RPM Bounce. Annoying as all hell. Tried a lot.
RPM Bounce. Annoying as all hell. Tried a lot.
ok, So if you don't know what that is. IT is basically going into Neutral from say 3k or so and getting ready to stop and the RPMs drop below 200RPM. Not 2k. 300!. My whole system dims to **** and it sucks bad. It seems to do a lot harder when I hit the breaks. I have cleaned IACV, Throttle body, new Fuel Filter and adjusted it too be at idle of 600RPM. It idles fine. IT runs fine, but when I am shifting into Neutral or even when I down shift it just drops way too fast, but I care more for the dropping below 300rpm issue.
Do you think if I adjusted the throttle body it will not do this? I don't know anything else that would fix it.
Do you think if I adjusted the throttle body it will not do this? I don't know anything else that would fix it.
Is it always at 300RPM or does it dip down to 300 when you put the clutch in then bounce back up to 700-800?
If that is the case that is a sign of a dirty IACV and throttlebody. Once you clean both that issue should be resolved.
If that is the case that is a sign of a dirty IACV and throttlebody. Once you clean both that issue should be resolved.
Bounces back up to 600. SO it will bounce down like it is dying and then back up to idle as if it "recovered" it.
Alternator is putting out 14.6v already but it does seem to lack in amps. Maybe, I need to get it checked out. I've had the same batt for years and I have a bumping system, but the battery has never failed on me.
Alternator is putting out 14.6v already but it does seem to lack in amps. Maybe, I need to get it checked out. I've had the same batt for years and I have a bumping system, but the battery has never failed on me.
I have a related (I think) question...I just had my fuel pump, strainer, and filter replaced, but since then, it seems like my car is vibrating more when idling than it did before. Also, when I shift from Drive to Park or Neutral, the RPMs increase. In Drive, it sits pretty consistently around 600 RPM, but then if I shift to Drive or Neutral, it jumps right up to 800ish, and then drifts between 900ish and 600ish.
Dirty IACV/throttle body, perhaps?
Dirty IACV/throttle body, perhaps?
I have a related (I think) question...I just had my fuel pump, strainer, and filter replaced, but since then, it seems like my car is vibrating more when idling than it did before. Also, when I shift from Drive to Park or Neutral, the RPMs increase. In Drive, it sits pretty consistently around 600 RPM, but then if I shift to Drive or Neutral, it jumps right up to 800ish, and then drifts between 900ish and 600ish.
Dirty IACV/throttle body, perhaps?
Dirty IACV/throttle body, perhaps?
Sparkplugs were just replaced in November...so while it's possible that one went bad, I'd say it's unlikely. Since I can't spend $240ish to replace all my coils right now, can you suggest a way to find the culprit, if that's the issue?
I take it you don't feel that we have the same problem?
I take it you don't feel that we have the same problem?
What brand? You could also have 1 bad coil. That is all it takes. Do a ohm test. with a DMM. Instructions for that are online. And no, I think we have different issues. I plan on changing my sparkplugs soon too NGK.
I have NGK plugs. I'll check the coils soon, and start my own thread if that doesn't seem to be the issue, so I can stop hijacking yours.
From the sound of it, I highly recommend cleaning the throttle body and IACV. Completely take apart and unscrew all the parts of the IACV too, simply shooting carb cleaner into it doesn't do the job well enough.
I know there is a fairly thick hose that goes from the IACV to the intake downstream of the MAF. I have a cold air intake kit that tosses everything but the MAF sensor and when connecting this hose it was at a different angle and it crimped it. I experienced the same problem because the IACV wasn't able to draw in enough air. Have you checked this hose?
I know there is a fairly thick hose that goes from the IACV to the intake downstream of the MAF. I have a cold air intake kit that tosses everything but the MAF sensor and when connecting this hose it was at a different angle and it crimped it. I experienced the same problem because the IACV wasn't able to draw in enough air. Have you checked this hose?
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