Okay. Tried reading some old threads,but found no clue for this problem. Many seem to had same kind of problem but no one was able to tell what the f*** is wrong. This seems to be the closest one yet http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...ont-start.html

So the facts:

Jut rebuilt the whole car so guess anything.
Fidanza flywheel,and some y-pipe,dont remember the mark.
Ground cables added.
No codes

Sometimes the car starts,and other times doesnt. Once the car starts,it runs like new,no problems. It always starts with "push start",immediately. If the car doesnt start when turning the key,theres no spark (checked) but fuel is running fine so dont ask for fuel issues,(pump,fuses,pressure etc,its fine,trust me ).
When the car doesnt start, the injectors keep firing when I stop cranking like the car thinks it started.
So,anything?

 

Did you ever find out what your problems were on your car, we are about to light a match to ours.

 

Rebuilt means rebuilt
I mean I took everything apart and put back again. Replaced of course almost everything.
The sensors seemed fine when I measured them but I'll double check.Dont know about the TSB,but guess I need to do it next weekend..?

 

rebuilt engine,went through every inch of the body to fix rust,painted it,and pretty much opened up every piece of the car that could be opened and cleaned.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2524853

 

Oh and I actually changed the body as I had two maximas. One was automatic 3.0 with leather seats and A/C and stuff,the other was 2.0 with manual and no extras. So I made the 3.0 with its accesories to the 2.0 body,and swapped it to manual at the same time.

 

help still wanted. Any suggestions?

 

Okay,trying to make things easier. Could someone tell me does immobiliser stop spark or fuel? What sensor could cause no spark situation? What terms must be fulfilled for ECU to send spark?

 

Checked the Crankshaft position sensors,and I think the one from flywheel side is bad. At least if the fsm is right. 6.6V when screwdriver not connected and battery voltage when SD pulled away quickly. Are there any other causes that can do this except the sensor itself? Like bad connection at ECU side or something?

 

2.0 maxima ?

 

i just went thru the same problem....my mechanic tried grinding the extra CPS i had and plugged it in and its been fine since then

 

lemme know if u want some crank position sensors

 

Oh,and also noticed today that when starting,the rpms bounce between 1300-2000. I doubt that the starter can spin it so fast And another thing just occured,didnt do that before,at least I didnt notice. If I put the lights and blower on, the car starts to run awfully at about 2000rpms. It sound like not enough something; gas,air or fuel.

 

Anyone? I really want to get the car back on the road again.

 

I have responded,I checked the CPS and it was faulty. But it really doesnt make sense to me why would a faulty CPS cause the last symptoms I described.

 

Okay,found something new. Tested ecu ground pins with multimeter beeper mode. Found that one pin beeps a little weird.Like bebebebebebebe and the others go with steady beeeeeeeeeeeep. Dont remember which is was but anyways the question is can I just cut all the ground wires coming to ECU and ground them with new wires elsewhere?

 

And more things checked. What is the purple wire coming from F107 (at least I think) and connects to ECU pin 40/41? FSM tells me nothing so Im confused. Also the yellow/red wire coming from F107(not sure if it is that), connects to ground,but resistance is something like 25 ohms. So it is screwed it think. But anyone with info about the purple wire?

 

It was connector F105/M50. The purple wire goes to ECU pin #40. FSM states its unused...? Where can I found all the wires connected to M50? Does FSM have such a diagram or do I just have to look through every page to find them out?

 

Pin 40 is used for EGR control in the '99, but that's USDM; no idea what year your stuff came out of or whether it's the same.

There's no such listing, you have to go through all of EC/EL.

FWIW, I rewired a '99 to use '96 ECU and harness a while back, here's the listing for both:

96:

• 1: G TPS
• 2: G/B DLC kline
• 3: W/G Tach
• 4: Br/Y Consult SCIRX
• 5: P Consult SCITX
• 6: LG Consult SCICL
• 7: LG/B CEL
• 9: G/R FPCM
• 13: L/B Coolant temp gauge
• 14: R/L IACV EGR CSV/CPCSV MAP/BARO SSV
• 15: P/L VSS
• 17: BR/W Start switch
• 19: R/W Load

99:

• 1: G TPS
• 2: G/B DLC kline
• 3: W/G Tach
• 4: Br/Y Consult SCIRX
• 5: P Consult SCITX
• 6: LG Consult SCICL
• 7: LG/B CEL
• 13: L/B Coolant temp gauge
• 14: R/Y MAP/BARO SSV IACV SWIRL
• 15: P/L VSS
• 17: Br/W Start switch
• 19: R/W Load
• 20: G/W Reverse

I don't know if that's the whole list or not.

 

Thanks for the info,helped out a lot.

But now I have to check something if you guys have any info.
Okay,I'm trying to figure out what is needed for spark,as I'm not having it when starting. So,are these correct (from EC page 22):

CPS(POS)
MAF
ECTS
TPS
Vehicle speed sensor
Start signal
Knock sensor
Neutral position switch
TCM
CPS (REF)
CAM sensor.

Anything else needed for spark?

And also Im not really sure what the readings should be when starting as the FSM only tells me what they should be when idling or RPM's at 2000.

 

During your search, did you find crazy97's thread providing a grounding solution?

 

Yes,I did. No use. Something came up though. Ecu pin 22,neutral switch gives me 4.7V all the time. If I read correctly it should give 0 volts when car is in neutral. I have swapped manual transmission but I did the wiring as told in instructions so guess I have to recheck. But still it doesnt make sense to me as the car seems to start quite well when it is warm. When engine is cold it doesn't start at all except when pushed.

 

When you swapped, did you wire it up to the clutch switch, or to the old P/N position switch?

Personally I wired mine up so the neutral switch on the trans completes the P/N circuit. No need to use the clutch pedal to start, no longer have to worry about leaving it in gear for my remote start, etc. Another plus, no CEL for the P/N position switch.

 

I did the same thing. I wanted to be able to start the car without the clutch pedal as I often need to for some odd reason. It makes life a lot easier when you have the extra leg free for something else.

 

Hi guys.I still got no spark. Now it wont start up at all. It cranks fine and all,but it just doesnt give spark to any cylinder. Push start still works though. I checked start signal to ECU and it was okay. Both crankshaft sensors are within values and I rewired them also. Added some more ground wires also.

 

I was able to solve the problem tonight. I replaced the old 8-tooth starter with the 11-tooth one. Don't know why that solved it,maybe the sensors can pick up the readings faster now. The injector firing issue I solved also,it was because the cranking with the old starter had caused the Crankshaft position sensor to be full of little metal pieces. Anyone with facts why this solved it? Is it because of the reduced weight (fidanza)?