Removing ECTS and air intake scoop - help
01-10-2010, 10:19 AM
#1
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Location: S. Philadelphia
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Removing ECTS and air intake scoop - help
Hey all. I have an intermittent stall problem after the engine warms up and when I come to a stop in stop-and-go traffic. I've done a lot of research on the .org so far in the past couple weeks and I have a good idea of some of the troubleshooting / areas that could be causing it. The CEL was showing P1400 and I changed the EGR Solenoid myself (1st part I ever changed). Unfortunately that hasn't solved the stall issue.
I have a new engine coolant temperature sensor that I ordered at the same time as the EGR Solenoid, and I couldn't get the old one out this morning. I don't know how to get the air intake scoop off and I didn't want to break anything. So after more research, I decided to remove and clean the two electrical harness ground screws on the air intake manifold.
I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet but I wanted to post to see if anyone can help me figure out how to get the air intake scoop off so that I can get at the ECTS and replace it with the new one I have.
Can anyone help? Thanks!
I have a new engine coolant temperature sensor that I ordered at the same time as the EGR Solenoid, and I couldn't get the old one out this morning. I don't know how to get the air intake scoop off and I didn't want to break anything. So after more research, I decided to remove and clean the two electrical harness ground screws on the air intake manifold.
I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet but I wanted to post to see if anyone can help me figure out how to get the air intake scoop off so that I can get at the ECTS and replace it with the new one I have.
Can anyone help? Thanks!
01-10-2010, 02:11 PM
#2
The best way to do it is to just look at it, and start unbolting stuff. It sounds primitive, but there's really no method to it. I'll try to describe it from memory, hopefully this will suffice as I don't think there are really any visual write-ups for this task.
IIRC, Unhook the clips securing the top of the airbox, loosen the circular clamp holding the flex tubing to the throttle body, unplug your MAF sensor and Intake Air Temp Sensor, disconnect the two hoses running to the midpipe, and remove the entire top portion of the assembly (MAF, midpipe/oil separator, top of airbox) as one unit. The idea here is to take as much of it off as you can as one unit, to make things easier when it comes time to put it all back. I never had to replace my ECTS, but If you need to remove the bottom portion of the airbox, look inside of it, pull the air filter off, and you'll see four bolts securing it to the chassis. Loosen them and pull the box out. Be careful as they are likely to snap. I think I lost about 3 of the 4 - they just snapped right off when I was trying to loosen them
Pull it out, and pull the snorkel out as well, and you should have more than enough room to work with. To put everything back, just follow the same steps in reverse.
IIRC, Unhook the clips securing the top of the airbox, loosen the circular clamp holding the flex tubing to the throttle body, unplug your MAF sensor and Intake Air Temp Sensor, disconnect the two hoses running to the midpipe, and remove the entire top portion of the assembly (MAF, midpipe/oil separator, top of airbox) as one unit. The idea here is to take as much of it off as you can as one unit, to make things easier when it comes time to put it all back. I never had to replace my ECTS, but If you need to remove the bottom portion of the airbox, look inside of it, pull the air filter off, and you'll see four bolts securing it to the chassis. Loosen them and pull the box out. Be careful as they are likely to snap. I think I lost about 3 of the 4 - they just snapped right off when I was trying to loosen them
Pull it out, and pull the snorkel out as well, and you should have more than enough room to work with. To put everything back, just follow the same steps in reverse.
01-13-2010, 05:49 AM
#3
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Took my car to my mechanic and he put the ECTS in without charging me. Since the car has been stalling hot or cold, he agreed that the MAF is likely the problem. He suggested ordering an MAF (I found a new OEM one on ebay for $95) and trying to put it in myself, and if I have problems, he'll put it in for me.
Hopefully by the end of next week, my 95 SE with 164,500 mi will be running smooth again. Otherwise, I'm going to be buying a new / used SUV or maybe Altima. I want to keep the max for at least another year or two though.
Hopefully by the end of next week, my 95 SE with 164,500 mi will be running smooth again. Otherwise, I'm going to be buying a new / used SUV or maybe Altima. I want to keep the max for at least another year or two though.
01-13-2010, 05:52 AM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
Took my car to my mechanic and he put the ECTS in without charging me. Since the car has been stalling hot or cold, he agreed that the MAF is likely the problem. He suggested ordering an MAF (I found a new OEM one on ebay for $95) and trying to put it in myself, and if I have problems, he'll put it in for me.
Hopefully by the end of next week, my 95 SE with 164,500 mi will be running smooth again. Otherwise, I'm going to be buying a new / used SUV or maybe Altima. I want to keep the max for at least another year or two though.
Hopefully by the end of next week, my 95 SE with 164,500 mi will be running smooth again. Otherwise, I'm going to be buying a new / used SUV or maybe Altima. I want to keep the max for at least another year or two though.
01-13-2010, 01:20 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 294
Removing the EGR Solenoid was a pain.
There's a little nut under there and you can't get to it. I had to bend the metal bracket to 90 degrees and use a sear flexiable 10mm socket to get at it. I sprayed some PB blaster between the metal and the bottom of the Solenoid...after a few bloody knuckles, I got it off.
A new one cost me $140! Canadian...
Can I ask what you paid for your and where you go it?
Thanks
There's a little nut under there and you can't get to it. I had to bend the metal bracket to 90 degrees and use a sear flexiable 10mm socket to get at it. I sprayed some PB blaster between the metal and the bottom of the Solenoid...after a few bloody knuckles, I got it off.
A new one cost me $140! Canadian...
Can I ask what you paid for your and where you go it?
Thanks
01-13-2010, 02:19 PM
#6
I bought a MAF from ebay (advertised as brand new), and it worked for 15 minutes before the car died. Luckily it died in front of my house. Shipped it right back to the seller, who refunded my money without issue, before receiving the defective part. I guess he was accustomed to accepting returns on them.
01-13-2010, 08:28 PM
#7
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I ordered it from Courtesy Nissan, after finding a link to that part in another thread. Here's the link -> VALVE ASSY-SOLENOID - Maxima (A32B) 1999 CAL, 1995-1998, 1997-1998, 199 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com
01-14-2010, 07:45 AM
#8
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
I bought a MAF from ebay (advertised as brand new), and it worked for 15 minutes before the car died. Luckily it died in front of my house. Shipped it right back to the seller, who refunded my money without issue, before receiving the defective part. I guess he was accustomed to accepting returns on them.
Really?? Im kinda dissappointed man...
Dealer charges 600 bucks for a new MAF. I hate to get a used one. I think mine is used junkyard from a infiniti j20. How do i know??...J20 is written all over it lol.
I think ima try to negotiate with the dealer...tell em 400 bucks and see what he says lol. U can ALWAYS negotiate with the dealer. Hell, i do
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