Shifter Bushing Install
02-21-2009, 07:50 AM
#1
Shifter Bushing Install
Everyone makes this install out to be so easy, so I'm looking to anyone who's done it before to offer a little advice in the form of tips, which specific tools to use, etc. Last time I attempted I simply didn't have the room to get any leverage on the center bolt that connects the linkage to the bushing, so that's really my problem. I had the heat shield off, but the exhaust still in place. Is there a tricky way to do this with the exhaust still on?
02-21-2009, 09:42 AM
#2
Everyone makes this install out to be so easy, so I'm looking to anyone who's done it before to offer a little advice in the form of tips, which specific tools to use, etc. Last time I attempted I simply didn't have the room to get any leverage on the center bolt that connects the linkage to the bushing, so that's really my problem. I had the heat shield off, but the exhaust still in place. Is there a tricky way to do this with the exhaust still on?
Oh well, I guess I will get it one way or another.
02-21-2009, 01:36 PM
#5
Hmm..
I know what you are talking about...I had some troubles too.
I just used a longer socket wrench and some extensions WITHOUT removing the exhaust section blocking the bushing. Of course, I threaded the bolt by hand first, then used the long wrench to tighten it down. Seemed to work for me!
I wish I could remember how I did it exactly, but again, it can be done WITHOUT removing the exhaust!
I know what you are talking about...I had some troubles too.
I just used a longer socket wrench and some extensions WITHOUT removing the exhaust section blocking the bushing. Of course, I threaded the bolt by hand first, then used the long wrench to tighten it down. Seemed to work for me!
I wish I could remember how I did it exactly, but again, it can be done WITHOUT removing the exhaust!
03-05-2009, 10:15 AM
#8
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 5
i need to replace my shifter stabilizer bushing i took it all apart but the bushing is attached on both ends with just a flat piece of metal no nuts nothreads as far as i can see and im stuck can anyone help me get this bushing off
03-05-2009, 10:32 AM
#9
There are two studs that come down on either side of the bushing bracket, with nuts on them. There's also the center bolt that goes through the bushing.
03-05-2009, 07:57 PM
#10
I tried without removing the cat, it makes it so much easier to just remove the damn thing.
IMO, depending on the condition of the gaskets, you can always re-use them. We've done it before when customers are to cheap *** to buy new gaskets, put some of that red high temp RTV on eitehr side of the gasket and tighten it down. Just make sure the mating surfaces are clean prior to installation.
About the shifter bushing install, it was so long ago, but there are two nuts that hold the shifter bushing to the chassis, but take off the center bolt that goes thru the bushing first. Its either a 12 or 14mm, use penetrating fluid on them, as they tend to get rusty lol.
IMO, depending on the condition of the gaskets, you can always re-use them. We've done it before when customers are to cheap *** to buy new gaskets, put some of that red high temp RTV on eitehr side of the gasket and tighten it down. Just make sure the mating surfaces are clean prior to installation.
About the shifter bushing install, it was so long ago, but there are two nuts that hold the shifter bushing to the chassis, but take off the center bolt that goes thru the bushing first. Its either a 12 or 14mm, use penetrating fluid on them, as they tend to get rusty lol.
03-06-2009, 06:30 AM
#11
Getting all 3 nuts/bolts seems like it would be easy enough, it's just a matter of having the proper room to torque that center bolt. There's simply no room to move a wrench of any kind with the cat in place, and the spring that attaches to one of the linkages (return spring? recentering spring? whatever you want to call it) that also makes it difficult because it severely limits how far I can have something sticking out from the bolt. I tried unhooking the spring but it's pretty tight and given the lack of space, it looks like you would have to unbolt the linkage it's on to get the spring off...
Regardless this is getting done. Maybe next week when I'm off break and have the money for gaskets?
Regardless this is getting done. Maybe next week when I'm off break and have the money for gaskets?
03-06-2009, 08:06 AM
#12
Yeah its best just to remove the cat.
If its a big issue with rust, take it to a muffler shop slip them a 20 and get them to replace the two nuts and bolts holding the cat to the y-pipe/b-pipe. That way its simple to remove/put back in.
The shifter bushing makes the shifter feel much tighter and not like a piece of rubber. When i did my sts + poly bushing it was night and day!
If its a big issue with rust, take it to a muffler shop slip them a 20 and get them to replace the two nuts and bolts holding the cat to the y-pipe/b-pipe. That way its simple to remove/put back in.
The shifter bushing makes the shifter feel much tighter and not like a piece of rubber. When i did my sts + poly bushing it was night and day!
03-21-2009, 12:16 PM
#13
how to remove 2 side bracket nuts?
My center bolt snapped easy enough but what's the trick to removing the side bolts holding the bracket? The nuts and bolts are rusted and spinning together. I got maybe 1/4" of vertical play so far but I can't seem to get a hold of the top part that sits on the plate to stop it from spinning.
Turns out those bolts are flanged at the top beneath the plate. I wound up Dremmel cutting them in half from underneath then sawed/chewed up the tops enough to get them to drop through the plate. New bushings in - feels a little firmer but not a huge improvement. I knew I waited 3 years to install for a reason.
Turns out those bolts are flanged at the top beneath the plate. I wound up Dremmel cutting them in half from underneath then sawed/chewed up the tops enough to get them to drop through the plate. New bushings in - feels a little firmer but not a huge improvement. I knew I waited 3 years to install for a reason.
Last edited by BEJAY1; 03-21-2009 at 04:53 PM.
03-21-2009, 12:21 PM
#14
My center bolt snapped easy enough but what's the trick to removing the side bolts holding the bracket? The nuts and bolts are rusted and spinning together. I got maybe 1/4" of vertical play so far but I can't seem to get a hold of the top part that sits on the plate to stop it from spinning.
Best you can do is tack the studs in place, or try to use vice grips. If that doesn't work, drill out the head of the stud and replace it with a nut and bolt.
03-21-2009, 01:19 PM
#15
Where can I get one of these shifter bushings everyone talks about? I've called the dealer and they're trying to sell me some rods as well. I'm assuming this bushing improves shifting?
03-21-2009, 01:23 PM
#16
For stock:
34560-70N00, $18.52 at Courtesy
I got the shifter bushing and return spring from Dave B for ~$30 shipped or so.
For poly filled:
http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...-bushings.html
It'll only improve shifting if your current one is torn up. If it's stock, it probably is.
03-21-2009, 02:18 PM
#17
Do you want stock or a poly filled bushing?
For stock:
34560-70N00, $18.52 at Courtesy
I got the shifter bushing and return spring from Dave B for ~$30 shipped or so.
For poly filled:
http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...-bushings.html
It'll only improve shifting if your current one is torn up. If it's stock, it probably is.
For stock:
34560-70N00, $18.52 at Courtesy
I got the shifter bushing and return spring from Dave B for ~$30 shipped or so.
For poly filled:
http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...-bushings.html
It'll only improve shifting if your current one is torn up. If it's stock, it probably is.
03-21-2009, 02:23 PM
#18
That and the filled bushing will probably last longer, but it's all up to you.
03-21-2009, 02:36 PM
#20
Well, if they end up feeling the same as for shifting except longer durability from one then I can probably just pick that part up at my local dealer assuming the price is not twice of courtesy's. I just dont feel like having to send the core back lol
03-29-2009, 11:59 AM
#23
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 237
I drilled a hole in the top of the studs, pounded a old flat head screw driver in it, clamped the screw driver with vice grips, had friend hold it and went under the car, cranked on bolts till studs snapped. Then i put new bolts and a new mount. I did this with out removing the converter, but did remove the heat shield and i installed a short shifter at the same time.
07-11-2009, 05:34 PM
#24
Just got my shifter bushing and recentering spring from Courtesy (finally! waited 2 weeks for the damn things) I'm about to install these biznatches. My car doesnt have a cat, just a pipe and the studs seem to not be there rather just regular nuts and bolts so I hope this goes easy! I'd make a How to but the woman has the camera. I'll let pmohr tackle this How-to once again
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Violator
4th Generation Classifieds (1995-1999)
1
09-09-2015 10:14 AM