I have a problem with my 1998 Max 5-speed (CAL) that folks think might be solved by changing the MAF. Which leads me to ask: is there in the aftermarket a better alternative MAF than the factory unit that my local dealer will want to install?

Same question as to coil packs, if one or more of those is the culprit, can I do better than factory units, and if so where?

There is no good repair shop around that I know of, and the dealer has a habit of throwing parts at problems without actually diagnosing them. I figure putting in an MAF is more like an experiment than a cure, so I might as well consider something other than the standard.

Thanks.

 

Nothing wrong with getting oem replacement coils or the stock maf unless you are highly modified like for boost. Search for your car's symptoms on here and you should be able to find the problem and solution without throwing money at the stealership.

 

I dont know what u mean by an Aftermarket MAF. What would it accomplish. ITs a MAF. THats like saying is there an Aftermarket 02 sensor or ECTS. What would aftermarket mean???

Are u asking whether or not the Aftermarket or non-OEM will last longer??
Maybe they will and maybe they wont work at all. MAF sensor are finicky pieces of equipment. PPl on the org have purchased the aftermarket MAFs off ebay and some worked fine and some didnt work at all. THat would be tha same issue with getting one from the junkyard...it might still work and it might not.

Overall, IIRC the ebay MAFs work fine for a fraction of what the dealer will charge you. I think when ppl bought ones that DIDNT work...they were used MAFs. Jus make sure to get a brand spanky new one.

Oh and DONT experiment with yur MAF. Jus get the replacement. If u FAWK with it u will be sorry. They are too critical to these cars to screw with.

Good Luck

 

Jus get replacement coilpacks...new ones. Dont screw wit those either.

U can do the replacements urself for the MAF or coilpacks. They easy

 

What are the issues with your car?
Do you have a check engine light on?
Have you pulled the diagnostic trouble codes?

You can buy parts for your car at any auto parts store. Run diagnostics and post your results on here before you start throwing parts at it. We can help you troubleshoot and possibly save you some $$$ in the long run.

 

I did a TB, IACV, MAF clean this past weekend and now my car shudders between 30-40mph aroudn 1500-2000 rpm, it's random when I have the gas pedal at a constant. Do you think my MAF is messed up? I used MAF cleaner and was very careful. But I've read on here of a lot people cleaning their MAF and F*ing it up even when done properly.

Thanks for any help. I'm at a loss and don't want to spend money just to do trial and error.

 

Maxx,

Any codes? What do u mean shudder? Rpms fall and rise randomly? Were u experiencing these symptoms before the TB, MAF cleaning procedure?

A sure fire way to know yur MAF is goin is if the engine wont rev past 2k-2500 rpm. If u used MAF cleaaner, u didnt mess it up. It was already messed up maybe beyond cleaning and now needs to be replaced.

MAFs are hard to troubleshoot. if u have a buddy who has a maxi, swap MAFs and see if there is any improvement. Here is the FSM:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1997/IDX.pdf

I have hrd that sometime the MAF connector may be corroded. Check that and resolder if necessary.

Try more MAF cleaning, see if it helps. Get a used one, dont buy new from Ebay.

 

@cashoit,

No codes. reseated the all connectors and no I didn't have the problem before I did the cleaning although I did have a little rough idling and car stall on mean in a parking lot during coasting. I did unplug the MAF connector before the cleaning and if it's unplugged the car won't go past about 2K rpm.

By shudder it feels like very slight shaking, like the fuel is getting cut and off. It very subtle though. I saw used MAF's on ebay but don't want to buy one unless I have to. I clean the MAF carefully with about a 1/2 can of CRC MAF cleaner. I honestly don't know how I would clean it any better.

 

So did the cleaning help at all? do u mean the engine is shuddering or the transmission is slipping? Does it feel like an engine or suspension or chassis issue?

does it feel like a worn motor mount? does it feel like a misfire? U try some Chevron Techron or other fuel injector cleaner lately. Use a bottle of that stuff and all yur problems go away for 10 buck lol.

year , transmission and mileage?

 

The cleaning took care of the erratic idle and parking lot idle stalling when coasting but introduced the shuddering. I'm just wondering if it's coincidence that this happened after all the cleaning.

97 SE Auto 185K. I actually put Chevron in it before I did the clean. I wonder if there is left over buildup in the UIM from cleaning the EGR inlet to the tube. I watched the RPM's on the way to work when it did it today and they were rock steady. Could it be my tranny slipping? I've used Redline full synthetic since about 30K and have changed it regularly every 30K. It almost feels like a mis fire since it's like a jerking and light tugging feeling. What do worn motor mounts feel like? and would it cause the symptoms of what I'm experiencing only at lower speeds?

Thanks for being patient with my Q&A's

 

A fellow chevron believer...YES!! lol


A slipping tranny will feel like this: when u are accelerating from say 1st the 2nd gear, the car will stay in first longer than what it is supposed to. the rpms will stay high and the car will chagne gears late.

I answered misfire question in the thread u started.

thread jacking lol

 

When I accelerate the car doesn't stay in 1st any longer that it has since I bought it used @ 13K. The tranny is still snappy and quick. So you would rule out the MAF and TPS correct? Is a misfire more noticeable during slow constant driving?