Hi guys I purchased two wheel bearings from checker auto parts.

I supposedly bought two SKF FW119 bearings.




The one in the brand new box came in a plastic wrapper and was obviously brand new. On the inner part of the bearing it says:

SKF BAH 0040B Korea MO7D3




This bearing has some grease inside, but it is not loaded with grease
When pulling it apart, it is somewhat difficult and I could not get the inner part back in without taking the bearings and attaching them to the inner race and pushing the whole thing back together.

When I hold the inner part and flick the outer park, it spins for maybe half a second and smoothly.

 

The other one, came in a beat up old box, the guy told me it was exactly the same just that they throw it around the shelves a lot.

This one is not an SKF bearing, it is:

NSK 428WD08jb Japan.





As you can see, obviously this one is a bit different. The actual ball bearings inside are not exposed like the SKF Korean bearing. This one is loaded with tons of grease inside. When I pull it apart, it doesn't seem as tight as the SKF, I can easilly pull the inner race right off and put it back in. Although, neither bearing appears to have play in it while it is together. This bearing looks like it was taken out of the box and greased up, but it doesn't appear that it was really used. At least I don't think so.


When I spin this one, it stops immediately unlike the other one but still seems pretty smooth.




My questions are:

1.) Are both of these part numbers for the Maxima? How can I find specific information about those numbers on the bearings other than "FW119" being printed on the box?

2.)Should I take that NSK bearing back and wait another week until they can get in another SKF? Or should I take them both back and wait until they can get in two brand new NSK's?

3.)Bearing grease...the SKF came with some grease in it, but it doesn't look like much. Should I purchase some grease and heavilly grease it up like the NSK bearing I have is?

4.) Any consequinces for the ball bearings being exposed in the SKF vs. sealed in the NSK?



Thanks a bunch guys, I am trying to get this job done this weekend, so any quick help would be MUCH appreciated!

 

i wouldn't use it...

 

yeah, I'd probably take that back. Something doesn't seem right. I mean, if i were you, I would probably cause a stink about it and maybe you'll end up getting something for free??

 

I've replaced my wheel bearings recently. They both looked like the one one the left of your first picture.

 

Ok, since both of yours looked like the one on the left, I will take both of them back and demand two new ones like the one on the left.


I have two more quick questions:


1.) Is the amount of grease that the one on the right came with ok, or should I grease them up like the one on the left with a lot of grease?

2.)I can't get my steering knuckle or my brake disk off:



What is the trick to this? I can't see anything holding on the brake disk. Should I just smack it with a rubber mallet or something?

What about the tie rod circled up top? I removed the pin and the nut, but I can't take it off. I tried bashing it from the bottom with a hammer but no luck.

Same with the thing circled in red below, I can't lift it off of the a-arm.

 

for both ***** joints you will need one of these from your local auto zone:



Be very careful when using the puller as it could "mushroom" the bolt

 

You need to smack the knuckle not the tie rod. A few blows should knock them loose. Hitting the threads with just mess then up.

You should always pack bearings regardless. You dont want to be doing the job ever again right?

If you dont feel comfortable using those bearings, then dont. They both look fine to me. It is a bit unsettling when parts come from different suppliers and are somewhat different. They both should fit however.

 

Wheel bearings are completely sealed. All the races and bearings are self contained and don't come apart like the ones in the pictures.

Don't use them. Find NSK/SKF bearings from

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...swarehouse.com


Coming to the steering knuckle, smach a hammer on the dome like surface and it will pop out...

 

The bearings i bought are sealed and never need regreasing.

 

Sweet, just got two new NSK bearings that appear to be sealed and well greased:

 

There are two threaded holes on the front of the brake rotors, locate a couple bolts at least an inch long that will screw into them. Once they thread through the rotor, they will push against the hub and pop the rotor off. I dont know the exact size bolts needed but I just happened to have some laying around. Othewise, Ive heard of people using a 2x4 with a towel in between to pry off, or maybe a rubber mallet, but I wouldnt want to risk putting cracks into my rotors unless you plan on putting new ones on, so I would try to find some bolts that fit first. Over time the rotors weld themselves to the hub from heat, road salt, and brake dust, so it might take some effort.

 

Hmm, I was under the impression that the hub just had two holes and that the ball joint was on the tie rod and on the a-arm. I still need one of these tools just to slide the steering knuckle/hub/brake disk off?

 

The ball joint is on your steering arm(bottom), the outer tie rod connects to your hub, the rotor is on the hub. I didnt have to use this tool since my tie rod came apart easily, and I just used a "fork" tool to get the ball joint out of the steering arm. if your rotor is stuck(which is what you referred to as the hub) on you can hammer it loose (obvoiusly taking measures not to damage the rotor), or use a bolt in the hole and tighten it on one side then the other and it will pop off. You might need the tool you might not, I didnt. All these tools were available for me to rent free of charge from Canadian Tire.