Hi, I found a 99 max for sale and I'm going to look at it tomorrow. Are there any "known" problems with the 4th gen? What should I look out for?


It's got 60k miles asking $5k at a stealership. I'm also going to search the net for more info. Thanks.

 

Found the radiator support issue. That's a scary pita.

 

#1 is def COIL PACKS

#2 is immobilizer


there are a handful of others, but none as common as the two above.


personally i would try to stay away from 99s. on top of these issues, they are also harder to DIY due to extraneous emissions equipment.

 

 

when you put the key in the ignition, turn the key to "on", but don't start the engine. the dash lights will go on (Check engine, battery, brake, etc). ***Make sure the check engine light is on. If it is not, than the bulb is broken and there may be codes stored***
also check for any ghost codes

 

pre cats are located in the headers so when you go to switch out the y-pipe you don't see the gains that the other years will see. You need to get the header combo from cattman to see a noticeable gain in performance.

Also, side airbags can be wonky.
But yeah, coils and the immobilizer. Ask about those for sure.
Good luck.

 

I bought a 99 a few months ago and didnt really know what to look for. After having the car I found that the front calipers were sticking, the drivers side axle seal was leaking ( the dude cleaned it when I came to get it because I didnt see any fluid upon first inspection). The hood struts were bad. I didnt even pay attention to him holding the hood the entire time lmao. I also had both bad axles. Besides those small things I absolutely love the car. I bought it with 160000 miles on it. The engine is strong, I get about 380 miles to a tank which is pretty descent in my opinion, and the car is very very reliable so far. My radiator support bracket is great lol considering what I have seen with others. I paid $2500 for mine. Sterling Mist SE with black leather interior (mint) and a 5 speed...

 

How do you check for ghost codes?........I'm having some problems with my 98 Max Se, this info will be helpful for my mechanic too figure out the issue.

Kevin

 

Just check the codes with a scanner or via the ECU diagnostics screw, you'll see any codes that are set.

 

the main ghost code is knock sensor...i think. But yeah, coilpacks are said to be the **** with the 99's.

 

How do you check for ghost codes?........I'm having some problems with my 98 Max Se, this info will be helpful for my mechanic too figure out the issue.

Kevin

 

COILPACKS the 99 packs are garbage

 

I looked at it today but the place was closed. The rad support looked fine. It's got some cosmetic damage. Whoever drove it parked by banging into stuff. It's not a show car but ok for a daily driver. I'm just looking for a comfy daily driver. There's also a 03 wolfsburg 1.8T jetta and a 99 S70 awd. I don't know which to choose. I like all the cars. They are all automatic and I know a little about vw's so the auto on that one scares me because I've heard people complain about them. I don't know anything about the max or the s70. Whats up with the immobilizer? I don't have any scanners so I'll be doing visual inspections.

 

test drive it, see if you like. look for issues. does it feel like its missing, stuff like that

 

The 99's have a vechile immobilizer chip in the key. Pray you never loose that key.

 

Stay away from the Jetta, they have a horrible track record when it comes to transmission problems, (really expensive to fix). The Volvo would be a good choice but finding someone other than the dealer to work on them might be tough if you live in a rural area. Otherwise they are great cars and will drive for a ton of miles with just routine maintenance.

The 99 Max's IMO have too many problems; (coil packs, immobilizer key issues). I personally think the 97 SE Max (5 speed and Super Black, of course) was the best yr for the 4th Gens.

If you can afford it why not throw together another $2k or $3k dollars and buy a Y2K Max? You can most certainly pick one up for $7 or $8k dollars, it may have high miles but these cars (just like the Volvo) need just a little routine maintenance and they will drive forever.

Check Ebay, Carmax, cars.com, Autotrader.com, you will certainly find a good deal at one of those sites, especially now when people are practically giving away good cars.

 

look out for a crimson blaze. then jump on that shiz.

 

volvo is made by ford and VW is high maintenance garbage.

stick with nissan, toyota or honda

 

well said^

 

I'll go look at it monday. I'll look for the check engine light. When the coils go out, do all need to be swapped? Can I replace them myself? Would I be able to buy an obdII cable online and download software to check the codes in the future myself? Does the immobilizer just decide to quit out of nowhere? I read that if you put the wrong key in or have a mobil speed pas that can cause it to shut the car down. From what I saw when I looked at it from the outside, it has small dents, missing RR door molding, FR lights were not oem, leather needs a wipe to get the coffee off and the carpet needs a wash. BTW I bought new KYB GR-2 Struts for my 94 max before I had to get rid of it and I was wondering if they would fit this car?

 

They don't need to all be swapped at once, but that's the best way to go; they'll all fail at some point. Yes, it's easy to do, just 2 8mm head bolts and an electrical connector per coil.

You can check the codes without a code reader or scanner, just use the screw on the ECU.

The NATS system seems to fail at randomly sometimes, seen quite a few reports of it on the forums. Not related to wrong keys or active RFID systems like EZPass or such.

Personally I think that a '99 is the wrong way to go if you're looking for a 4th gen, but that's just me

 

I agree. Stay away from the VW and the Volvo. Consumer Reports backs up what the other members are telling you. If these guys are saying the 99 is a year to avoid, I'd take their word for it.
If the Max looks beat up on the outside, chances are it wasn't taken care of on the inside either. Are you willing to take a chance on someone else blowing off maintenance on the engine? Transmission? I'd shop elsewhere and find something better. It's a buyer's market out there.

 

Don't know what your location is, but I know of a great 5.5 6 speed that's looking for a new home, only $5500...

http://forums.maxima.org/maximas-sal...-maryland.html

 

I'm in north new jersey.

 

Only a ~4 hour drive

 

Thanks but I'm not looking for a project car. I'm looking for a comfy daily driver. I have a truck that needs to be fixed which is why I'm getting this.

 

o2 sensors, coil packs and with all 3 of my maxes i have had to change the alternator and starter. but make sure it is fed spec. i have a 99 now and dont run into the probs that the others were stating about emition problems due to the fed spec

-Jared

 

I have a 1999 Maxima (09/1998) with 205,000 miles on it. The coils just started going bad. So far It's had one alternater, less then 10k miles ago the 10 year old orginal nissan battery got replaced with an optima redtop, five front brake jobs, two rear brake jobs, three sets of tires, 2nd set of NGK iridums. Every spring it gets a new fuel and air filter, the brake fluid gets completely flushed, along with the power steering fluid. Antifreeze has been changed three times, oil and filter get changed every six months, and just last week I put a new antenna mast on it. This car gets 28 miles per gallon and will still roast the front tires.

If the car runs good get it. Espically if it's cheap. For a car that only has one major known problem, that is down right hard to beat.

 

Do not buy this car if you hate looking at check engine lights./ SRS Lights.
Its pretty much a part of owning this car.
Also nothing too comfy about being stranded at the side of the road.

Up here in Toronto you couldnt sell a 4th maxima privately for 3000$ canadian $. 5000$ USD.. Thats a joke.
No one wants to pay anything for them. Yes the VQ is silky and smooth... but it isn't very smooth when it isn't running cause a sensor has gone bad.

I've regretfully owned two different 99s for 10 years now. I've experienced All the problems that people say are common. SRS, Immobilizer (2x), CoilPacks. EGR, CPS Check engine lights. ETC ETC. Input shaft bearings on the 5spd tranny.
Sporty luxury comes at a big price with these cars. Not worth it unless you practically steal the car.

My Two Cents.

 

Avoid the 99's with side airbags, coil packs can be dealt with. But those side airbags will turn against you and just start flashing for no reason.

I have only experienced 1 bad coil pack and im at 68,000 mi on my 99...

If your buying a low mileage 99 you should be just fine. Ironicly it's also a sterling mist. Good luck!

 

I need help with a powersteering question. Is there anything powersteering related that could leak/drip on the drivers side near the back of the engine bay? A hose perhaps? Sorry for the newb question but I couldn't find an answer. I'll keep searching.

 

The power steering lines connect to the rack right next to the steering shaft, so yes.

 

Ok, thanks. I saw a small drip and it was fresh. I thought it was the trans. They took it to a mechanic and told me it was a powersteering hose. They replaced it. I'm going to check it out again and drive it which I didn't do yet. The engine runs smooth and quiet though.

 

Be really careful. I don't know squat about 99's, but with all that the guys are telling you, you should beware. I noticed that everyone that likes theirs has also really taken care of theirs. As you said, if the outside is pretty beat up they probably also didn't do much maintenance.

Lastly, living in NJ you have all kinds of emmission issues. At inspection they check to see if the Check Engine light works. If it doesn't then then are required to plug it in and check for codes. If as the guys above state live with warning lights on then you may have issues getting it through inspection.

With that said if the price is incredibly cheap and the place that is selling it will get it inspected or inspect it for you and give you a 2 year sticker, then you know you can drive it no matter how many lights are on for 2 years.

I just spent the last 2 months looking for my Max on Craigslist and for about $6k you can get a 2000 with allot of mileage on it, but are clean. hard to find a standard though. Took me a long time.

If it was me, no way. For a reliable daily driver when you can't drive your truck, find a Civic, Sentra, or Toyota that will get you around reliably.

Good Luck

 

I would like to thank everyone who stopped by this thread. I learned about the issues these have real quick and that helped in the purchase. I bought the car. I think it's a SE model. It's the same color as my old max, a 94. It feels good to be back.

 

Congrats. Glad to hear the coilpacks stuff and immobilizer didn't scare you away. Odds are in your favor that you won't have these issues, especially since your max has such low mileage.

Enjoy your outside temperature display, as only 99's have it!!

If your gauge cluster is white, you got an SE. (Biggest indicator right there)

99's FTW!!

 

I have white guages but where is the exterior temp display? Sometimes while idling the idle drops for a split second. Then I got a check engine light when I tried high revs on the highway. My friend scaned and cleared it for me and it was a cyl 2 misfire. Hasn't come back. Also it hesitates sometimes but I only noticed it happen when I'm cruising maybe 40mph and it won't shift down when I press like half throttle instead just hesitate. I believe it to be a coil pack. Hope it's nothing more serious.

 

If you have ECC (electronic climate control) then you'll have outside temperature display. (Sorry, should have been more clear)

Check your spark plugs first, especially cyl #2 before you start replacing coilpacks. However, it does sound like a coilpack issue. Damn, even at 60k.

 

I do have the auto climate. Just wondering is that what that AMB button is for? The carfax shows it to be a 1owner and service record till 50k. Since I don't think the 60k service has been done I will slowly start doing it. It's freezing out there. I'll check the plug out though. OH btw I tried to get my keyless remote working because it had no battery. I put a battery in it and went to program it to the car but the remote doesn't work. I was using a thicker batt 2032 I believe so i put in a used 2025 maybe it will work. I also bent up all the tabs so they contact the batt as good as possible. But now my door key hole all door opening feature doesn't work. How do I make it open all the doors again when I turn it to the right twice?

 

AMB == Ambient temperature.