Anti-seize for Spark Plug Threads?
Anti-seize for Spark Plug Threads?
Just wondering what kind of anti-seize do you use for the spark plug threads (if any at all)? While I was replacing the plugs, I have noticed that the threads were quite rusted. Advise appreciated as always.
Hi-temp Permatex anti-seize. I use the copper one with the paintbrush built into the lid. I think there's another one (black?) that's even higher-temp rated. If you use this on every bolt you remove you'll be glad you did if you do a lot of wrenching on the car. Especially in areas where they use a lot of road salt.
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You'll find many opinions on both sides of the argument, whether or not to use it. No manufacturer that I'm aware of has ever used it from the factory, says enough to me. Personally I never use it, and I've never had a problem getting plugs out of those vehicles years later.


You'll find many opinions on both sides of the argument, whether or not to use it. No manufacturer that I'm aware of has ever used it from the factory, says enough to me. Personally I never use it, and I've never had a problem getting plugs out of those vehicles years later.
Spark plugs come nickel plated on the threads. The nickel shears off and acts like nickel-based anti-seize.
If your threads are in good shape therefore there is no need for anti-seize. But adding it won't hurt.
If your threads are in good shape therefore there is no need for anti-seize. But adding it won't hurt.
You'll find many opinions on both sides of the argument, whether or not to use it. No manufacturer that I'm aware of has ever used it from the factory, says enough to me. Personally I never use it, and I've never had a problem getting plugs out of those vehicles years later.
Nice to know.
I do it as a matter of habit. We always had 15+year old hondas that had problems getting the old plugs out because the MF grease monkeys who changed the plugs (before we owned the cars) put them in too tight and the slightest bit of rust/whatever fused them to the threads. Talk about a PITA.
I get the stuff at the counters at Advanced Auto (little gray packets).
I get the stuff at the counters at Advanced Auto (little gray packets).
Whenever i refer to the haynes manual it says to add anti-sieze compound...thats good enough for me. Dont matter what brand u use, jus make sure to get the stuff for use with spark plugs
Granted that I've never overtorqued a plug due to using anti-seize, I'm generally more conscientious than I used to be regarding torquing and whether or not the spec reflects application of a substance. It just happens to spill over to this. I still contend that it is an overrated and unnecessary step.
Using anti-seize is beneficial when your alloy head is hot, as it can allow you to remove a spark plug with some heat in the engine rather than changing spark plugs first thing in the morning on a dead cold motor. Seen a few people strip spark plug threads removing spark plugs on a warm motor.
Another thing is that a blown headgasket can push water up the thread under compression and cause the spark plug to rust in place as well.
I am quite happy to use a small dab of ARP grease, since I usually end up with heaps of that left over on an engine build anyway lol
Another thing is that a blown headgasket can push water up the thread under compression and cause the spark plug to rust in place as well.
I am quite happy to use a small dab of ARP grease, since I usually end up with heaps of that left over on an engine build anyway lol
Hi-temp Permatex anti-seize. I use the copper one with the paintbrush built into the lid. I think there's another one (black?) that's even higher-temp rated. If you use this on every bolt you remove you'll be glad you did if you do a lot of wrenching on the car. Especially in areas where they use a lot of road salt.
edit - nvm the package(which i threw away) had a picture of spark plugs so i guess it better not blow up my engine.
Last edited by 96i30azn; Oct 2, 2009 at 05:21 AM.
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