95max327

iTrader: (-1)

ok well i have been having this cold/hard start since i got it.. so far i have had a misfire to go along with it and this is what ive done.. i have replaced the coil pack on the cylinder 5 i believe? the one closest to the drivers door.. it was fine for about a day and then it started sounding like a subaru then it stopped then it sounded like a suby again and then it stopped.. then it did it 1 more time and it stayed doing it, so i replaced it again! and same exact results. i know it was the coil pack i replaced because i pulled the connector wire off it and it still sounded the same nothing changed. i replaced the cam sensor twice and today i replaced it again but the only difrence is it misfires up until 4 grand then it rips to 6.5 and runs normal... so i decided to make a video for you guys in hope to the solution. also while im trying to start the car my power antenna is going up and down at normal speed but it keeps doing it until the car is running. i also relocated the negitive and cleaned the spot i put it too still no luck.. next step is saturday im going to throw a 4 gauge from the bolt on the starter to the negitive terminal to ground the starter..


oh and there is no CEL on, and when i check it w/out the CEL being on it just gives me 2 codes, one being a misfire and one being the cam sensor. but both have been replaced and codes have been erased at time of repairs. i also do have a connection/circut tester if theres a way i can check the coil or the coil harness?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX-Z_sXtMbA

theres the video.. fortunatly the car did start on first attempt so i did shut it off and then i tried again and then it starting acting up.. i dont know how to check if its injectors or if it possibly jumped timing?



thanks in advance -Anthony

95max327

iTrader: (-1)

i found this.. can this be it!!


Hard starting: If the engine does not start on the first attempt, the engine may crank very slowly on the second attempt because of a problem with the engine-control computer. (1995)
Hard starting: Hard starting, stalling, or stumbling under load could be caused by corrosion of the coolant sensor. (1995-96)

95max327

iTrader: (-1)

all the new parts include.. new coil pack, cam sensor, plugs, fuel filter, pcv valve and oil filter and conventional oil. i bought it off a guy who replaced the starter and battery but the battery he put in there is small and is a used battery he bought from advance auto parts, i checked it out and it has like 675cca and it passed the test and it was checked out as a GOOD battery. but its small dementions estimated H/L/W 8/12/8 inches..

vqmaxman

I would check the battery termnials and clean them as I go. I would try starting It up after this and If It does not work,try having someone giving you a jump start and see If It clearly starts-up If it does you have a weak battery. If this still does not work try the fuel pump and the fuel injectors I am thinking you might be having problems with the fuel injectors or pump.

95max327

iTrader: (-1)

new terminals, clean, dielectric greased, clamped down good. have gotten jump started before as my batter was dead because of a draw on my power antenna.. and it still started like ^ the video shows

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

That's the first thing you should've done, ground the starter.

Have you seen the massive starting thread that covers your exact symptoms?

95max327

iTrader: (-1)

im going to ground the starter to the negitive terminal with 4ga from the starter bolt to the negitive right? yeah i have read up on it but i noticed its only a temporary solution, some people end up putting like 3 grounds off that and the bell housing. i need a long term fix, i cant be working on my car on the side of the road in a snow storm, i work & go to school

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

I didn't notice any 'temporary' fixes.

Ground the starter, that'll likely solve your problem.

95max327

iTrader: (-1)

ill give that a shot & let you guys know, if i ground my bellhousing i need to use a bolt that doesnt connect to the motor as well correct?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Doesn't matter. Just run a ground wire to one of the starter mounting bolts.

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

You need a new starter....even if you create a good ground, its probably too late already. I had that problem already.

When you have a new starter installed, make sure you run a new ground (Right to one of the bolts on the starter), and probably never have that issue ever again.

95max327

iTrader: (-1)

ok sounds good. ill let you guys know what happens and thanks very much for the help, you guys are awesome!

vqmaxman

If I remember right I thought I saw a check engine light on. Check the code than try checking out what's really wrong,right now any of the things listed here are possible.

fishforlife2007

this may sound a lil weird but my car was doin the same thing so i got a new timing chain kit, put it on....problem solved. as weird as that sounds, thats what i did, and with nothing else done. my car sounded as yours did.

95max327

iTrader: (-1)

now see, thats whats confusing me, i read alot of diffrent things for people to do, but i figured posting my car in action trying to start would be A1 for narrowing it down to the solution.. but its making it harder!! haha, anyways, im thinking maybe a timing issue as it just past 124K i just bought the car not even 500 miles ago for 1,000$ and it had a few problems but for the condition and price u couldnt beat it as i had a 96gxe before and i know there very reliable. im going to try the cheapest way out. im going to do the 4gauge wire from starter bolt to negitive. give it a turn, if same thing occurs im jumping straight to timing chain kit.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Just because you disconnected the coil and it kept misfiring doesn't mean it's the coil, it just means it's that cylinder.

If your timing is off, it'd run like crap all the time, not on and off like you say.

Also, just because it's high mileage has nothing to do with whether or not the timing is 'off'.

95max327

iTrader: (-1)

i know that, but i dont know why it sounds like it does when it starts.. the whole rrrrr ruuur ruuur rrrrr ruur rrrr i figured timing, but if its not the coil what else could it be? it smells of fuel once it starts and if i put a new coil in it runs fine until it frys the coil. i dont know if the coil needs to be grounded or if the wire harness running into the coil is pinched or has a bad connection, can i use a circut tester to check the wire harness for a dead spot?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Yes, you could check continuity on all of the wires while shaking the harness. There's a TSB out about broken wires where it runs near the right strut tower.

Well, it could be the injector or spark plug, for starters. Those are also key in having an operating cylinder. Could also be low compression, but unlikely.

The sound of it kicking back is common in starting issues, especially where the grounding for the starter needs some work.

95max327

iTrader: (-1)

yeah that does make sense, but i kinda figured if it jumped timing it may make the same hard kicking sound. but once its running besides the misfire it runs good!

95max327

iTrader: (-1)

well, you guys done it again, you saved a maxima!! it starts up awesome now!! while i was working on it i decided to check the CEL cause it did come on today. it gave me 2 P codes. one being P0305 which is a misfire on cyl 5 (which i knew) and then a P1320 which is a malfunction either ignition or misfire (once again its the misfire) so now step 2 to completely fixing the max is finding out whats causing me to have this misfire and how to fix it! what is this P1320 all about i read up on it and i saw people have had this code a few times and it was something with low compression..

Dave Holmes

Both of those codes may still be left overs from the whole starter and possible previous coil issues. Since you know what they are, clear the codes, drive it, and pull the codes again. If they return, start troubleshooting the misfire on cylinder #5. Check the coil's and injector's resistance (it's in the FSM, and possibly the Haynes). Check the plug. Also check the wiring to the coil and injector (including their ground). For the wiring, there is a TSB concerning it somewhere. In essence, the wires can get a short inside the wire harness. You can also check compression, but I would hope that with only 124,000 miles you don't have a compression issue (could happen, but I would think there is probably some other issue). But start with the easiest/cheapest first, and work your way up the scale. There are links to an electronic FSM in pmohr's sig. You can get the coil/injector test procedure and specs there.

pmohr-good call on the starter issue.

Dave

95jr6708

I watched the video and based off that, i had the same problem and it turned out to be the ignition switch...

Dave Holmes

95jr6708 has a good point about the ignition switch. The antenna going up and down makes me wonder. The ignition switch could definitely account for that along with the other symptoms. I would be looking at the switch if the problem persists (especially if the antenna keeps acting up).

Dave

95max327

iTrader: (-1)

you guys are awesome! im going to buy that part next and give it a shot w/ out the ground on the batt and w/ it on the batt. see the diffrence i get if any