99 SEL Won't Crank - Battery Fine
99 SEL Won't Crank - Battery Fine
Hey all, I need some help with my 99 SE L Maxima 160,000 miles.
It's been running fine, but yesterday the starter won't crank when I turn the key. Nothing. The accessories turn on, the key fob still can lock and unlock the doors, the dash lights don't dim. The security light is flashing (not solid red). I've tried the procedure in the manual (5s on, 5s off, repeat, start) and from the dealer (10s on, 30s off, repeat, start) to start a car when your chip in the key is scrambled and neither worked. I tried jumping the car and got exactly the same results. I tried starting the car with the backup key and same problem. One last wierd thing, I can still turn the wheel, so the wheel lock seems to be disengaged.
The car has two pre-existing conditions. The first is that something in the steering column has been clanking when I turn the wheel more than 90 degrees. Second, when it's cold outside, the steering wheel has a pulsing hesitancy when I turn it for the first time. (This goes away immediately after the car has warmed up.)
Any ideas on what's going on?
It's been running fine, but yesterday the starter won't crank when I turn the key. Nothing. The accessories turn on, the key fob still can lock and unlock the doors, the dash lights don't dim. The security light is flashing (not solid red). I've tried the procedure in the manual (5s on, 5s off, repeat, start) and from the dealer (10s on, 30s off, repeat, start) to start a car when your chip in the key is scrambled and neither worked. I tried jumping the car and got exactly the same results. I tried starting the car with the backup key and same problem. One last wierd thing, I can still turn the wheel, so the wheel lock seems to be disengaged.
The car has two pre-existing conditions. The first is that something in the steering column has been clanking when I turn the wheel more than 90 degrees. Second, when it's cold outside, the steering wheel has a pulsing hesitancy when I turn it for the first time. (This goes away immediately after the car has warmed up.)
Any ideas on what's going on?
Could be a dead starter. That would be my guess, pretty easy to change. Could also be your ignition switch.
As for the pulsing in the PS, I had the same problem when it was cold, during my swap I replaced the pump and bled the system. I don't think my pump was really bad after switching it out. You might want to try bleeding your PS system, see if that helps. Mines fine now.
As for the pulsing in the PS, I had the same problem when it was cold, during my swap I replaced the pump and bled the system. I don't think my pump was really bad after switching it out. You might want to try bleeding your PS system, see if that helps. Mines fine now.
Have you tried bypassing the clutch switch (5MT) or starting in any other gear position (4AT)?
Tried banging on the solenoid with something while trying to crank it?
Done any work to the car recently?
Tried banging on the solenoid with something while trying to crank it?
Done any work to the car recently?
-The last work done on this car was a power steering flush about six months ago. (That might be why I'm having the steering wheel sticking issue when the car is cold. I'll try bleeding the PS lines.)
-Sorry, I forgot to say that the car has an automatic transmission.
-Would the starter go out without any signs beforehand? I really haven't seen any promlems with the car starting before this. How would I check if I have a bad starter?
-The security system is stock. I've tried starting the engine with both sets of keys.
-No I haven't tried hitting the solenoid while starting it. I'll give that a shot this afternoon.
-I can check through all of the fuses in the dash this afternoon as well.
-Sorry, I forgot to say that the car has an automatic transmission.
-Would the starter go out without any signs beforehand? I really haven't seen any promlems with the car starting before this. How would I check if I have a bad starter?
-The security system is stock. I've tried starting the engine with both sets of keys.
-No I haven't tried hitting the solenoid while starting it. I'll give that a shot this afternoon.
-I can check through all of the fuses in the dash this afternoon as well.
-The last work done on this car was a power steering flush about six months ago. (That might be why I'm having the steering wheel sticking issue when the car is cold. I'll try bleeding the PS lines.)
-Sorry, I forgot to say that the car has an automatic transmission.
-Would the starter go out without any signs beforehand? I really haven't seen any promlems with the car starting before this. How would I check if I have a bad starter?
-The security system is stock. I've tried starting the engine with both sets of keys.
-No I haven't tried hitting the solenoid while starting it. I'll give that a shot this afternoon.
-I can check through all of the fuses in the dash this afternoon as well.
-Sorry, I forgot to say that the car has an automatic transmission.
-Would the starter go out without any signs beforehand? I really haven't seen any promlems with the car starting before this. How would I check if I have a bad starter?
-The security system is stock. I've tried starting the engine with both sets of keys.
-No I haven't tried hitting the solenoid while starting it. I'll give that a shot this afternoon.
-I can check through all of the fuses in the dash this afternoon as well.
Have you tried starting the car in anything other than Park or Neutral?
Is there any way to easily test the starter without pulling it out of the car? The car's in front of a restaurant right now. If it's just a bad starter, I'll have the car towed to my place and do that work myself. If it's something electrical or security related, then I'm probably having the car towed to the dealership.
No, I've only tried starting it in Park.
No, I've only tried starting it in Park.
Could well be an ignition switch problem. Not necessarily a bad switch, it could just be that it isn't making full contact. If you keep trying (maybe 10 or 15 times), does it eventually start? You might also take out the ignition switch and try to start it with a key or screwdriver in the switch itself. If it works, then you've got slop between the switch and the key flange. If it doesn't, try bridging the terminals. But it's likely to be slop. I think we replace a lot of ignition switches when we really don't have to.
Last edited by DBear; May 13, 2009 at 01:46 PM.
Is there any way to easily test the starter without pulling it out of the car? The car's in front of a restaurant right now. If it's just a bad starter, I'll have the car towed to my place and do that work myself. If it's something electrical or security related, then I'm probably having the car towed to the dealership.
No, I've only tried starting it in Park.
No, I've only tried starting it in Park.
Try starting in different gear ranges. Try hitting the solenoid while holding the key in ignition.
If the car won't crank, the only security related thing it would be is the stock alarm. It won't be a NATS issue.
Just jump the starter manually, and drive it home. Then it'll be a lot easier to do diagnostics.
Well, if you don't follow any of the suggestions here, we won't really know.
Try starting in different gear ranges. Try hitting the solenoid while holding the key in ignition.
If the car won't crank, the only security related thing it would be is the stock alarm. It won't be a NATS issue.
Just jump the starter manually, and drive it home. Then it'll be a lot easier to do diagnostics.
Try starting in different gear ranges. Try hitting the solenoid while holding the key in ignition.
If the car won't crank, the only security related thing it would be is the stock alarm. It won't be a NATS issue.
Just jump the starter manually, and drive it home. Then it'll be a lot easier to do diagnostics.
How do I jump the starter manually? I've done some searches on the forum, but I haven't found anything...
Oh, no, I plan to try all of the suggestions as soon as I can this afternoon. It's just that I'm at work and the car's 60 miles away right now. So far my list of things to try are: Check fuses, hit solenoid, start in neutral, try 15 times.
How do I jump the starter manually? I've done some searches on the forum, but I haven't found anything...
How do I jump the starter manually? I've done some searches on the forum, but I haven't found anything...
Ok, last night I tried starting the car 15 or 20 times with no change. Banging on the solenoid while starting the car didn't change anything. All of the fuses look good. Attempting to start the car in Neutral, Drive, 2, and 1 had the same results. 
I tried to jump the solenoid manually, but I couldn't quite figure out how to get to the solenoid with a wire from the positive battery terminal without removing the air intake assembly. Perhaps I still don't understand the process. Is there a way to get to the solenoid without removing the air intake? What exactly does 'give it B+' mean?
Thanks to every who has contributed suggestions so far. I appreciate the help.

I tried to jump the solenoid manually, but I couldn't quite figure out how to get to the solenoid with a wire from the positive battery terminal without removing the air intake assembly. Perhaps I still don't understand the process. Is there a way to get to the solenoid without removing the air intake? What exactly does 'give it B+' mean?
Thanks to every who has contributed suggestions so far. I appreciate the help.
Ok, last night I tried starting the car 15 or 20 times with no change. Banging on the solenoid while starting the car didn't change anything. All of the fuses look good. Attempting to start the car in Neutral, Drive, 2, and 1 had the same results. 
I tried to jump the solenoid manually, but I couldn't quite figure out how to get to the solenoid with a wire from the positive battery terminal without removing the air intake assembly. Perhaps I still don't understand the process. Is there a way to get to the solenoid without removing the air intake? What exactly does 'give it B+' mean?
Thanks to every who has contributed suggestions so far. I appreciate the help.

I tried to jump the solenoid manually, but I couldn't quite figure out how to get to the solenoid with a wire from the positive battery terminal without removing the air intake assembly. Perhaps I still don't understand the process. Is there a way to get to the solenoid without removing the air intake? What exactly does 'give it B+' mean?
Thanks to every who has contributed suggestions so far. I appreciate the help.
Give it B+ == Give it battery power.
No need to get to the solenoid itself, I'm talking about the lead that comes off of the starter. Granted I haven't worked on an A32 with a stock intake with a while, but you should be able to get to it.
The wire you see here:
It travels up right underneath the scoop, IIRC. That or around the resonator/MAF area. You can just take a wire from the positive terminal and touch it directly to the contact within that connector, and that'll engage the starter.
Based on your suggestions, I had the car towed to my house and replaced the starter. The wires between the solenoid and the starter motor were exposed, and the starter only worked intermittently when I had it tested. Replacing it with a new one only took 2 hours including travel time to and from the parts store. The car now starts up great every time.
This was officially my most successful do it yourself car repair, and I'd like to thank everyone for their suggestions and help. The final cost was less than a third of what I would have paid a local shop.
Thanks!!!
This was officially my most successful do it yourself car repair, and I'd like to thank everyone for their suggestions and help. The final cost was less than a third of what I would have paid a local shop.
Thanks!!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
markevans999
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
7
Sep 10, 2015 04:29 PM




