HELP AXLE HELP
You might've damaged the timing ring on the flexplate on removal or installation, or the CKPS is damaged/disconnected/misaligned, etc.
At the same exact place? Can you take a pic of your axle with a measuring tape, measure it from the base of the shaft (where it meets the large CV joint cup) to the end?
No, doesn't change anything regardless of the car being equipped with ABS or not. Only difference is the reluctor ring on the hub side of the axle, otherwise it's just an empty space.
you should just get a new Trani man. This sucks to happen and scares me a little because I just got my Axles done not to long ago. I even stopped racing because I am scared ****less for something to happen like this. Also the Drop prob did not help too much on the axles as they does cause strain on them. It could of been a faulty part but it hardly makes sense to happen on the highway in an auto because there is not a lot of load on the axles when your going the speed in an auto.
So it could be bad installation or the axle popped out of its race/cage and you kept driving it without knowing or it was not seated to begin with. Is your knunkle a little more out then normal from the suspension change? (Eventho that is not possible but maybe it could happen if your **** is bent) Have you done a good full aligment on the car after the suspenstion and axle change?
Either way you look at it. I would give hell down at who ever installed it. I would never EVER have an autoparts store install my ****. They are just kids learning there. Get it done by a real shop next time or someone you can trust that has a good rep.
So it could be bad installation or the axle popped out of its race/cage and you kept driving it without knowing or it was not seated to begin with. Is your knunkle a little more out then normal from the suspension change? (Eventho that is not possible but maybe it could happen if your **** is bent) Have you done a good full aligment on the car after the suspenstion and axle change?
Either way you look at it. I would give hell down at who ever installed it. I would never EVER have an autoparts store install my ****. They are just kids learning there. Get it done by a real shop next time or someone you can trust that has a good rep.
Not too much time today it rained alot and i was able to pull the axle before dark.
refer to post 1 for the firsts axles condition
Here is the second axles condition



this is the first axles end that was severed off pay attention to the lines it (it looks to have been twisted off.)
refer to post 1 for the firsts axles condition
Here is the second axles condition



this is the first axles end that was severed off pay attention to the lines it (it looks to have been twisted off.)
Seeing it like that and taking a look at the spare diff I have sitting here, it look as if when you're putting the axles in, you're just feeling the first click (when it slides past the frame of the diff, directly above the splines) and not slamming it home to lock the circlip beyond the splines.
The circlip is apparently keeping it secure just enough for the axle not to pop completely out, but it's moving back and forth, just enough for the splines to disengage. When this happens and the car is in gear at any speed, the splines in the diff start to round off the splines on the axle. That also explains how the first axle came apart, as there should be no torque on the axle splines past the circlip.
I'll upload pics in a few of what I'm talking about exactly.
ight when i installed the axle i pushed until i couldnt anymore and im not a lil guy. but i do see what your saying. what type axles are proven to work?? and what auto parts store do you use?? this is a New G&S axle from advance it seems to be alot bigger then the past one from advance.
Most likely you were pushing, but the splines weren't lined up; you were just pushing the axle against the diff, but not into it.
Here's what I think is going on.
When you're installing the axles, it's coming out like this:

Obviously not seated fully, but unless you're underneath looking at it, you would never really know (that's why you always double check before dropping the car to finish up).
It should look like this:

That is fully seated (obviously it looks different if the trans housing is in place, but same exact principle).
Spot the difference?
Here's what I think is going on.
When you're installing the axles, it's coming out like this:

Obviously not seated fully, but unless you're underneath looking at it, you would never really know (that's why you always double check before dropping the car to finish up).
It should look like this:

That is fully seated (obviously it looks different if the trans housing is in place, but same exact principle).
Spot the difference?
gotcha. the first axle lasted for months, and the second lasted for about 30 miles. is it possible for the axle to slide out ?? i hope that made sense. do i have to alter the retaining clip before installation??
is there a thread on what axles people use mostly
Im lowered on Eibach, Agx KYB struts, BBK, with 5/8" spacers and on 20" wheels can any of that be a factor on why this is happening??
But dont get me wrong your making sense im just full of questions. thanks for the help
is there a thread on what axles people use mostly
Im lowered on Eibach, Agx KYB struts, BBK, with 5/8" spacers and on 20" wheels can any of that be a factor on why this is happening??
But dont get me wrong your making sense im just full of questions. thanks for the help
gotcha. the first axle lasted for months, and the second lasted for about 30 miles. is it possible for the axle to slide out ?? i hope that made sense. do i have to alter the retaining clip before installation??
is there a thread on what axles people use mostly
Im lowered on Eibach, Agx KYB struts, BBK, with 5/8" spacers and on 20" wheels can any of that be a factor on why this is happening??
But dont get me wrong your making sense im just full of questions. thanks for the help
is there a thread on what axles people use mostly
Im lowered on Eibach, Agx KYB struts, BBK, with 5/8" spacers and on 20" wheels can any of that be a factor on why this is happening??
But dont get me wrong your making sense im just full of questions. thanks for the help
The circlip shouldn't need any modifications at all.
There's not that much choice for the A32, you've got OEM, raxles, or generic auto parts stores. They should all hold up just fine.
It's either an installation or trans problem.
does anyone have a picture of the axle installed in the car so i can see how it should look when seated to the diff?? You can even take a picture looking straight down through the motor if you have an after market intake.
If you throw one in and take a pic, it's easy to point out whether or not it's in properly.
thanks pmohr after a lil more research after the last post i seen where someone had to remove there strut to get a straight shot into the diff. i did that and she is seated. last time i thought i had it right but after looking once i got this one in, i see that i didnt have it right last time. bout to take a test run right after i post this. BRB
Advise to the next person having trouble seating your Driver axle.... REMOVE THE STRUT.
Advise to the next person having trouble seating your Driver axle.... REMOVE THE STRUT.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
boomerbrian
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
6
Oct 31, 2018 10:25 AM
RealityCheck
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
7
Oct 2, 2015 06:34 PM
The Wizard
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
24
Oct 1, 2015 08:47 PM




