95MAXTAX

Thats right.. I have gone through two sets of rims and the car still shakes!!

After I bought my 95 GLE, I had to get rid of those ridiculous honey comb rims that came stock on it. I purchased a set of 18X7 Montegi MR7s with 225/40 18 tires on it. To make a long story short the car rode terrible and at highway speeds (above 60) the car would shake terribly. I thought it was a balancing issue but after getting them re-balanced countless times, nothing helped. SO, I returned them and got the same style wheel except 17X7 with 235/50 17 to get some more rubber on the wheel. Well, I have the same problem and the cars gets the shakes not only in the steering wheel but from the back too.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!


Any ideas???

521921

How are the rotors? (front and back)

Alignement?

Finally, my steering rack on my '91 240sx is broken and causes quite violent shaking at 60mph.

Dave B

The ride is bad because you're running a much lower profile tire and you increased the unsprung weight of your wheels which makes a huge difference in ride quality. Every single pound counts and those Montegi's are HEAVY.

Does the car shake with the stock rims? If it does, then it could be bad wheel bearings, worn suspension components (how many miles on the car), or warped rotors. If the car doesn't shake with the stock rims, then it's the aftermarket rims. Take them to another shop for balancing.


Dave

Maury

iTrader: (1)

did the stock honeycombs cause your max to shake at all? i've heard other members here say that 18's compared to 15' will cause your ride to suffer somewhat, but i don't remember anyone saying "shakes". maybe one of the new rims is bad? sorry, just thinking out loud, maybe someone else here can point you in the right direction? good luck

95MAXTAX

Thats right.. I have gone through two sets of rims and the car still shakes!!

After I bought my 95 GLE, I had to get rid of those ridiculous honey comb rims that came stock on it. I purchased a set of 18X7 Montegi MR7s with 225/40 18 tires on it. To make a long story short the car rode terrible and at highway speeds (above 60) the car would shake terribly. I thought it was a balancing issue but after getting them re-balanced countless times, nothing helped. SO, I returned them and got the same style wheel except 17X7 with 235/50 17 to get some more rubber on the wheel. Well, I have the same problem and the cars gets the shakes not only in the steering wheel but from the back too.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!


Any ideas???

roruiz

Have the alignment checked, If that doesn't solve the problem, check for worn suspension parts such as struts and bushings.

My car use to shake at around 70 mph. My struts and shocks were shot so the alignment didn't hold for long and it began shaking again. When I lowered the car I replaced the struts/shocks and busings (which were all beat up) and got it aligned. The car ride fine now.

95MAXTAX

The car doesn't shake when the original wheels are on the car. Which probably tell me that the weight might be playing a large part in the shaking. Should I go for a light rim? How about the 16 inch SE wheels made by nissan? Are they near the same weight as the original wheels?
Thanks for your help.

Dave

BlancMax

just a few quick questions:

1. Did it drive like that before you took off the stock wheels?
2. Did you have the car aligned? (I'm sure you already thought of that, but I thought I'd ask anyway.)
3. Has the car ever been wrecked?

I have a 96 GLE and I just replaced those nasty honeycomb wheels as well with OEM 2000 SE 16 X 6.5 rims with Michelin MXV4 PLUS 215/55/16 tires. I've only taken it up to about 95 mph but it rides as smooth as silk. I'm attaching a pic just because it looks soooo much better.

nymjayjay

I would say you need an allignment* i mean my max shakes very little on the highway, yes it is bad with bumps but yea thats what i get for getting 18's. oh well i will deal. Where you old ones balanced also thats could be another factor. Here are some pics of my max for anyone wants to see, :O)

Jay from CT

nymjayjay

I would say you need an allignment* i mean my max shakes very little on the highway, yes it is bad with bumps but yea thats what i get for getting 18's. oh well i will deal. Where you old ones balanced also thats could be another factor. Here are some pics of my max for anyone wants to see, :O)

Jay from CT

breaux124

iTrader: (1)

Volk or Racing hart make nice lightweight wheels, but $$$$

nymjayjay

I would say you need an allignment* i mean my max shakes very little on the highway, yes it is bad with bumps but yea thats what i get for getting 18's. oh well i will deal. Where you old ones balanced also thats could be another factor.

Jay from CT

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

I'm running 17X8 with Dunlop SP8000 235/45/ZR17 and KYB AGX's. The car rides smooth as silk. Have your suspension checked out by a professional front end shop. Don't go to Firestone or anyplace like that. Chances are something is lose, worn out, or bent (hub?). Changing the struts about now isn't a bad idea either. They play an important role in holdng the wheel nice and firm as well because our cars don't have upper control arms. The strut actually acts as the upper control system on our front ends.

brubenstein

It sounds like Montegi MR7s just aren't very good wheels. The first thing you have to have done is have their run out checked: up and down and sided to side. If the wheels aren't true they can balance fine, but still shake the care. Nissan OEM wheels are of very high quality, even if you don't like how they look, and that's why you had a smooth ride before. Unless you are way out of alignment, and wore the tires funny, alignment has nothing to do shaking/vibration. Bad wheels/tires/balance is the cause of your problem.

VeeQueue

iTrader: (1)

did you get hubcentric rings for those motegi wheels?

RidinOnChrome

i know what ur goin threw i had 17's on my car and it shook no matter how many times i balanced the wheels.......now i changed my suspension (h&r's and 18's)and the car rides better then ever.....i cant understand it!

bullseye

You might have a slightly bent wheel. You might have a slight bulge in a tire. Maybe you didn't use the hub-centric ring to center the wheel on the hub. Maybe your car is out of alignment. There are many other possibilities...

puremax

Just buy a new car.

phatmax95

iTrader: (29)

now why would you do that??????

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Did you get the hub rings for the wheels?Not getting them are usually the main problem when buying aftermarket wheels and having vibrating problems. They keep the wheel centered after mounting them to the car.

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

I had that problem in my I30, it still shimmies around 65-75 but is smoother at 80. I still don't know why, so I just drive under 65 or over 80 works for me. I just chalked it up to the lower profile tires and bad Maryland roads.

party_boy

hmm well my sister crashed her car and with oem rims she had a shimmy also. The end result was some of the bushings were damaged and not replaced. *shietty repair shop* also the major part that caused the shimmy was that the steering control knuckle was slighly bent causing an insane shimmy.

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

but would her car level out at all other speeds? My car (smooth road) will drive so smoothly, just not in those speed range.

Vyrus

iTrader: (4)

Every time you make your wheel +1 size, you should expect it. Even from 15" to 16". Better looks = more wheel = less tire = worse ride.

-Cyrus

BRIGBOY

Unless it is defective rim or tire. Alignment is a possibility. As well as everything else stated above. I would start with an alignment if you havent had one lately.

I recently got a vibration when I hit 70mph. Its annoying getting your cigarettes cherry ashed off. I guess when I got my half shaft replaced, the alignment got knocked out of wack a bit.

DAREN

iTrader: (3)

make sure you have the proper hubcentric rings and the proper lugs for the wheels.

hub rings are vital for a smooth ride, get them on all 4 corners.

find out from the manufacturer/distributor what type of lugs are required for that wheel. most wheels have a cone/conical seat while others have shank lugs.

what method of balancing are they using. OEM wheel are "dynamicaly" balanced: - weights on both lips to blance the high spots on both sides of the wheel/tire.

some places will do a "static" balance: - where single weight is placed on the inner lip or a tape/stick on weight is placed on the in the center of the wheel to balance the overall high spot in the wheel/tire.

some balance machines have a "mag" or "alloy" setting that allows you to put a clip on weight on the inner lip and a tape weight on the inside (as close to the outer lip as possible)

hope this helps

cmcknite

Same thing is happening to me now. I hit a pothole pretty hard the other day. And now it vibrates above 60. I do have all the hubcentric rings so I know that's not it. I looked at my wheel and I don't see anything visibly wrong. I am going to get them rebalanced and hope that helps me. Maybe I slung a weight off or somethin'. By the way I have 18's.