Replacing Idler Pulley
11-19-2001 | 01:43 PM
#1
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Posts: 467
Replacing Idler Pulley
I need to replace belts and hoses on my Maxima and was wondering if I should go ahead and replace the idler pulley while I have everything apart. I'm assuming the answer is YES, but would appreciate any help from the forum. Any tricks or things I need to be aware of before I start?
11-19-2001 | 02:02 PM
#2
Are you talking about the OEM one? or separate idler pulley for the SuperCharger?
If you don't have a Supercharger or the old version Supercharger pulley, you won't need to replace anything.
If you don't have a Supercharger or the old version Supercharger pulley, you won't need to replace anything.
11-20-2001 | 05:34 AM
#4
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Posts: 467
Sorry for not being clear. I plan to replace the belts on a STOCK (no underdrive pulleys or supercharger) Maxima and was wanting opinions on whether to go ahead and replace the idler pulley while I'm in there. My assumption is to go ahead, but just needed to know if I should expect it to be an easy or horrific job. Any "tricks" that I need to know before I start the "surgery"?
Originally posted by Chunger
Are you talking about the OEM one? or separate idler pulley for the SuperCharger?
If you don't have a Supercharger or the old version Supercharger pulley, you won't need to replace anything.
Are you talking about the OEM one? or separate idler pulley for the SuperCharger?
If you don't have a Supercharger or the old version Supercharger pulley, you won't need to replace anything.
11-20-2001 | 06:15 AM
#5
Originally posted by goldmax
Sorry for not being clear. I plan to replace the belts on a STOCK (no underdrive pulleys or supercharger) Maxima and was wanting opinions on whether to go ahead and replace the idler pulley while I'm in there. My assumption is to go ahead, but just needed to know if I should expect it to be an easy or horrific job. Any "tricks" that I need to know before I start the "surgery"?
Sorry for not being clear. I plan to replace the belts on a STOCK (no underdrive pulleys or supercharger) Maxima and was wanting opinions on whether to go ahead and replace the idler pulley while I'm in there. My assumption is to go ahead, but just needed to know if I should expect it to be an easy or horrific job. Any "tricks" that I need to know before I start the "surgery"?
-There are three bolts/screws holding the metal bracket with the pully in it to the timing chain cover. Remove these.
That's it! The pully will come out with this bracket and replacing it is a piece of cake. Just undo the nut in the center of the pully, tighten the tensioner nut all the way (this will cause the idle pully to lower, and eventually come off the tensioner nut) and pull it all out.
Replacing it cost me $54 for the kit, which includes the pully, all the washers and spacers, the nut for the center, the tensioner bolt and tensioner nut.
I would just go ahead and do it...when I first replaced the belts the tensioner nut and bolt locked up and snapped...leaving me without a car for 2 days.
11-21-2001 | 09:22 PM
#6
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I wouldn't bother with it. It should outlast the belts by a couple hundred thousand miles. Courtesy Nissan sells them for about $50. But It shouldn't be needed unless you adjust the belt tension frequently. Also, the only bolt that neesds to come off is the one holding the pulley on the bolt that it spins. The other three don't need to be removed.
11-26-2001 | 08:22 AM
#7
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 467
Thanks! I replace the belts, tensioner, and hoses over the weekend. Getting to that back belt was a real pain!
Originally posted by ejj5875
Replacing the Idle pully is an easy job. With all the belts off there car here's what's involved:
-There are three bolts/screws holding the metal bracket with the pully in it to the timing chain cover. Remove these.
That's it! The pully will come out with this bracket and replacing it is a piece of cake. Just undo the nut in the center of the pully, tighten the tensioner nut all the way (this will cause the idle pully to lower, and eventually come off the tensioner nut) and pull it all out.
Replacing it cost me $54 for the kit, which includes the pully, all the washers and spacers, the nut for the center, the tensioner bolt and tensioner nut.
I would just go ahead and do it...when I first replaced the belts the tensioner nut and bolt locked up and snapped...leaving me without a car for 2 days.
Replacing the Idle pully is an easy job. With all the belts off there car here's what's involved:
-There are three bolts/screws holding the metal bracket with the pully in it to the timing chain cover. Remove these.
That's it! The pully will come out with this bracket and replacing it is a piece of cake. Just undo the nut in the center of the pully, tighten the tensioner nut all the way (this will cause the idle pully to lower, and eventually come off the tensioner nut) and pull it all out.
Replacing it cost me $54 for the kit, which includes the pully, all the washers and spacers, the nut for the center, the tensioner bolt and tensioner nut.
I would just go ahead and do it...when I first replaced the belts the tensioner nut and bolt locked up and snapped...leaving me without a car for 2 days.
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