I am curious about this...i just replace my whole front axle not too long ago...maybe 8,000 miles... and it looks like my cv boot just kinda blew up...i noticed when i went under the car to do a Y pipe install, but im holding off til i get it taken care of...it was done at nissan too, so i dont know why it would go so fast...

 

If you are severely lowered, due to the angle the axle has to bend at the "ribs" of the boot will rub against each other and wear down, eventually wearing all the way through and spewing grease everywhere.

 

im deff not lowered...lol thats why im sitting here scratching head..lol

is there a cv repair kit that any place sells until i can get it to the dealership and *****?

 

Just get a reman'd axle from autozone.

 

i dont need a new axle though. My axles are about 7 months old lol...the JUST blew...as is ...today.. i changed my oil yesterday and didnt notice anything and when i was under her today i noticed the blown boot

 

just a suggestion...get raxles

i just replaced both of my axles with ones made by raxles.com
by far the best "mod" i have done so far! The shop that i replaced mine in, 4 out of 5 mechanics came over to look at the new axles the 5th was the one installing them and he was shocked...they looked brand new from nissan but i swear the quality looks even better. He showed me some of the ones they use...i couldn't tell the difference btwn my blown and grease leaking one with their so called "re-manufactured".....

 

ill look into...im just pissed because i just had them done lol...so im gonna have a word with the dealership that did them

plus i still have no clue why is blew so damn quick...

 

also...i was looking at a split boot...like quick boot..for a temp fix..i kinda need to go to work n school ;-) ...think itd be fine until i get it to nissan...in about 2 weeks?

 

i had the same thing happen to me but the guy who changed my tires said it may of been that it was driven down a gravel road alot. debris may have gotten up to the boot. it is just rubber after all

 

im in the city.. i have never taken my car off road lol. idk its w/e im just gonna change the boot...its split but not leaking ...so itll be fine i think

 

If the CV boot just blew, you can quickly replace just the boot and not worry about the headache of replacing the entire axle.

If the dealership just did the work, it should still be under the standard 90 day warranty.

 

2 weeks?? How many miles do you anticipate driving in the next 2 weeks??? It needs to get fixed NOW, or you're going to need a new axle.

 

Split boot would work fine for a LITTLE bit.
I've had my driver side boot rip 4 times () and passenger 3 times.
Mine usually for some reason always seem to rip after winter? So this winter I checked and yep they were both ripped, replaced them both and not even a month later was almost hit I turned and ran up onto an ice bank and driver side ripped again -_- Oh the pain of the boot.

 

quick boots are fine. my quick boot was on there for over 25,000 miles.

 

yeah ill do the split boot for a bit..ive got a friend that works at a dealership and he said its cheaper to do the whole axle than the boot so he just said do a quick fix and he will get to it and do the whole axle and labor for $80 in about 3 or 4 weeks...

cant beat it

 

I would check and ask If they gave you a new axle or If It was just a rebuilt.

 

You prob got a rebuild one. other reasons it could go is old boots that were stored in bad temps causing the toe crack. Also, Keep your wheel straight when you park. Less stress on the boots that way. Mine just ripped this past spring and they been clicking like a mother. So I prob will do the Raxle deal. I just need to see how much they are.

 

Where do you find the split boot? I went to Autozone, Pepboys, and Kragen, but nobody has one that fits Nissan Maxima.

 

i ordered one from advanced auto parts...it was $7.88. they had to order it but itll be here tomorrow so til then ill just drive my brothers max

 

IIRC $150 for passenger's side, $120 for driver's, both plus shipping.

 

ill prob do a Raxle if i start hearing a click.

 

I just replaced both my driver side and passenger side drive axles for less than $180. The dealership is a rip off. They tried to tell me the passenger drive axle would be $762 and for the labor $240 and that's all before tax. If your cv joints are ok and no dirt has gone in there you can always get a boot replacement and grease and gasket kit for $56, but you could save yourself all that trouble and just buy a BRAND NEW axle with the NEW BOOTS in tact for about $70 from autozone with no core charge. If you are doing the drivers side axle you are going to need the axle in addition to a transmission oil seal gasket $8 from Autozone or $18 from NAPA. Yep, I had to go back a second time because when I was installing the driver side axle I clipped the gasket seal and when I got everything together it had a leak. If you want to try it yourself, let me know and I can help you with a tool list and anything else.

 

just some info for ya, I replaced my axles last summer, got them New (not remanufactured) from Adavance Auto, $70 for each axle

 

wow...way to go newbie for bumping my november thread.

 

oh snap..I didn't even look at the date of this thread

 

 

Boots usually get torn by physical impact of some sort, it is just thin rubber after all, not armor plating. Debris from the road is the most common cause, but even an automated car-wash can be the culprit.

Some techs like to do the whole boot replacement thing, I think its more trouble than its worth. If you are up for removing the axle, then the boot, cleaning out all the grease and replacing it with fresh grease and then installing the new boot tightly on and re-installing, well then go ahead but after you purchase boot + grease + clamps the amount of money you would have saved versus just buying a remanned axle will be insignificant, maybe $20? Oh and if you just continue driving on it, aside from the mess the splattering grease will cause, once enough debris finds its way in and enough grease finds its way out the CV joint will fail and you will need a new axle anyway... hope you're not in the middle of nowhere when it happens too because your engine will no longer move your car.

 

Getting new ones has nothing to do with solving his problem. ANd Raxles uses the same OEM boots as everything. He does a better job at Remaning his axles tho then most brands, but buying new, nothing is better.

 

yeah this boot thing seems to be a common problem - just the other day i did an oil change at a shop and rotated my tires mainly to get a look under the car and guess what blown boot

i'm in LA and the price to replace that and the cv joint was 127 smackaroons

 

IF that included labor, it was a very good price. In San Diego it's $180 per axle.

 

yep its a korean shop been going there for 5 years now and i hook up the guys with lunches and drinks, helps to get along with ur mechanic!

 

The passenger side boot was torn when I bought my Max. I drove it like that for a couple months with no problems before I finally replaced the axle. If torn boots is really this common, I guess I should be checking mine more often. Oil change is due in about 500 miles. I'll check 'em then.

 

Lmao

... anywho my CV axle blew when i hit a pot-hole (not Lowered) and i felt something whack what i thought to be the underbody of my car. It wasn't i believe a rock hit the axel and caused a tear because there was grease on my caliper... so maybe you ran into a pothole or somethin? Good Luck Though

 

I'd suggest not going to Autozone. I ordered what I thought were the proper driver and passenger axle's for my 98' with abs, w/o LSD. Turns out the driver side axle is NOT a direct replacement as there ends up being over a 1/4" gap between the transmission oil seal and the metal seat on the axle itself.

I went to Advanced Auto last night and compared their new axle to the one I bought from Autozone and they are definitely not the same.

Did the entire job myself with a little help from a friend when getting the driver side retaining ring to seat, but definitely not the hardest DIY job, and considering some of the prices thrown around in this thread well worth the effort.