Installed both covers and intake gaskets. While I was in there, I replaced the plugs, PVC, air filter, gas filter, and cleaned EGR. Simple enough. I wish...

The 4 back bolts were a PITA, lost 2 bracket bolts and the plug gaskets were a bit tricky to get out but I got it done (a full days work) and called it a night.

Warmed her up this AM and she was leaking coolant. After trouble shooting, turns out I forgot to reconnect a hose in the rear, which is next to impossible to reach without removing the intake manifold. Dangumit!!!

Future Tips:

- REPLACE REAR HOSE (coolant) STOCK CLAMP WITH THREADED CLAMP (any hardware store)
- Label (number) hoses/connectors
- Patience with 4 12mm rear bolts
- Re-install rear coolant hose
- Definitely a DIY (Thanks org and Hanes manual)

Sorry for the long rant, but had to vent since I get to tear her down again tomorrow.

 

good luck =)

 

You don't need those rear brackets. Don't re-install them.

 

Thanks!

Don't the rear bolts support the UIM?

Any tips on how to connect rear coolant hose w/o removing UIM?

 

Nope. Most people remove them when they go to the 00VI and the 00VI doesn't have them. I used to be 00VI and now am stock again and haven't used them in months.

As far as putting the hose back on, I'd say from the bottom (if you have a lift or can get the car high enough). Its tough, but I believe I did mine from the battery side of the car one time. The only hard part should be the clamp. If you position it facing the firewall, you should be able to use needle nose pliers and get it on one way or another. The actual hose should be pretty easy to slide onto the 'nipple'. You can use (from what I understand) ATF to help 'lube it'.

 

I hate those bloody things. I only took the 2 bolts connecting the brackets to the UIM off, I had a hard time getting my had back there(even with my small hands) so I just left them off. You should too

And that hose sucks too......

 

Got the hose on w/o removing UIM earlier (PITA), but no luck with the clamp. Got frustrated and tried starting w/o clamp. As soon as I gunned it, started leaking again.

 

I still say try from the bottom best you can.

 

+ Long needle nose

 

Yep, tried long needle nose. Can't get enough levereage to get the clamp over the bump in the hose where the nipple is sitting under the tube. Also, no room from the bottom.

What about disassembling the throttle body to get more clearance from the side?

 

I recommend removing the IACV to make more room to reach the hose and clamp. I can get mine on/off pretty easy without the IACV and it only takes a few minutes to r&r.

EDIT: Make sure to grab the gasket before removing the last bolt. I dropped mine in the bay and couldn't find it for hours. Then I did the same thing with the EGR guide tube. Doh!

 

Good luck man, I have to remove my UIM to get to my cyl 3 fuel filter.

 

That would work.

Also, try lubing the hose up like I said with some ATF.

 

What's/where's the IACV and any pics?

 

On the side of the TB, look at the engine from the drivers fender, just a little in back of and on the side is the IACV. You'll need a gasket or 'make your own' gasket.

 

The IACV gasket is metal/metallic. It should be fine to reuse. I know I have plenty of times (and have also replaced) without issue. The throttle body gasket is paper, and that one should be changed if you tear it even the slightest bit.

As for where it is...as JtzMax said it's on the side of the throttle body...



For point of reference, the EGR Temp. Sensor is just in front of the hose you are trying to connect (if you are standing at the driver side fender).

 

is this the hose that goes through it UIM for no reason? The one that makes taking the UIM a total PITA? That part that goes through the UIM is pointless, it doesn't do anything. I just bought a long hose and bypassed the UIM connection union altogether, been like that for years.

 

That's the coolant line to the UIM. By bypassing the UIM, you are doing the mod known as "coolant bypass". I wouldn't recommend it. It's there for a reason.

 

That's the coolant hose and it's not too happy when it's disconnected. Lots of coolant everywhere.

Okay, going to see if removing the IACV gives me anymore space but it looks like the EGR valve will still be in the way.

Thanks again and wish me luck cause I need my car back.

Also, feel free to chime in with more advice as I'll be checking this thread on my phone.

 

FWIW removing the IACV will not make it easy. It will only make it easier lol.

It's still a little rough to get the clip on, but I have small hands and was able to do it without removing the UIM.

 

Dragon, you could technically do the coolant bypass by connecting the hose that goes onto the far side nipple with the one that goes onto the near side one via a hose connector but some people stand by that mod and some don't. That would save you the hassle.

 

i just used an extra long piece of hose in that spot. enough length that i could hold the UIM up and away from that area, connect everything, but not too much that it would contact the exhaust manifolds. made everything a LOT easier!

 

The Egr guide tube supports it enough. Should only take you 30min to take it back off to reconnect that hose.

 

FINALLY DONE!!!

First, thanks everyone again. Removing the IACV did not work. The clamp was just too tight so off the UIM went again. Even with the UIM removed the stock clamp would not clear over the little bump so I remember the sugestion about using a threaded hose clamp. In luck I had one lying around.

About 2 hours later I'm done. I'm editing my original post and add threaded HOSE CLAMP as #1 tip.

Overall, the whole project should take 4-5 hours depending on how much cleaning and if you're also doing a tune-up.

Gotta LOVE this org.

BTW, only regret the 2nd time in is that I didn't retorque the rear valve cover bolts. Cross my fingers I got it right the first time.

Off to my next project: redoing my 350z seat cushions.

 

your what?

 

yet absolutely no one, has ever come up with a reason what problems it would cause.

Everyone just says "it's there for a reason" which is true, but that reason could be easier installation of the engine into the car on the assembly line. Or it makes testing the engine before installing it into the car easier....sure there could be all sorts of reasons, of course that doesn't mean it makes the car functionally any different if you bypass that connection

 

Sorry meant cyl 3 fuel injector (the typo monster strikes again!)

 

I'm glad you said that and I'm hoping your right - I got given a MEVI but the coolant nipple on the MEVI has broken off so I'm forced to do the bypass if I'm to install it