What causes a CV boot to blow?
09-09-2008, 06:42 PM
#1
What causes a CV boot to blow?
I am curious about this...i just replace my whole front axle not too long ago...maybe 8,000 miles... and it looks like my cv boot just kinda blew up...i noticed when i went under the car to do a Y pipe install, but im holding off til i get it taken care of...it was done at nissan too, so i dont know why it would go so fast...
09-09-2008, 06:49 PM
#2
If you are severely lowered, due to the angle the axle has to bend at the "ribs" of the boot will rub against each other and wear down, eventually wearing all the way through and spewing grease everywhere.
09-09-2008, 06:59 PM
#5
09-09-2008, 07:11 PM
#6
just a suggestion...get raxles
i just replaced both of my axles with ones made by raxles.com
by far the best "mod" i have done so far! The shop that i replaced mine in, 4 out of 5 mechanics came over to look at the new axles the 5th was the one installing them and he was shocked...they looked brand new from nissan but i swear the quality looks even better. He showed me some of the ones they use...i couldn't tell the difference btwn my blown and grease leaking one with their so called "re-manufactured".....
i just replaced both of my axles with ones made by raxles.com
by far the best "mod" i have done so far! The shop that i replaced mine in, 4 out of 5 mechanics came over to look at the new axles the 5th was the one installing them and he was shocked...they looked brand new from nissan but i swear the quality looks even better. He showed me some of the ones they use...i couldn't tell the difference btwn my blown and grease leaking one with their so called "re-manufactured".....
09-09-2008, 07:22 PM
#7
ill look into...im just pissed because i just had them done lol...so im gonna have a word with the dealership that did them
plus i still have no clue why is blew so damn quick...
plus i still have no clue why is blew so damn quick...
09-09-2008, 07:35 PM
#8
also...i was looking at a split boot...like quick boot..for a temp fix..i kinda need to go to work n school ;-) ...think itd be fine until i get it to nissan...in about 2 weeks?
09-09-2008, 08:28 PM
#11
If the CV boot just blew, you can quickly replace just the boot and not worry about the headache of replacing the entire axle.
If the dealership just did the work, it should still be under the standard 90 day warranty.
If the dealership just did the work, it should still be under the standard 90 day warranty.
09-09-2008, 08:29 PM
#12
2 weeks?? How many miles do you anticipate driving in the next 2 weeks??? It needs to get fixed NOW, or you're going to need a new axle.
09-09-2008, 08:57 PM
#13
Split boot would work fine for a LITTLE bit.
I've had my driver side boot rip 4 times (
) and passenger 3 times.
Mine usually for some reason always seem to rip after winter? So this winter I checked and yep they were both ripped, replaced them both and not even a month later was almost hit I turned and ran up onto an ice bank and driver side ripped again -_- Oh the pain of the boot.
I've had my driver side boot rip 4 times (
) and passenger 3 times. Mine usually for some reason always seem to rip after winter? So this winter I checked and yep they were both ripped, replaced them both and not even a month later was almost hit I turned and ran up onto an ice bank and driver side ripped again -_- Oh the pain of the boot.
09-09-2008, 09:00 PM
#15
yeah ill do the split boot for a bit..ive got a friend that works at a dealership and he said its cheaper to do the whole axle than the boot so he just said do a quick fix and he will get to it and do the whole axle and labor for $80 in about 3 or 4 weeks...
cant beat it
cant beat it
09-09-2008, 10:04 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lowell/Boston, MA
Posts: 1,613
You prob got a rebuild one. other reasons it could go is old boots that were stored in bad temps causing the toe crack. Also, Keep your wheel straight when you park. Less stress on the boots that way. Mine just ripped this past spring and they been clicking like a mother. So I prob will do the Raxle deal. I just need to see how much they are.
09-10-2008, 10:38 AM
#20
You prob got a rebuild one. other reasons it could go is old boots that were stored in bad temps causing the toe crack. Also, Keep your wheel straight when you park. Less stress on the boots that way. Mine just ripped this past spring and they been clicking like a mother. So I prob will do the Raxle deal. I just need to see how much they are.
04-05-2009, 08:01 AM
#22
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 21
CV axle vs. CV boot replacement
I just replaced both my driver side and passenger side drive axles for less than $180. The dealership is a rip off. They tried to tell me the passenger drive axle would be $762 and for the labor $240 and that's all before tax. If your cv joints are ok and no dirt has gone in there you can always get a boot replacement and grease and gasket kit for $56, but you could save yourself all that trouble and just buy a BRAND NEW axle with the NEW BOOTS in tact for about $70 from autozone with no core charge. If you are doing the drivers side axle you are going to need the axle in addition to a transmission oil seal gasket $8 from Autozone or $18 from NAPA. Yep, I had to go back a second time because when I was installing the driver side axle I clipped the gasket seal and when I got everything together it had a leak. If you want to try it yourself, let me know and I can help you with a tool list and anything else.
04-08-2009, 01:50 AM
#27
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: New York
Posts: 304
Boots usually get torn by physical impact of some sort, it is just thin rubber after all, not armor plating. Debris from the road is the most common cause, but even an automated car-wash can be the culprit.
Some techs like to do the whole boot replacement thing, I think its more trouble than its worth. If you are up for removing the axle, then the boot, cleaning out all the grease and replacing it with fresh grease and then installing the new boot tightly on and re-installing, well then go ahead but after you purchase boot + grease + clamps the amount of money you would have saved versus just buying a remanned axle will be insignificant, maybe $20? Oh and if you just continue driving on it, aside from the mess the splattering grease will cause, once enough debris finds its way in and enough grease finds its way out the CV joint will fail and you will need a new axle anyway... hope you're not in the middle of nowhere when it happens too because your engine will no longer move your car.
Some techs like to do the whole boot replacement thing, I think its more trouble than its worth. If you are up for removing the axle, then the boot, cleaning out all the grease and replacing it with fresh grease and then installing the new boot tightly on and re-installing, well then go ahead but after you purchase boot + grease + clamps the amount of money you would have saved versus just buying a remanned axle will be insignificant, maybe $20? Oh and if you just continue driving on it, aside from the mess the splattering grease will cause, once enough debris finds its way in and enough grease finds its way out the CV joint will fail and you will need a new axle anyway... hope you're not in the middle of nowhere when it happens too because your engine will no longer move your car.
04-08-2009, 09:38 AM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lowell/Boston, MA
Posts: 1,613
just a suggestion...get raxles
i just replaced both of my axles with ones made by raxles.com
by far the best "mod" i have done so far! The shop that i replaced mine in, 4 out of 5 mechanics came over to look at the new axles the 5th was the one installing them and he was shocked...they looked brand new from nissan but i swear the quality looks even better. He showed me some of the ones they use...i couldn't tell the difference btwn my blown and grease leaking one with their so called "re-manufactured".....
i just replaced both of my axles with ones made by raxles.com
by far the best "mod" i have done so far! The shop that i replaced mine in, 4 out of 5 mechanics came over to look at the new axles the 5th was the one installing them and he was shocked...they looked brand new from nissan but i swear the quality looks even better. He showed me some of the ones they use...i couldn't tell the difference btwn my blown and grease leaking one with their so called "re-manufactured".....
04-08-2009, 08:25 PM
#29
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 84
yeah this boot thing seems to be a common problem - just the other day i did an oil change at a shop and rotated my tires mainly to get a look under the car and guess what blown boot
i'm in LA and the price to replace that and the cv joint was 127 smackaroons
i'm in LA and the price to replace that and the cv joint was 127 smackaroons
04-08-2009, 10:22 PM
#30
IF that included labor, it was a very good price. In San Diego it's $180 per axle.
04-08-2009, 11:50 PM
#31
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 84
04-19-2009, 11:56 AM
#32
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 268
The passenger side boot was torn when I bought my Max. I drove it like that for a couple months with no problems before I finally replaced the axle. If torn boots is really this common, I guess I should be checking mine more often. Oil change is due in about 500 miles. I'll check 'em then.
04-20-2009, 12:27 PM
#33
Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 32
Lmao
... anywho my CV axle blew when i hit a pot-hole (not Lowered) and i felt something whack what i thought to be the underbody of my car. It wasn't i believe a rock hit the axel and caused a tear because there was grease on my caliper... so maybe you ran into a pothole or somethin?
Good Luck Though
... anywho my CV axle blew when i hit a pot-hole (not Lowered) and i felt something whack what i thought to be the underbody of my car. It wasn't i believe a rock hit the axel and caused a tear because there was grease on my caliper... so maybe you ran into a pothole or somethin?
Good Luck Though
04-20-2009, 01:40 PM
#34
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: So Il
Posts: 2
I'd suggest not going to Autozone. I ordered what I thought were the proper driver and passenger axle's for my 98' with abs, w/o LSD. Turns out the driver side axle is NOT a direct replacement as there ends up being over a 1/4" gap between the transmission oil seal and the metal seat on the axle itself.
I went to Advanced Auto last night and compared their new axle to the one I bought from Autozone and they are definitely not the same.
Did the entire job myself with a little help from a friend when getting the driver side retaining ring to seat, but definitely not the hardest DIY job, and considering some of the prices thrown around in this thread well worth the effort.
I went to Advanced Auto last night and compared their new axle to the one I bought from Autozone and they are definitely not the same.
Did the entire job myself with a little help from a friend when getting the driver side retaining ring to seat, but definitely not the hardest DIY job, and considering some of the prices thrown around in this thread well worth the effort.
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