KS...Is it REALLY worth replacing???
09-22-2009, 12:17 PM
#41
Nope, you don't want the car on when measuring resistance. Resistance should always be measured without voltage applied (... if you exclude the voltage applied from the Ohmmeter to correctly determine the test circuit's resistance, if you wanna get technical).
09-22-2009, 03:19 PM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
Had a scan done to clear up the check engine light, and was informed there is an "old" code for the knock sensor.
The mechanic then advised that perhaps it is only an old code that hasn't cleared and changing a KS is $300 for the sensor plus around 6 hours labor to get at it (its a ***** he said).
Since I changed from Canadian tire (crappy tire) gas to shell gas, my gas mileage is 26MPG city/hwy mixed (remember our imperial gallon is 20% bigger).
I have noticed that the 98 max is disappointingly underpowered though.
Now regarding possible replacement, $30-$50 for the unit from ebay, does sound encouraging, but is the mechanic snowing me about the 6 hours labor as the threads seem to indicate a relatively easy DIY replacement, though I have yet seen a How to here.
edit: ok found the How-to http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-tutorial.html
but on my max the KS is mired under the intake manifold
so I I have a dual cam.
Now just to remover the upper intake manifold to get at the sensor, is it only a matter of removing and labeling all the connectors ala Haines manual?
A long DIY project?
The mechanic then advised that perhaps it is only an old code that hasn't cleared and changing a KS is $300 for the sensor plus around 6 hours labor to get at it (its a ***** he said).
Since I changed from Canadian tire (crappy tire) gas to shell gas, my gas mileage is 26MPG city/hwy mixed (remember our imperial gallon is 20% bigger).
I have noticed that the 98 max is disappointingly underpowered though.
Now regarding possible replacement, $30-$50 for the unit from ebay, does sound encouraging, but is the mechanic snowing me about the 6 hours labor as the threads seem to indicate a relatively easy DIY replacement, though I have yet seen a How to here.
edit: ok found the How-to http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-tutorial.html
but on my max the KS is mired under the intake manifold
so I I have a dual cam.Now just to remover the upper intake manifold to get at the sensor, is it only a matter of removing and labeling all the connectors ala Haines manual?
A long DIY project?
Last edited by holymoly; 09-22-2009 at 03:47 PM.
09-22-2009, 03:25 PM
#43
Had a scan done to clear up the check engine light, and was informed there is an "old" code for the knock sensor.
The mechanic then advised that perhaps it is only an old code that hasn't cleared and changing a KS is $300 for the sensor plus around 6 hours labor to get at it (its a ***** he said).
Since I changed from Canadian tire (crappy tire) gas to shell gas, my gas mileage is 26MPG city/hwy mixed (remember our imperial gallon is 20% bigger).
I have noticed that the 98 max is disappointingly underpowered though.
Now regarding possible replacement, $30-$50 for the unit from ebay, does sound encouraging, but is the mechanic snowing me about the 6 hours labor as the threads seem to indicate a relatively easy DIY replacement, though I have yet seen a How to here.
The mechanic then advised that perhaps it is only an old code that hasn't cleared and changing a KS is $300 for the sensor plus around 6 hours labor to get at it (its a ***** he said).
Since I changed from Canadian tire (crappy tire) gas to shell gas, my gas mileage is 26MPG city/hwy mixed (remember our imperial gallon is 20% bigger).
I have noticed that the 98 max is disappointingly underpowered though.
Now regarding possible replacement, $30-$50 for the unit from ebay, does sound encouraging, but is the mechanic snowing me about the 6 hours labor as the threads seem to indicate a relatively easy DIY replacement, though I have yet seen a How to here.
Only 99 CA spec Maximas are a nightmare. Even then, it should only take 3-4 hours to do, not 6.
Changing the KS has been discussed (with pics) a gazillion times here, and recently too. SEARCH please.
09-22-2009, 03:49 PM
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
Since you have a 98, your mechanic is trying to make a fortune off of you. You can do it yourself in 30 minutes or less with basic tools.
Only 99 CA spec Maximas are a nightmare. Even then, it should only take 3-4 hours to do, not 6.
Changing the KS has been discussed (with pics) a gazillion times here, and recently too. SEARCH please.
Only 99 CA spec Maximas are a nightmare. Even then, it should only take 3-4 hours to do, not 6.
Changing the KS has been discussed (with pics) a gazillion times here, and recently too. SEARCH please.
but on my max the KS is mired under the intake manifold
so I I have a dual cam?Now just to remover the upper intake manifold to get at the sensor, is it only a matter of removing and labeling all the connectors ala Haines manual?
A long DIY project?
09-22-2009, 03:52 PM
#45
edit: ok found the How-to Easy Knock Sensor Installation! Picture Tutorial
but on my max the KS is mired under the intake manifold so I I have a dual cam?
Now just to remover the upper intake manifold to get at the sensor, is it only a matter of removing and labeling all the connectors ala Haines manual?
A long DIY project?
but on my max the KS is mired under the intake manifold
so I I have a dual cam?Now just to remover the upper intake manifold to get at the sensor, is it only a matter of removing and labeling all the connectors ala Haines manual?
A long DIY project?
Upper IM, then fuel rail, then lower IM to get to KS. Pretty much all the connectors are unique/certain length, so labeling them is not required (at least for me anyway)
09-22-2009, 03:56 PM
#46
Had a scan done to clear up the check engine light, and was informed there is an "old" code for the knock sensor.
The mechanic then advised that perhaps it is only an old code that hasn't cleared and changing a KS is $300 for the sensor plus around 6 hours labor to get at it (its a ***** he said).
Since I changed from Canadian tire (crappy tire) gas to shell gas, my gas mileage is 26MPG city/hwy mixed (remember our imperial gallon is 20% bigger).
I have noticed that the 98 max is disappointingly underpowered though.
Now regarding possible replacement, $30-$50 for the unit from ebay, does sound encouraging, but is the mechanic snowing me about the 6 hours labor as the threads seem to indicate a relatively easy DIY replacement, though I have yet seen a How to here.
edit: ok found the How-to http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-tutorial.html
but on my max the KS is mired under the intake manifold so I I have a dual cam.
Now just to remover the upper intake manifold to get at the sensor, is it only a matter of removing and labeling all the connectors ala Haines manual?
A long DIY project?
The mechanic then advised that perhaps it is only an old code that hasn't cleared and changing a KS is $300 for the sensor plus around 6 hours labor to get at it (its a ***** he said).
Since I changed from Canadian tire (crappy tire) gas to shell gas, my gas mileage is 26MPG city/hwy mixed (remember our imperial gallon is 20% bigger).
I have noticed that the 98 max is disappointingly underpowered though.
Now regarding possible replacement, $30-$50 for the unit from ebay, does sound encouraging, but is the mechanic snowing me about the 6 hours labor as the threads seem to indicate a relatively easy DIY replacement, though I have yet seen a How to here.
edit: ok found the How-to http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-tutorial.html
but on my max the KS is mired under the intake manifold
so I I have a dual cam.Now just to remover the upper intake manifold to get at the sensor, is it only a matter of removing and labeling all the connectors ala Haines manual?
A long DIY project?
If he's gonna charge 6 hours worth then he's A. Incompetent B. Money hungry C. Is trying to scare you from doing this yourself due to "intense" labor and hours so he can charge you. He's going by book time which suggest you pull everything out vs. being ingenius and using right tools to save time. Regarless book time should not be more than 2 hours for something so simple.
09-22-2009, 04:30 PM
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
Your Canadian Max must be different than US Maximas, cuz 98's should have the KS pretty accessible and within view. Piece of cake job.
Upper IM, then fuel rail, then lower IM to get to KS. Pretty much all the connectors are unique/certain length, so labeling them is not required (at least for me anyway)
Upper IM, then fuel rail, then lower IM to get to KS. Pretty much all the connectors are unique/certain length, so labeling them is not required (at least for me anyway)
09-22-2009, 04:32 PM
#49
Buy a Haynes for $8 off Amazon, or download the FSM for free. We can't possibly spell everything out for you. There are two brackets that you can't see behind the IM and are a real ***** w/o the right tools/patience. You'll need the FSM anyway to get the torque specs for when you put everything back together.
If you have any mechanical abilities, you'll be just fine. Otherwise, let someone else do it for you.
09-22-2009, 05:05 PM
#50
you could go the cheap and easy route and just put a resistor in there.............
But in all honesty some of the things on the manifold removal you will struggle with more then vs Just going from the side. Just a thought........................
But in all honesty some of the things on the manifold removal you will struggle with more then vs Just going from the side. Just a thought........................
09-22-2009, 05:14 PM
#51
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,380
alot of crap must be removed to reach that thingy....
09-22-2009, 05:15 PM
#52
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
If you reread I do have a Haines and it looks different in addition to the link I posted. So just unbolt the intake. You'll see accessing w/o unbolting is really difficult. And forget the 12mm wrench, those are screws.
It's a Haynes too BTW.
09-22-2009, 05:24 PM
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
Page 6-16 of Haynes manual, illustration 13.10
"On 95 and later models, the KS is located under the intake manifold"
and the pictures above, that's all that's visible under the manifold.
"On 95 and later models, the KS is located under the intake manifold"
and the pictures above, that's all that's visible under the manifold.
Last edited by holymoly; 09-22-2009 at 05:25 PM. Reason: ok its Haynes, not Haines
09-22-2009, 05:27 PM
#56
Clearly, you don't know what you are looking for. Look LOWER. Trust me, that's the fuel rail and one of the injectors in your pics.
09-22-2009, 05:28 PM
#57
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
ok. lower and to the side of intake?
np
then this is an easy fix, eventually will figure out.
$30 or so for new KS on ebay. A no-brainer to change
thanks
np
then this is an easy fix, eventually will figure out.
$30 or so for new KS on ebay. A no-brainer to change
thanks
Last edited by holymoly; 09-22-2009 at 05:31 PM.
09-22-2009, 05:36 PM
#58
09-22-2009, 06:51 PM
#61
Ok so here's the EGRC (which caused P1400) I took from the JY.
Making sure resistance is between 30-40 ohms, this one seems good at 33.6
See the green harness? thats where it goes held in by a 10mm
Vacuuming someone's Nest out.. (soo sorry but the car was mine first)
Holding old FPR above new to me FPS
Come to think about it, I didnt get many KS pics... I'm glad some other already posted some and hope my other pics arent too much of OT
Making sure resistance is between 30-40 ohms, this one seems good at 33.6
See the green harness? thats where it goes held in by a 10mm
Vacuuming someone's Nest out.. (soo sorry but the car was mine first)
Holding old FPR above new to me FPS
Come to think about it, I didnt get many KS pics... I'm glad some other already posted some and hope my other pics arent too much of OT
09-22-2009, 07:54 PM
#63
Replacing the knock sensor, 4th gen Maxima (part 1 of 2)
Replacing the knock sensor, 4th gen Maxima (part 2 of 2)
Pmohr would be having a field day
Replacing the knock sensor, 4th gen Maxima (part 2 of 2)
Pmohr would be having a field day
09-23-2009, 06:40 PM
#67
09-24-2009, 06:25 AM
#70
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
dude...to remove the knock sensor all u need is:
a u-joint, socket wrench, and extension and 12mm socket head..o and small hands hehe...
Doin it this is a major PAIN IN THE u know what hehe but its def doable the easy way. And a cool engine does help
a u-joint, socket wrench, and extension and 12mm socket head..o and small hands hehe...
Doin it this is a major PAIN IN THE u know what hehe but its def doable the easy way. And a cool engine does help
09-24-2009, 08:02 AM
#71
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 9
My wife's 98 has been having a difficult problem starting and had thrown a code for the knock sensor. So I took it out last week using a 12mm socket and ujoint on a long extension. It came out pretty quick and the KS was cracked along one side. I bought one of the ebay KS's and just installed it this morning. Cleared the KS code in the ECM and it starts relativley fine now.
Reinstalling was pretty easy as well... I put the new KS on the harness and ran the bolt through. I then put the socket and ujoint with the extension on the bolt and levereged the wiring harness against the extension so everything would stay in place as I located the bolt in the KS into the hole. Tightened up just fine.
You could also use a dedicated 12mm flex socket, which would give you more room and a better angle to loosen and tighten with a socket wrench:
About $9 at Sears: http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...03000&sLevel=0
on the craftsman tool!!
09-24-2009, 10:12 AM
#73
+1 on the Ujoint and socket method. I don't know how you guys get your hands in there with a regular 12mm wrench?!?!
My wife's 98 has been having a difficult problem starting and had thrown a code for the knock sensor. So I took it out last week using a 12mm socket and ujoint on a long extension. It came out pretty quick and the KS was cracked along one side. I bought one of the ebay KS's and just installed it this morning. Cleared the KS code in the ECM and it starts relativley fine now.
Reinstalling was pretty easy as well... I put the new KS on the harness and ran the bolt through. I then put the socket and ujoint with the extension on the bolt and levereged the wiring harness against the extension so everything would stay in place as I located the bolt in the KS into the hole. Tightened up just fine.
You could also use a dedicated 12mm flex socket, which would give you more room and a better angle to loosen and tighten with a socket wrench:
About $9 at Sears: http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...03000&sLevel=0
My wife's 98 has been having a difficult problem starting and had thrown a code for the knock sensor. So I took it out last week using a 12mm socket and ujoint on a long extension. It came out pretty quick and the KS was cracked along one side. I bought one of the ebay KS's and just installed it this morning. Cleared the KS code in the ECM and it starts relativley fine now.
Reinstalling was pretty easy as well... I put the new KS on the harness and ran the bolt through. I then put the socket and ujoint with the extension on the bolt and levereged the wiring harness against the extension so everything would stay in place as I located the bolt in the KS into the hole. Tightened up just fine.
You could also use a dedicated 12mm flex socket, which would give you more room and a better angle to loosen and tighten with a socket wrench:
About $9 at Sears: http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...03000&sLevel=0
09-24-2009, 12:15 PM
#75
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
My usual parts supply said $72 not sure if OEM, but he said Made in Japan.
Here is a cheaper one from ebay for $25, but may not be worth it?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/1998-98-99-1999-N...#ht_9886wt_916
09-24-2009, 12:32 PM
#76
Hmm, not sure about one from the scrap yard, as Nissan anyways has a history on this part and how many miles already on it.
My usual parts supply said $72 not sure if OEM, but he said Made in Japan.
Here is a cheaper one from ebay for $25, but may not be worth it?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/1998-98-99-1999-N...#ht_9886wt_916
My usual parts supply said $72 not sure if OEM, but he said Made in Japan.
Here is a cheaper one from ebay for $25, but may not be worth it?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/1998-98-99-1999-N...#ht_9886wt_916
Ebay KS's are somewhat relatively new, as members haven't logged lots and lots of miles on them, but from what I've read, and installing an ebay KS on a friends Maxima myself, I can say that the ebay KS's seem to work just fine.
Ebay KS seems to be the way to go.
09-24-2009, 02:39 PM
#78
