ECU Help
05-25-2009, 09:24 AM
#1
ECU Help
My car has been hesitating for awhile now so I went to chk for any codes
Turned the screw clock wise then turned on the key and nothing
Tried a diff ecu still nothing
Holding 35 PSI fuel press in park
95 SE Stock
Turned the screw clock wise then turned on the key and nothing
Tried a diff ecu still nothing
Holding 35 PSI fuel press in park
95 SE Stock
Last edited by Steve31; 05-25-2009 at 09:26 AM.
05-25-2009, 09:44 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 1,066
Are u wanting to check for codes? If so u need to turn the key on first then turn the screw clockwise wait a couple sec. then turn all the way back counter where it was first. Then your engine light will flash any stored codes.
05-25-2009, 10:37 AM
#4
You aren't performing the check procedure correctly.
If you follow the instructions properly, it'll work. Simple as that.
If that's too much for you, just go to Advance/Autozone/etc and have the codes pulled.
05-25-2009, 01:16 PM
#7
Have you even read the proper procedure to check codes? Sounds like you're just doing things randomly.
It's in the stickies: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...first-cel.html
From your 00VI thread (http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...00vi-swap.html) and this thread, I gather two things:
- You absolutely refuse to use the search function before asking a question.
- You absolutely refuse to read the stickies before asking a question.
If you can fix those two problems, you won't need to make new threads like these.
05-25-2009, 01:54 PM
#8
I was just lookin for info on the swap
Did not know about changing the link to pull up old topics (thanks for that)
On this I found the problem
The chk engine light bulb was blown lol
Came up with these codes after fixing that
03-04 knock sensor
04-07 Crank Position sensor (reference) -----Not sure what this means
10-05 EGR Solenoid Valve
Sigh* Looks like spending more money lol
Did not know about changing the link to pull up old topics (thanks for that)
On this I found the problem
The chk engine light bulb was blown lol
Came up with these codes after fixing that
03-04 knock sensor
04-07 Crank Position sensor (reference) -----Not sure what this means
10-05 EGR Solenoid Valve
Sigh* Looks like spending more money lol
05-25-2009, 02:02 PM
#13
05-25-2009, 02:24 PM
#14
I pluged up my scanner and it did not power on
All fuses are good cep the airbag its no big deal now I got what I wanted lol
I guess all 3 of those codes would result in some kinda power loose ?
All fuses are good cep the airbag its no big deal now I got what I wanted lol
I guess all 3 of those codes would result in some kinda power loose ?
05-25-2009, 02:39 PM
#15
Check for power at the connector, see if it was just your scanner.
05-25-2009, 02:51 PM
#16
No all the bad sensors would cause the engine to loose a bit of power right?
The scanner works I chk it on my wifes malibu
I got the codes now thats all I realy wanted realy don't bother me about the connector not working
The scanner works I chk it on my wifes malibu
I got the codes now thats all I realy wanted realy don't bother me about the connector not working
05-25-2009, 03:12 PM
#17
The KS can cause some issues in and of itself, but I wouldn't worry about that code until everything else is fixed.
The EGR SV won't cause a power loss unless it's sticking the EGR open at all times.
05-25-2009, 03:17 PM
#18
It is hard to start at times
And getting worse
Also it is like when the rpm's get around 2800-3000 then it picks up like you hit it with a bit of nos or somthing
the EGR Soloniod is that the part on the intake just behind the TB ?
This part
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-97...lenotsupported
And getting worse
Also it is like when the rpm's get around 2800-3000 then it picks up like you hit it with a bit of nos or somthing
the EGR Soloniod is that the part on the intake just behind the TB ?
This part
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-97...lenotsupported
Last edited by Steve31; 05-25-2009 at 03:20 PM.
05-25-2009, 05:06 PM
#19
Yeah thats the bad knock sensor.
But like pmohr said i would do the ckps first. That will cause you to miss and have a rough start up. Id first start off by just inspecting the ckps. It could be as simple as its just covered in oil or has metal shavings on it.
For the ks there is a bypass that can be used until you can afford a sensor but you will have to Search for the answer to that one.
05-25-2009, 05:17 PM
#20
Like this 
470k ohm resistor
you must disconnect the KS sub-harness and install the resistor in the main harness upstream. If you examine the end of the sub-harness at the KS end, you will notice that there is only one terminal, despite two locations.
470k ohm resistor
you must disconnect the KS sub-harness and install the resistor in the main harness upstream. If you examine the end of the sub-harness at the KS end, you will notice that there is only one terminal, despite two locations.
05-25-2009, 05:22 PM
#21
Yeah thats the bad knock sensor.
But like pmohr said i would do the ckps first. That will cause you to miss and have a rough start up. Id first start off by just inspecting the ckps. It could be as simple as its just covered in oil or has metal shavings on it.
For the ks there is a bypass that can be used until you can afford a sensor but you will have to Search for the answer to that one.
But like pmohr said i would do the ckps first. That will cause you to miss and have a rough start up. Id first start off by just inspecting the ckps. It could be as simple as its just covered in oil or has metal shavings on it.
For the ks there is a bypass that can be used until you can afford a sensor but you will have to Search for the answer to that one.
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