Hey all,

I need some help.

I just removed the BOSE HU from my 1997 Max

I am hooking up a standard basic Pioneer CD player

I already got all hardware ready and I am not getting any power to my Pioneer.

~ Note: I even just hooked red to red, yellow to yellow and black to black; Just to see if my Pioneer HU would power on and its a no go. I then tested to make sure the Pioneer HU works, so I hooked it directly to my 12v car battery and confirms that it does work.

So below are the Pioneer colors which I need your help to know what colors on the BOSE wires I need to hook up to get even power (turn my HU even on, lol).

Here's the wire colors that need to be hooked up the module harness on the BOSE junk:

RED (acc)

YELLOW (Battery)

BLACK (ground)

BLUE w/ WHITE STRIPE (not sure, but maybe remote?)


Now here are the colors of the BOSE wires that I need to find out what goes to what.

RED (12-volt ignition)

YELLOW (12-volt)

BLACK (ground)

BLACK w/ WHITE STRIPE (amplifier ground)

BLUE w/ WHITE STRIPE (amp turn-on)

BLUE (power antenna)

ORANGE (illumination)

Also there are RCA's
Two sets, the colors are:
(1) White, (1) Grey

The other is (1) Green, the other is (1) Purple. I assume these need to be hooked up to my Pionner RCA input?


Thanks all for getting help to get my aftermarket HU going.

 

Aside from your power issue, you are aware that you cannot connect the BOSE speakers to your new HU? Wrong impedance.

 

All,

Here's the bose wires




And here's the Pioneer wires.




Thanks all for any help to get power n sound going

 

they do sell a bose amp integration harness...by metra electronics. your headunit must include front and rear pre outs, in where you can run an aftermarket hu with bose speakers

 

whoops looks like you have it. the rca's go as follows: white front drvr, grey front passenger, purple rear driver, green rear passenger and plug in accordingly in the back of the radio. as for power, test with a meter to see whats not getting voltage...try to make an external ground connection, that may be the problem

 

Oh.... so I cannot just hook up a basic Pioneer head unit... is needs those kind of preouts for those rca's?

What about the other wires... how do I go about hooking it up?

 

the rca's are your speaker wires in this case. the radio you need must have front and rear pre outs. red is right, white is left on the back of the hu. but try to make an external ground to the chassis, i know a lot of nissan's you have to do this...i did in my 4th gen. the harness may have a ground connection, but in some cases...if you follow the black wire it leads to nothing on the car side of the plug. the blue wire is ur antenna turn on wire. and blue/white stripe is if you have an external aftermarket amplifier.

 

what is the model number of the pioneer radio you have...i.e. deh-p###?

 

btw happy new year!

 

stupid question, but it must be asked.
Did the bose unit power on prior to removal?
Did you check the fuse in the fuseblock AND the one in the radio (pioneer radio)

 

Op- i dont understand why you are using that harness. When i did my 97 gle w/ bose a few years ago it used a standard harness with no rca connections on it. A 4 ohm load per channel from a aftermarket hu should have no effect, each speaker has its own amplifier built into the housing. But if yours is dif from mine for whatever reason the rcas on the harness you have need to be connected to your after market hu s 4 channel outputs(your front and rear out puts). If the unit only has one set of outputs you can use a rca spliter or go with a indash eq that will only need one input and will provide you with a 4 channel output and a seperate sub out. Sorry for the rant

 

the op mentioned he connected the radio to the battery confirming the pioneer unit works

 

only answers 3b. still have 1,2, and 3a to answer

 

I hear in some cases that the BOSE speakers will still work even if the impedance is diff. Maybe u lucked out and got a AF HU thats puts out 1 ohm.

 

it's not that the HU puts out 1 ohm, it's that it can survive the 1 ohm speakers. Most H/Us are designed with 4 ohm impedance and can readily handle 2 ohm.

 

doesnt that make the amp in the radio overheat and work harder being ran at 2 ohms?

 

its 1 ohm thank you, and seriosuly guys; you cant put a band aid on this problem. it makes me sad to see people buy these expensive systems and send a high level signal to their low level speaker amps! Do it right, integration harness or search around for my 20$ method.

 

i hooked my xplod up with no problem to the bose.... everyone in my car thinks it sounds amazing.... and i went to pepboys to get the part...

 

yes

 

There's an A/V forum btw.

But since we're here, hook the BLose back up and make sure it powers on when you turn it the key to acc. That way you'll ensure that you're receiving power from the acc/switched (red) wire and the battery(always on - edit: yellow). Don't have the BLose anymore? Well, hook up the red and yellow from the pioneer to the yellow wire coming from the car harness side..should turn right on (if not, you probably blew a fuse). Test with the red side with the acc(red wire) with the key in the acc..should turn on as well. Hook up blues together, that'll turn on your antenna and also the BLose amps (make sure you turn your radio off if you're getting the car washed).

You have the correct harness for BLose integration..don't listen to the dummies that run high level (speaker) to the low level input on the BLose amps. The pre-amps on the back of your radio give the cleanest sound to your amps, hence the word PRE-amp. Go get yourself a Metra 99-7550 (IIRC) kit to cage mount your radio and give it a good luck. ISO mount looks ugly in this car where you mount the radio to the brackets using screws.

 

then thats a fail. lol

 

depends n the H/U some can handle it, others can not

 

when something like this happened to me it ended up being i dident plug in the antenna...and i guess the antenna has some kind of power sorce.....

 

ground actually.

 

dude, just get yourself the integration harness and save yourself a world of headaches.

 

I used this diagram when I replaced my bose deck. Not sure if it will help, but sharing it anyway:



Wire colors are abbreviated as follows:

 

you guys are making things harder than they have to be. I have a 96 se with the bose, i didnt even buy a harness just cut the factory harness and matched each wire to the oposing wire. I used a bose pinout for my car and ran the speaker outputs to some home ghetto rca's (btw my alpine hu has rcas for front rear and sub). But the reason your not gettin power is because the bose headunit is grounded through the metal frame on which it is screwed so i would say ground the black wire from the pioneer out to the chassis because the two black wires in the factory harness are used to remove electrical impulses ground both of those as close to the hu as possible and there ya go no harness or money spent and mine has been working ever since never had a problem.


RED (acc)- thats the acc wire which is run to the red ign wire

YELLOW (Battery)- run that to yellow 12v

BLACK (ground)- ground to your chassis

BLUE w/ WHITE STRIPE (not sure, but maybe remote?)- wire is used to signal bose amps to turn on

Now here are the colors of the BOSE wires that I need to find out what goes to what.

RED (12-volt ignition)- red

YELLOW (12-volt)- yellow

BLACK (ground) dont connect to a wire simply ground to your chassis in other words you can just attach it to any bare metal thats connected to the cars frame

BLACK w/ WHITE STRIPE (amplifier ground)

BLUE w/ WHITE STRIPE (amp turn-on)- blue w white stripe

BLUE (power antenna)- should be easy to find on a pinout of your hu

ORANGE (illumination)- not necessary cause i have mine connected and it doesn't work

 

Duuuuh.

Good call on the ground.. 4.5 years of installing radios and you'd think I'd remember (granted its been 3 years). Anyhow...make sure you ground that black wire, using the antenna for ground is bad practice (crappy ground).

 

that the OEs do all the time.

 

Not exactly...granted it's been awhile, but IIRC the OEs ground it through the chassis, so the moment you screw in the brackets it'll come on. Aftermarket radios only ground through the ground cable (or at least the good majority of them).

 

could be that too. I know that on several installs it came on once I plugged in the antenna. They may just accept any valid ground they can to work

 

the op hasnt even responded yet as to if it works.

 

it's only been a week...

 

I actually never even had the power antenna connector hooked in for about a month and everything worked just fine and the reason i say to ground the black wire to the chassis is because all headunits might not be grounded through the frame or it may be a weak ground straight to bare metal on the chassis is the best way to go, imo.

 

i guess we'll see and keep posting here lol

 

Hey guys let me chime in here. I have a 95 Max. I swapped out the Bose head unit for a Kenwood Excelion PBX-701 double din and kept the Bose amps but changed the speakers (blown). The speakers are Kenwood too.

I am using the high outputs because I wanted to incorporate a couple of amps later on. The only way I was able to do that is by using a four channel down converter (will have to post the actual model at a later time, using my blackberry to post this).

But I had no trouble at all. The guys at Crutchfield found the right wiring harness to boot. Now I can switch between using the Bose amplifier or an after market amp to drive the speakers. I can do this from the menu on the head unit itself. And the speakers can be driven by the Bose amps or the aftermarket amps without any problem. My piont here is that you have options.

The only issue I ran across was the mounting of the bose amps because they were mounted on the actual bose speakers, but it wasn't anything a drill bit and a couple of rivets couldn't handle. The only thing I have not yet figured out is the remote for the Amps. Hope someone here can help. The issue is that the remote wire turns on regardless of which amp is selected. So that being said the aftermarket amps will be on all the time. Any ideas? (Sorry for the rant too)

Components
Kenwood Exceleon DPX-701 - head unit
Kenwood Exceleon KFC-1650S - doors and rear deck speakers
Bose amps - came with the car (one per speaker - output unknown)
Schosche SLC4 - four channel line output converter

Upcoming Upgrades
2 amps - one for a 12" or 15" sub, and one for doors and rear deck have not decided the wattage yet.

Thinking of making a custom box for the rear and fiberglassing it.

Stay tuned.