My 5speed Tranny rebuilders... come chat with me...
#42
http://www.ride-this.com/index.php/a...1025mm-id.html
Check this out ... looks like it would work like a charm! Let's get other opinion's though to be safe. But ... then again, it's only $5 so ... how can you go wrong? lol
Check this out ... looks like it would work like a charm! Let's get other opinion's though to be safe. But ... then again, it's only $5 so ... how can you go wrong? lol
#43
I have yet to see anybody with a jawed puller that is low enough to directly grab any of the tapered roller bearings on this transmission. I use a large bearing splitter whenever possible.
If you don't have the equipment then make life easy on yourself. Take the diff and two driveshafts to a transmission shop and pay them $50 to remove them all. It's easy with the right tools and unlike the dremel you won't cover the parts with highly abrasive grinding junk. (as in: stuff that will live in your new gear oil and rapidly wear on your brand new bearings)
If you don't have the equipment then make life easy on yourself. Take the diff and two driveshafts to a transmission shop and pay them $50 to remove them all. It's easy with the right tools and unlike the dremel you won't cover the parts with highly abrasive grinding junk. (as in: stuff that will live in your new gear oil and rapidly wear on your brand new bearings)
#44
I have yet to see anybody with a jawed puller that is low enough to directly grab any of the tapered roller bearings on this transmission. I use a large bearing splitter whenever possible.
If you don't have the equipment then make life easy on yourself. Take the diff and two driveshafts to a transmission shop and pay them $50 to remove them all. It's easy with the right tools and unlike the dremel you won't cover the parts with highly abrasive grinding junk. (as in: stuff that will live in your new gear oil and rapidly wear on your brand new bearings)
If you don't have the equipment then make life easy on yourself. Take the diff and two driveshafts to a transmission shop and pay them $50 to remove them all. It's easy with the right tools and unlike the dremel you won't cover the parts with highly abrasive grinding junk. (as in: stuff that will live in your new gear oil and rapidly wear on your brand new bearings)
Like I said, um ... there's deff better ways to do it. lol
#45
I'll keep a transmission shop in mind. I'd like to get a good gear pulley and do it myself...actually ultimately I'd rather do everything myself, but of course if I need to take it to get pulled I will.
so there is no good gear pulley that could work in this situation?
so there is no good gear pulley that could work in this situation?
#46
Mdeezy, the tranny is simple...it should be straight forward once you take it apart.
#47
thanks chillin... I was going to pull it today but got a good deal on an apexi neo, and ended up buying pickles and now about to make hamburgers d'oh...
so Sunday is my next free day so I will pull and get everything ready. Just ordered my spec clutch, so it should be here by tuesday. I'll wire up my apexi same day I pull tranny
so Sunday is my next free day so I will pull and get everything ready. Just ordered my spec clutch, so it should be here by tuesday. I'll wire up my apexi same day I pull tranny
#48
you sound like me man....buying stuff in no particular order because you can't pass on a deal.
As far as that recessed bearing race...I had to make my own "puller". I welded a sharp triangular piece of metal on the end of a rod, wedged it down in there, and hammered it out. Of course I had to bend the other end of the rod so I would have something to hammer against. My biggest fear is that...some of my races didn't really need to be "pressed" in...they fell in fairly easily...so I worry the races might spin in their holes rather than the bearings spinning in THEM. anyway...good luck.
As far as that recessed bearing race...I had to make my own "puller". I welded a sharp triangular piece of metal on the end of a rod, wedged it down in there, and hammered it out. Of course I had to bend the other end of the rod so I would have something to hammer against. My biggest fear is that...some of my races didn't really need to be "pressed" in...they fell in fairly easily...so I worry the races might spin in their holes rather than the bearings spinning in THEM. anyway...good luck.
#49
we'll I had a vafc-II a while ago for VIAS activation but sold it when I lost my job a while back... I've been activationless for over a year...and its not fun having this motor and cant use the VIAS...I know I could have gotten the block off plate but I love my low end power... so I can across a killer deal on the apexi and I couldnt pass it up.
What I will probably do, is snap a lot of pics and post them up in here just to make sure what I'm looking at. Fortunately, I will toss on my extra tranny so I can take my time with the rebuild and get it done right.
#50
#56
ROFL !!!! Especially of that quality. LOL
MD - Yikes, and you were driving this car? WOW!!! You'll know what's good or bad when you open it up. How was the shifting aspect of it prior to it being pulled? You can vissually inspect the syncroz once it's open and you have the shafts out. Just remember to pull them together, they'll lift right out.
MD - Yikes, and you were driving this car? WOW!!! You'll know what's good or bad when you open it up. How was the shifting aspect of it prior to it being pulled? You can vissually inspect the syncroz once it's open and you have the shafts out. Just remember to pull them together, they'll lift right out.
#57
you didnt like the quality!? that was shot in 720p....but down graded by youtube...
JtzMax...I know..I was driving the car and surprisingly shifting was smooth and problem free, I knew death was immident a few days before when it got stuck between gear. coast into a parking spot but then was able to shift again, thursday mid day lost 1st gear (too noisy and too much vibrations and loud LOUD clunking), then sat night 2nd gear lost, at that point I couldnt shift into 2nd or 1st at all.
Thats a lot of play on the input shaft and my clutch has some meat left on it, but its soaked in greese so...I'm glad i have one on the way already. I'll clean everything up and get it nice a clean, RMS re-rtv'd up before everything bolts back on.
I'll take pics as soon as I get the case off...I'm dyin to see how bad it is in there
JtzMax...I know..I was driving the car and surprisingly shifting was smooth and problem free, I knew death was immident a few days before when it got stuck between gear. coast into a parking spot but then was able to shift again, thursday mid day lost 1st gear (too noisy and too much vibrations and loud LOUD clunking), then sat night 2nd gear lost, at that point I couldnt shift into 2nd or 1st at all.
Thats a lot of play on the input shaft and my clutch has some meat left on it, but its soaked in greese so...I'm glad i have one on the way already. I'll clean everything up and get it nice a clean, RMS re-rtv'd up before everything bolts back on.
I'll take pics as soon as I get the case off...I'm dyin to see how bad it is in there
#58
I just removed my tranny today as well. I figured as loud as my IPS bearings were I would have some play like yours did but there is absolutely nothing.... I'll be opening it up within the next day or two..maybe I'll take some pictures.
#59
wow good timing so did I...pulled from my extra max... took 54 minutes start to finish...not bad...finished 10 min ago
Funny thing...the dirtier tranny is the good one
But that one has Zero play on it in any direction, and its solid
Funny thing...the dirtier tranny is the good one
But that one has Zero play on it in any direction, and its solid
#60
so you're not putting in new bearings just swapping the whole units?
Get on it! Dropping a trans and putting another back in is a 90 minute job...
Get on it! Dropping a trans and putting another back in is a 90 minute job...
Last edited by DAVE Sz; 08-18-2009 at 08:23 PM.
#61
dont really have car to drive, I can get around but its tricky and not as fun...
#63
opened up my tranny today. The top IPS bearing is shot but the bottom one seems perfectly fine. Same scenario for my differential and MS bearings as well. I think the metal shavings just got to them, there is a bit of play in the bearings themselves and I cant remember how much they had brand new. I wish I had bought a rebuild kit.
I have an LSD differential and bellhousing I'm going to test fit (but probably not use).
I have an LSD differential and bellhousing I'm going to test fit (but probably not use).
#64
Very interesting thread!!!! Nice work to all of you guys rebuilding your trannys.
Anyone have a writeup or anything related to the 6 speed trans? Are the 5 speed and 6 speed similar?
Thanks!
Anyone have a writeup or anything related to the 6 speed trans? Are the 5 speed and 6 speed similar?
Thanks!
#65
I took a bunch of pics of 6spd internals next to 5spd internals back almost a year ago with the intent making a big post comparing and contrasting the two, but never got around to it. one of these days...
A 5spd writeup would not be the same as a 6spd write up in its details, but basically all FWD transmissions come apart in the same way with some detail differences.
The FSM does a fine job of describing how to take them apart. There are some shortcuts you can take from the FSM but you kindof have to figure them out on your own through trial and error.
#66
There are lots of design similarities between the two, if you know transmissions you can definitely tell that they are made by the same company. Reverse is done in an entirely different fashion however, reverse is actually a helical cut synchronized gear with a coupler sleeve just like all the other gears in the transmission, as opposed to the 5 spd which uses a more traditional style non synchronized spur gear design that physically engages or disengages with the input shaft.
I took a bunch of pics of 6spd internals next to 5spd internals back almost a year ago with the intent making a big post comparing and contrasting the two, but never got around to it. one of these days...
A 5spd writeup would not be the same as a 6spd write up in its details, but basically all FWD transmissions come apart in the same way with some detail differences.
The FSM does a fine job of describing how to take them apart. There are some shortcuts you can take from the FSM but you kindof have to figure them out on your own through trial and error.
I took a bunch of pics of 6spd internals next to 5spd internals back almost a year ago with the intent making a big post comparing and contrasting the two, but never got around to it. one of these days...
A 5spd writeup would not be the same as a 6spd write up in its details, but basically all FWD transmissions come apart in the same way with some detail differences.
The FSM does a fine job of describing how to take them apart. There are some shortcuts you can take from the FSM but you kindof have to figure them out on your own through trial and error.
Better be done by december. Thanks....
#67
In short, the 5 speed is set up with a different shaft configuration than a 6 speed and the 6 speed has bigger shafts and gears. That makes the 6 speed stronger but heavier and larger. The shifter is also actuated by a cable connection to the shifter, where on the 5 speed there is a direct shift rod mechanically joining the shifter to the striking rod.
The 6 speed is also less apt to puke on bearings at stock power levels. There were a few too many worn out 5 speeds out there than there should have been.
David
The 6 speed is also less apt to puke on bearings at stock power levels. There were a few too many worn out 5 speeds out there than there should have been.
David
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