slowmanvns

Just replaced my front brakes and noticed my CV boot (passeger side) was ripped with grease already leaking out. Can someone recommend a repair facility in Queens, NY that would do a good job for a reasonable price? Thanks.

d1max2nv

iTrader: (5)

Just change it out yourself. it isn't that hard to do. if you can change your own brakes you could change your cv joints.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Get a rebuild axle. Replacing boots doesn't save much money and many more things can go wrong. (I've done both boots and axles, and I'll never buy a boot kit again)

nafddur

I replaced my outer boots right after they began to fail many years ago. MY CV joints are still perfect - at almost 200K miles.

If you repair the boots soon enough, there is no need to replace the joints themselves.

Hexon

iTrader: (1)

+1. So long as dirt didn't get into the boot when it ripped, the axles should be fine. If you do change the axles, just for peace of mind, I've heard great things about raxles.

vilmaxima

If its not a huge rip, and u know it has not been like that for too long, just replace the boot. Even if dirt got in it, u could clean it, pack new grease in it and throw on the new boot and be on your way. That is if nothing in there got damaged.

celsoglima

When replacing the CV boots, does the driveshaft have to come out of the car or is it possible to do the work by just detaching it from the wheel knuckle/hub?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Did mine just over a year ago. I caught them just starting to split open while I was under the car changing the oil. I think it was a moog boot kit for around 12 bucks. Definately a messy job, but worth ~$30 bucks and getting full of grease.

Phatmax98

iTrader: (2)

just replace the axle, I changed my axles 2 months ago since both boots were cracked, and I got brand new axles from advance auto for $140. but I changed them since my car had 187k on it at the time.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

hell, i've had cars where the boot not only ripped, but lost ALL the grease and still worked perfectly.not saying its a good idea to do that but there isnt a big rush to do and unless your beating the crap outta your car than there's no reason to replace axle.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

How stupid

Do can also run on flat tires, or better yet you can even ride around on just the rims, the're round.

celsoglima

The outer CV boot on the passenger side of my car just ripped this week and I have some grease in the fender well and around the driveshaft/wheel knuckle. I don't think I need a new axle yet.

My question now is, can I replace the outer cv boot without taking out the driveshaft if I just need to replace the boot or does it have to come out regardless?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You can replace the boot without removing the axle, yes. However, it's more of a PITA that way; take the extra 15 minutes to remove the axle from the car and repair it on the bench.

celsoglima

I guess I see your point about taking the whole driveshaft out of the car.

After looking at a few other postings, the motorvate web site and the haynes manual, I got confused about draining the the transmission oil.

The haynes manual mentions about placing a container under the car in case some fluid comes out. The motorvate site mentions about draining the transmission fuid.

Do I need to drain the transmission fluid or do I just need to have something to catch some fluid that may come out?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

It's up to you.

Since most cars haven't had the transmission fluid changed in a long time, it's an excellent idea to completely drain it and put in fresh stuff.

Dave

Phatmax98

iTrader: (2)

when I did my axles, I did the driverside first and about a quart came out, I did not drain my tranny, just topped it off when I was done

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

dude, these kids in here are no better off than i was with money at their age. i had many cars with issues like a ripped boot, bald tires, bad brakes. etc etc. but i know for a fact its not a rush item unless its a large rip and grease is spewing out, then you should get it done asap. trust me, ive driven cars into the ground with dry boots and it was stupid but all that happened is the bearings will start clicking and it could lock up on you. serious situation there, but thats a worst case senario. ive had at least 25 cars in my lifetime and they all had some problem or another that i ignored till i had to fix it. my .02....

celsoglima

I could keep driving it like it is, but a lot of grease has already spun off all over the fender well and everything else attached to the knuckle. There is still grease in the boot, but it will be a matter of time until dirt gets inside the boot and make matters worse.

As far as draining the tranny fluid, I just had my tranny serviced 5 months ago, so the fluid is new with less than 3K miles on it. Unless one is very carefull while draining that fluid as far as avoiding any type of contaminant from getting into it during the draining process, I don't think it is a good idea to drain and put the same fluid back in. In that case it may be best to let it come out through the driveshaft whole and top it off with new fluid.

Sentientbydesig

The CV boot is on the CV axle. The 4th gen maximas were all FWD and didn't have driveshafts (transfers mechanical movement from the engine or transmission to a differential).

Replacing the entire axle is more time and cost effective. I purchased two rebuilt axles for $50/each.

The labor involved in removing the axle is the same for replacing the boot or replacing the axle, BUT you won't have to fiddle with extra grease, HOPING that the joints are both in good condition, and fitting the new boots on without tearing them.

The only boots that can be replaced without removing the axle are the onces that come in two halves. I have heard many bad things about these as the seals are prone to breaking.

ALSO on another forum, one of the members decided to go the "stubborn" way and just replace the boots. A week later, the joint snapped and yanked the axle from the transmission. I can't remember exactly what happened, but I do know that they ended up doing twice the labor and paying for both the boots (from the original "repair) plus new axles to replace the damaged ones.

celsoglima

I ended up buying a whole new drive axle as some of you have recommended. As I was removing the old one out of the car, I didn't pay attention to the way the round metal dust shield was in. I know the side with the groove faces the end of the axle. However this dust shield has a small flattened area on its side. What does that mean as far as the installation?

Does anybody remember dealing with that dust shield? I am replacing it with a new one that came with the replacement drive axle.

Sentientbydesig

IIRC, the dust shield goes towards the transmission. I tore my old one up trying to pry the axle out of the transmission.