on when there was maybe a quart or two in the engine and you spun your rod bearings and probally did damage to the oil pump and It was low pressured and failing anyways. This can explain the timming chain rattling and the oil light coming on and off and your engine was making the grinding noise. Get a cheap 3.0 and with low mileage and build It strong. Good luck.
04-15-2008, 06:08 AM
#23
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