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KS...Is it REALLY worth replacing???

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Old 09-22-2009, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ColombianMax
Thanks dude, I was looking all over the FSM yesterday, even printed out pave EC-235 and was lookin for the resistance all over but bla I was just too tired to keep looking.

Is this 30-40 ohm with the car on or off?

I'm gonna go get a couple free spares from the JY
Nope, you don't want the car on when measuring resistance. Resistance should always be measured without voltage applied (... if you exclude the voltage applied from the Ohmmeter to correctly determine the test circuit's resistance, if you wanna get technical).
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Old 09-22-2009, 03:19 PM
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Had a scan done to clear up the check engine light, and was informed there is an "old" code for the knock sensor.

The mechanic then advised that perhaps it is only an old code that hasn't cleared and changing a KS is $300 for the sensor plus around 6 hours labor to get at it (its a ***** he said).

Since I changed from Canadian tire (crappy tire) gas to shell gas, my gas mileage is 26MPG city/hwy mixed (remember our imperial gallon is 20% bigger).

I have noticed that the 98 max is disappointingly underpowered though.

Now regarding possible replacement, $30-$50 for the unit from ebay, does sound encouraging, but is the mechanic snowing me about the 6 hours labor as the threads seem to indicate a relatively easy DIY replacement, though I have yet seen a How to here.

edit: ok found the How-to http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-tutorial.html
but on my max the KS is mired under the intake manifold so I I have a dual cam.

Now just to remover the upper intake manifold to get at the sensor, is it only a matter of removing and labeling all the connectors ala Haines manual?

A long DIY project?

Last edited by holymoly; 09-22-2009 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 09-22-2009, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by holymoly
Had a scan done to clear up the check engine light, and was informed there is an "old" code for the knock sensor.

The mechanic then advised that perhaps it is only an old code that hasn't cleared and changing a KS is $300 for the sensor plus around 6 hours labor to get at it (its a ***** he said).

Since I changed from Canadian tire (crappy tire) gas to shell gas, my gas mileage is 26MPG city/hwy mixed (remember our imperial gallon is 20% bigger).

I have noticed that the 98 max is disappointingly underpowered though.

Now regarding possible replacement, $30-$50 for the unit from ebay, does sound encouraging, but is the mechanic snowing me about the 6 hours labor as the threads seem to indicate a relatively easy DIY replacement, though I have yet seen a How to here.
Since you have a 98, your mechanic is trying to make a fortune off of you. You can do it yourself in 30 minutes or less with basic tools.

Only 99 CA spec Maximas are a nightmare. Even then, it should only take 3-4 hours to do, not 6.

Changing the KS has been discussed (with pics) a gazillion times here, and recently too. SEARCH please.
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Old 09-22-2009, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
Since you have a 98, your mechanic is trying to make a fortune off of you. You can do it yourself in 30 minutes or less with basic tools.

Only 99 CA spec Maximas are a nightmare. Even then, it should only take 3-4 hours to do, not 6.

Changing the KS has been discussed (with pics) a gazillion times here, and recently too. SEARCH please.
edit: ok found the How-to Easy Knock Sensor Installation! Picture Tutorial
but on my max the KS is mired under the intake manifold so I I have a dual cam?

Now just to remover the upper intake manifold to get at the sensor, is it only a matter of removing and labeling all the connectors ala Haines manual?

A long DIY project?
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Old 09-22-2009, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by holymoly
edit: ok found the How-to Easy Knock Sensor Installation! Picture Tutorial
but on my max the KS is mired under the intake manifold so I I have a dual cam?

Now just to remover the upper intake manifold to get at the sensor, is it only a matter of removing and labeling all the connectors ala Haines manual?

A long DIY project?
Your Canadian Max must be different than US Maximas, cuz 98's should have the KS pretty accessible and within view. Piece of cake job.

Upper IM, then fuel rail, then lower IM to get to KS. Pretty much all the connectors are unique/certain length, so labeling them is not required (at least for me anyway)
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Old 09-22-2009, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by holymoly
Had a scan done to clear up the check engine light, and was informed there is an "old" code for the knock sensor.

The mechanic then advised that perhaps it is only an old code that hasn't cleared and changing a KS is $300 for the sensor plus around 6 hours labor to get at it (its a ***** he said).

Since I changed from Canadian tire (crappy tire) gas to shell gas, my gas mileage is 26MPG city/hwy mixed (remember our imperial gallon is 20% bigger).

I have noticed that the 98 max is disappointingly underpowered though.

Now regarding possible replacement, $30-$50 for the unit from ebay, does sound encouraging, but is the mechanic snowing me about the 6 hours labor as the threads seem to indicate a relatively easy DIY replacement, though I have yet seen a How to here.

edit: ok found the How-to http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-tutorial.html
but on my max the KS is mired under the intake manifold so I I have a dual cam.

Now just to remover the upper intake manifold to get at the sensor, is it only a matter of removing and labeling all the connectors ala Haines manual?

A long DIY project?
Dude your mechanic is a rip off. I went to the junk yard today to pick up the EGRC which took 2 minutes and then for S&Gs I decided to get the KS out just as practice, KS LITERALLY took me less than one minute after having removed the air ducts and intake. Even removing the plastic is easy.

If he's gonna charge 6 hours worth then he's A. Incompetent B. Money hungry C. Is trying to scare you from doing this yourself due to "intense" labor and hours so he can charge you. He's going by book time which suggest you pull everything out vs. being ingenius and using right tools to save time. Regarless book time should not be more than 2 hours for something so simple.
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Old 09-22-2009, 04:23 PM
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ColumbianMax, removing the upper intake manifold to get at KS below, is strictly a matter of only removing the bolts? and just labeling all the connectors, that's it?
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Old 09-22-2009, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
Your Canadian Max must be different than US Maximas, cuz 98's should have the KS pretty accessible and within view. Piece of cake job.

Upper IM, then fuel rail, then lower IM to get to KS. Pretty much all the connectors are unique/certain length, so labeling them is not required (at least for me anyway)
OK, I'll get a picture.
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Old 09-22-2009, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by holymoly
ColumbianMax, removing the upper intake manifold to get at KS below, is strictly a matter of only removing the bolts? and just labeling all the connectors, that's it?
I already answered your question, no?? It's more than just the IM. How about you post a pic of your engine bay while standing at your driver's front tire?? Then we'll know for sure what scenario you have.

Buy a Haynes for $8 off Amazon, or download the FSM for free. We can't possibly spell everything out for you. There are two brackets that you can't see behind the IM and are a real ***** w/o the right tools/patience. You'll need the FSM anyway to get the torque specs for when you put everything back together.

If you have any mechanical abilities, you'll be just fine. Otherwise, let someone else do it for you.
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:05 PM
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you could go the cheap and easy route and just put a resistor in there.............

But in all honesty some of the things on the manifold removal you will struggle with more then vs Just going from the side. Just a thought........................
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Product_Of_Korea
you could go the cheap and easy route and just put a resistor in there.............

But in all honesty some of the things on the manifold removal you will struggle with more then vs Just going from the side. Just a thought........................
+1
alot of crap must be removed to reach that thingy....
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:15 PM
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If you reread I do have a Haines and it looks different in addition to the link I posted. So just unbolt the intake. You'll see accessing w/o unbolting is really difficult. And forget the 12mm wrench, those are screws.



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Old 09-22-2009, 05:17 PM
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LOL. That's one of your fuel injectors bro.
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by holymoly
If you reread I do have a Haines


I don't go back and read edits, sorry. It's a Haynes too BTW.
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:24 PM
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Page 6-16 of Haynes manual, illustration 13.10

"On 95 and later models, the KS is located under the intake manifold"

and the pictures above, that's all that's visible under the manifold.

Last edited by holymoly; 09-22-2009 at 05:25 PM. Reason: ok its Haynes, not Haines
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by holymoly
Page 6-16 of Haines manual, illustration 13.10

"On 95 and later models, the KS is located under the intake manifold"

and the pictures above, that's all that's visible under the manifold.


Clearly, you don't know what you are looking for. Look LOWER. Trust me, that's the fuel rail and one of the injectors in your pics.
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:28 PM
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ok. lower and to the side of intake?

np

then this is an easy fix, eventually will figure out.

$30 or so for new KS on ebay. A no-brainer to change

thanks

Last edited by holymoly; 09-22-2009 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:36 PM
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See this thread.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-tutorial.html






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Old 09-22-2009, 05:42 PM
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I was just looking at that again at how-to.

I can see now it is at the base of manifold coming down, and what I was lookin g at the fuel injector is tucked under in the middle.
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:34 PM
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I just did the knock sensor,EGRC, fuel pressure regulator, and changed my TB gasket. Pics coming soon. Spent about 45min to 1 hour from start to stop.
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:51 PM
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Ok so here's the EGRC (which caused P1400) I took from the JY.


Making sure resistance is between 30-40 ohms, this one seems good at 33.6


See the green harness? thats where it goes held in by a 10mm


Vacuuming someone's Nest out.. (soo sorry but the car was mine first)


Holding old FPR above new to me FPS


Come to think about it, I didnt get many KS pics... I'm glad some other already posted some and hope my other pics arent too much of OT
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:57 PM
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Makes ya wonder why nissan put this sensor in such a horrible place?
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:54 PM
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Replacing the knock sensor, 4th gen Maxima (part 1 of 2)

Replacing the knock sensor, 4th gen Maxima (part 2 of 2)

Pmohr would be having a field day
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Old 09-22-2009, 08:14 PM
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Yeah, I bet he loves the KS questions
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Old 09-22-2009, 08:41 PM
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oh thank GOD!!! someone posted pics of where teh KS is located, I was going through the messages, and I just wanted to hit someone in the face....
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Old 09-23-2009, 06:16 PM
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FWIW, I got a 1/4" drive Snap-on 12mm swivel head socket, very small piece, and with a few extensions, I was able to get the KS out pretty quick. It makes it a lot easier to put back in if you have small hands... and a cool engine!
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Old 09-23-2009, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by holymoly
I was just looking at that again at how-to.

I can see now it is at the base of manifold coming down, and what I was lookin g at the fuel injector is tucked under in the middle.
Whadya say holymoly.... Get it all figured out?
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Old 09-23-2009, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
Whadya say holymoly.... Get it all figured out?
Yeah. Looks like a little bugger, but I'm gonna save some bucks.

Thanks a bunch.
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Old 09-24-2009, 06:19 AM
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change the ks!!! ull notice alot of power...
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Old 09-24-2009, 06:25 AM
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dude...to remove the knock sensor all u need is:

a u-joint, socket wrench, and extension and 12mm socket head..o and small hands hehe...

Doin it this is a major PAIN IN THE u know what hehe but its def doable the easy way. And a cool engine does help
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Old 09-24-2009, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cashoit
dude...to remove the knock sensor all u need is:

a u-joint, socket wrench, and extension and 12mm socket head..o and small hands hehe...

Doin it this is a major PAIN IN THE u know what hehe but its def doable the easy way. And a cool engine does help
+1 on the Ujoint and socket method. I don't know how you guys get your hands in there with a regular 12mm wrench?!?!

My wife's 98 has been having a difficult problem starting and had thrown a code for the knock sensor. So I took it out last week using a 12mm socket and ujoint on a long extension. It came out pretty quick and the KS was cracked along one side. I bought one of the ebay KS's and just installed it this morning. Cleared the KS code in the ECM and it starts relativley fine now.

Reinstalling was pretty easy as well... I put the new KS on the harness and ran the bolt through. I then put the socket and ujoint with the extension on the bolt and levereged the wiring harness against the extension so everything would stay in place as I located the bolt in the KS into the hole. Tightened up just fine.

You could also use a dedicated 12mm flex socket, which would give you more room and a better angle to loosen and tighten with a socket wrench:



About $9 at Sears: http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...03000&sLevel=0
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:05 AM
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on the craftsman tool!!
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mholhut
+1 on the Ujoint and socket method. I don't know how you guys get your hands in there with a regular 12mm wrench?!?!

My wife's 98 has been having a difficult problem starting and had thrown a code for the knock sensor. So I took it out last week using a 12mm socket and ujoint on a long extension. It came out pretty quick and the KS was cracked along one side. I bought one of the ebay KS's and just installed it this morning. Cleared the KS code in the ECM and it starts relativley fine now.

Reinstalling was pretty easy as well... I put the new KS on the harness and ran the bolt through. I then put the socket and ujoint with the extension on the bolt and levereged the wiring harness against the extension so everything would stay in place as I located the bolt in the KS into the hole. Tightened up just fine.

You could also use a dedicated 12mm flex socket, which would give you more room and a better angle to loosen and tighten with a socket wrench:



About $9 at Sears: http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...03000&sLevel=0
That's exactly what I went to buy specifically for this job... plus a craftsman 24 inch 1/4 extension.
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:39 AM
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That reminds me, I totally forgot to replace my ks. I went to the junkyard and got one, but I got lazy and put a 470k ohm resistor as my fake ks. Lol, thanks for the reminder.
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Old 09-24-2009, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by kasemodz
That reminds me, I totally forgot to replace my ks. I went to the junkyard and got one, but I got lazy and put a 470k ohm resistor as my fake ks. Lol, thanks for the reminder.
Hmm, not sure about one from the scrap yard, as Nissan anyways has a history on this part and how many miles already on it.

My usual parts supply said $72 not sure if OEM, but he said Made in Japan.

Here is a cheaper one from ebay for $25, but may not be worth it?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/1998-98-99-1999-N...#ht_9886wt_916
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Old 09-24-2009, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by holymoly
Hmm, not sure about one from the scrap yard, as Nissan anyways has a history on this part and how many miles already on it.

My usual parts supply said $72 not sure if OEM, but he said Made in Japan.

Here is a cheaper one from ebay for $25, but may not be worth it?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/1998-98-99-1999-N...#ht_9886wt_916

Ebay KS's are somewhat relatively new, as members haven't logged lots and lots of miles on them, but from what I've read, and installing an ebay KS on a friends Maxima myself, I can say that the ebay KS's seem to work just fine.

Ebay KS seems to be the way to go.
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Old 09-24-2009, 02:33 PM
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Still have to order the KS, but is the 1/4 drive ratch with flex 12mm head necessary or a comparable 3/8 drive w/ flex 12mm head be sufficient?
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Old 09-24-2009, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by holymoly
Still have to order the KS, but is the 1/4 drive ratch with flex 12mm head necessary or a comparable 3/8 drive w/ flex 12mm head be sufficient?
3/8" will be fine. It's not that tight in there.
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Old 09-24-2009, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
3/8" will be fine. It's not that tight in there.
Pffff you only say that cuz you're small
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Old 09-24-2009, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ColombianMax
Pffff you only say that cuz you're small
Better be careful what I say....
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