ffcbairn

Car is throwing code 1008 EVAP canister purge volume control valve.

On the picture is it the part circled in red or the other round part that is labeled EVAP canister purge volume control valve? I disconnected the piece circled in red which cause the car to throw code 07 04 EVAP control system pressure sensor so I assume that is not the piece that is broken.

In searching there also seemed to be some who suggested the part is actually on the rear of the car opposite the muffler. I was just hoping to get some insight on this as I would like to try to get it fixed up tomorrow.

ATTappman

This is your EVAP purge volume control valve:

The part with the tan electrical connector with a "4" marked on it.

b_roadkid718

i need one too. who has one for sale???

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

does anyone know if you can disassemble the valve and clean it?

ajm8127

iTrader: (8)

Looks like it comes apart to me. You can look at the FSM and deduce the pinout of the stepper motor and check to make sure none of the coils are bad. If that checks out, I would think you may be able to clean it. I would try.

dkillahster

iTrader: (1)

Well, this thread is gonna be awesome.. actually i need one of those too since "coolant" went running through mine when i was changing valve covers. (connected the wrong hose)

SUBSCRIBED

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

The EVAP canister is in the rear of the vehicle, drivers side next to the gas tank.. That has a valve on it the shaft gets gets rusted and stuck. I cleaned mine with some fine sandpaper and have not had an issue in years. Hope I did not jinx myself :-)

dkillahster

iTrader: (1)

waits aren't they the same?

Evap "canister" purge valve and Evap Purge valve ? I'm confused

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

No, the EVAP canister purge valve is on the EVAP canister. That one is much more likely to have a problem due to it's exposure to moisture.

dkillahster

iTrader: (1)

oh, ok.. i gotta recheck my codes again, because after water got into my system it was showing codes to one of the evap purge valves.. i gotta figure out which one it is. but thanks for that. i might save a little money by not buying the wring part if it is wrong. Thanks again

ffcbairn

But if I disconnect that and run the car I got code 0704. If that was the problem shouldn't disconnecting that and running the car give me the same code as originally, 1008? If that is really the part I will change it but you can see already in this thread someone has brought up the part near the rear of the car which is what makes this so confusing.


Does anyone have a pic of the part near the gas tank? I am thinking I might start putting together a compendium of howtos and repair guides which will be linked to by the code the CEL puts out.

ajm8127

iTrader: (8)

HAHA, this is funny, why didn't they just number the stupid valves.

I think the valve at the rear of the vehicle, on the canister, is the EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve.

The EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve is located on top of the Upper Intake Manifold, and is black and cylindrical, having two large hoses and one small hose coming from it.

The EVAP Canister Purge Control Volume Valve is the valve pictured above, and goes from the purge control valve to the intake manifold. It throws code 1008, or P1445

There is a section in the Engine Control section of the FSM about how to troubleshoot it. If it passes the electrical test, and you are sure that the wires leading to it from the ECM are good, then it's probably just clogged/stuck. Try to open it up. Just be careful, those screws on it look very similar to the soft screws on some other components under the hood, don't strip them.

maxfever1987

iTrader: (93)

ANYONE NEEDS THIS I HAVE 4 REMAINING IN WORKING ORDER

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Code 1008 is related to the valve shown in the photo above, dkillahster, sorry if I steered you wrong. I really did not have time to reseach earlier. The valve near the canister is more likely to fail but that seems unlikely in your case,.

dkillahster

iTrader: (1)

How much? because i don't want to pay 358 dollars at the Nissan Stealership

ffcbairn

OK even though I am still not positive that is the part I went to the junk yard, pulled one, and replaced.

I can say this, the part changed at some point during 4th gen production. I have a 95 and my one is like the one in the picture. The one I pulled was from a 98, it has a plastic body instead of metal and overall is shorter by about an inch. I will post side by side pics later.

Installed at the junk yard and drove home about 15 miles with no return of CEL so hopefully it's fixed but I will know after I've driven for a couple days. I only paid $20 for it so it might be worth people's time to pull one from a junk yard if they can find it, this in itself was hard because it mounts to the motor most junk yards pull the motor and won't pull parts off it (even though it's not part of the motor they still wouldn't sell it to me). In the end I found one max out of 3 junk yards (looked at about 15 total max/i30) that still had the motor and this part.

ffcbairn

The black plastic one is the replacement pulled from a 98max. The metal one is the dud from my 95. For anyone looking to replace theirs I would say look for the plastic ones, obviously if Nissan changed it there had to be some motivation for that.

I've driven another 30 or so miles and still no CEL so hopefully that was indeed the problem.

flynlr

iTrader: (2)

here is another view of the same parts from 2009 when I did my 1008 code fix.
old *** bad part on left,
new part from courtesy with new bracket on the right

ffcbairn

ok so who wants to bet the black plastic ones don't fail like the metal ones do?

flynlr

iTrader: (2)

my first metal one lasted 10 years.. I drove it with the code for 4 and have the new one on for about 14 months now.

Robb13425

iTrader: (2)

I have a 96 max with the alum body valve pictured at the top. i picked up this one off a maxima built 10/98 from the junk yard. it is completely different and only has two wires. anyone know why the difference?

http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV3yrCi

http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV3yO3A

Robb13425

iTrader: (2)

how much?

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

That is not for the 95-97 max. That is form 98 onwards. It will not work in the 96. YOu need to get back the one displayed in the pic in the previous post. PM maxfever for one or go back to your JunkYard.

Robb13425

iTrader: (2)

that's what I figured, this previous post had me confused, and the fact I thought 95-99.5 were the same setup. good thing it was only $4+tax

Swazey

I have Evap codes as well, i get a strong raw gas smell if i fill my tank, my gas mileage is not as good as it used to be, there is a little loss of power and i noticed my exhaust (headers back) is producing waaaay more carbon than it ever has. i inspected all the vacuum lines and they all look good, the next step is to check the evap valve to see if it is working, if not try to fix it by hooking it up to a battery and spraying with wd40 or to get the canister replaced. lets hope its the valve not properly opening and closing before i have to replace the charcoal canister, and the wd40 gets the stuck valve moving again.

if you read in the haynes manual, it says that for 95 has a different type purge valve than 96, and all 4th gens from 96 on have the same type valve. it is explained in the links below. im glad im not the only one dealing with this problem

hope this info helps you guys, i've been searching online for 3 days now and its the most promising...

http://www.lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A3.../NTB00-060.pdf

http://www.aa1car.com/library/evap_n...ntb00-085a.pdf

ill post any results i have once i get some time to, hopefully tomorrow evening

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Exactly what are your EVAP codes?? If you want us to help you narrow down to your problem, we need to see the codes you have stored. All of them.

Swazey

i had a few, including knock sensor. i replaced the knock sensor and removed and cleaned out my Evap canister vent control valve because the plunger was completely stuck. after clearing ecu and driving for less than 10 mins i imdtly pull 0807 or 0111 which is the valve failure. Bought a new canister and control valve from salvage yard for $75 shipped, lets hope this helps.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Maybe you should focus on 0807. That points to the solenoid next to the MAP/Baro solenoid.

StylezTA

I AM GOING thru this exact thing. looking to replace that valve. my buddy got me the black one which obviously doesn't fit seeing i have a 97. the original is like 30 dollars more from the stealership then that black one. sucks

Swazey

what is the name of the solenoid next to the MAP/Baro solenoid? i can't seem to find it.

JAYSHAWN31

[quote=dkillahster;7495929]waits aren't they the same?

Evap "canister" purge valve and Evap Purge valve ? I'm confused

does anyone have a picture of the purge volume control valve that goes
in the evap canister by the left rear tire

wirelessdude04

iTrader: (24)

Dont need that stuff. Eff EVAP and all that extra crap

sparky1562

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...p1445-dtc.html

Post 5, PDF diagram. I dont have a picture but this should show you what it looks like.

The purge volume control valve is not at the evap canister, it is on top of the intake...

joseph.mcgowen

my 96 was throwing the 1445 i got a new purge volume control valve it is no longer throwing the code and doesnt smell like its running so rich but still has some power loss and runs a little rough still it also stutters around 40mph with a light foot i have to give it some pedal to get it to stop

Bodie

Hey Max, seeking info on this old thread - 2011. Do you still have the "EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valves" (mounts on the engine intake)? If so, do they pass the "ohms" testing and how much are you asking". I have a 96' Nissan Maxima.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You are probably wasting your time posting here - old, dead thread.

I would suggest the CLASSIFIED section, specifically the 4th gen thread

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...-1995-1999-43/