ffcbairn

So I was going to work on my code 1008 when I noticed the inside belt (narrower of the two) had split off part of it and now only has 3 bands instead of 4. No problem, I bought a spare of each belt a while ago. So I jacked it up, took the wheel and plastic cover off, then i loosened the tensioner so i could take the bigger belt off to get to the little one. Problem is, I don't think the tensioner is moving. I loosened it all the way but it seems like the belt has the exact same tension on it and there is no slack so the belt still won't come off.

So, I am trying to figure out my next course of action. As best I could I soaked the tensioner in wd40 and there it sits now. If that won't loosen it should I just cut the bigger belt off (gonna replace that as well anyway) and try to remove the tensioner assembly and replace if necessary?

Probably just gonna leave the whole thing until tomorrow. Would everyone agree the tensioner is frozen? Not really sure how much slack you are supposed to have when it is at its loosest but I would imagine there should at least be some play.

If it does turn out to be frozen would a junk yard replacement be good or should I go for new?

NJ3ndri

I wouldnt cut the belt off until you are sure you can fix it. because then you have no belt and cant get the new one in. Make sure you get it off the right way.
2. If its a cheap part, might as well go buy it before the last minute when your car is up on jacks without a belt.

Just some precautions before you get to into it

Jesse729

There are 2 bolts to loosen the pulley. The bolt holding the pulley on is actually what holds the tension. The adjustment bolt just gets the pulley in place you can drive the car with out it. And what ever you do don't take the tensioner bolt all the way off it is a PIA to get back on.

ffcbairn

OK well that sounds a lot better than what I had planned lol. Tomorrow I shall loosen the bolt in the middle of the pulley and hopefully that will do it. When you say don't take the tensioner bolt all the way out that is the one you mean right? In the center of the pulley?

Edit: I found this diagram: Pulley Assembly

The bolt you mean for me to focus on is the one labeled 11926 right? Looks like it has a nut that attaches labeled 08911-3401a? What is the best way to loosen it? From memory it doesn't seem like it is gonna be easy to get to the inside of the pulley to hold the bolt.

Jriv815

Yeah, dont pull that nut all the way off. it really is a pain to get back in there.

Jesse729

You want to focus on the 089113401A nut. The bolt will lock it's self into a slot so you don't have to worry about holding it.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

That nut only requires 30 lbs of torque. While replacing my belts 2 years ago I broke the idler pulley nut and bolt after giving it too much torque. Like the earlier posts stated replacing those peices is not fun.

ffcbairn

Excellent thanks for the advice guys, I think it should go pretty smoothly now *knock*

wxm

iTrader: (2)

IIRC, before you loosen/tighten the tension adjustment bolt, you first need to loosen the pulley bolt which serves as a "locking" mechanism. Hopefully, you have not stripped the tensioner at this point.

ffcbairn

done and done. That smaller belt was an even bigger hassle. I had to go to the store to get a 14mm wrench because there isn't enough clearance on the pulley nut for a socket and wrench. The rear belt tensioner really worked my forearm and my hand is destroyed. Other than that I would say it went smoothly. At least now it's done and those belts should outlive the car.

now on to the original project, code 1008

mtxnissan2

im having a similiar product my tensioner keeps moving up and not staying down causing problems and this makes belt come extremely loose please help

mountain_max

Just a heads up to anyone who loosens the nut on the pulley and it still doesn't loosen when you adjust the nut on top.

It is possible (as I found in my case) for the bolt that holds the idler pulley to get out of the slot and shifted (turned left or right). This will create a nightmare for you since it is essentially keyed to fit in the slot only when aligned right. I had the best luck simply removing the entire assembly (3 bolts hold the tensioner assembly on) and then with a clear view of how it went together repositioning the bolt and putting it back together. If it is stuck in the extended position you will likely have to pull the side nut and pulley off to get to the bottom bolts holding the bracket on. Just don't loose any of the pieces and keep track of the order they come off in. The diagram in the section above will come in handy if you do loose track.

Best of luck and may the force be with you.
~Luke