OIL LEAK
#2
#10
Unfortunately it does look a lot the infamous rear timing case o rings leak. I've heard between $1200 and $2700 for the whole job. It's tedious and takes a lot of time. I think the first time I did it it took me and my bro in law 3 full days. Plus I got my timing off cause I was inexperienced and didn't turn the crank by hand before putting it back together. I killed 2 cylinders and ~$400 later I'm almost finished putting the car back together after getting a valve job done on the cylinder head. You should think of a few things:
-How much money do you make?
-How much free time do you have?
-How much do you know about cars (timing gear and stuff)?
-Do you have a friend willing to help? (there's several parts that really suck if you're on your own)
The parts for the job are dirt cheap. It's just a tube of RTV and a couple o rings, but there are some other things you should do while your in there or you'll hate yourself later (i.e. water pump, timing chain guide and tensioner, front oil seal, valve cover gaskets...).
I definitely don't advocate paying a mechanic when you can do it yourself. With this extensive of a job I personally wouldn't trust a mechanic to do everything right. At the same time if I knew a mech that I knew for sure would do it right I would probably pay like $600 maximum. Past that and it's better for me to do it my self.
#12
this is the TT max guy right? im sure he has money.
quite honestly i would swap in a 3.0 and call it a day for 300. not worth the effort to change all that crap for a DD max that you would throw away at a moments notice
quite honestly i would swap in a 3.0 and call it a day for 300. not worth the effort to change all that crap for a DD max that you would throw away at a moments notice
#13
I don't have an engine hoist... just a 160 pc craftsman set otherwise I would probably have
-bought a $300 engine
-replaced the o rings while it was out of the car
-swapped it in
-fixed the other engine
-sold the old one for $300
#14
yes its me but this car is gone anyone want parts i an just going to donate the car that's it i am going to start taking my system out. any way my friend is doing the wiring on the other car so look for first stary up clip on saturday
#16
Have you changed your oil weight around the time this started by any chance? sometimes engine tollerances aren't what they used to be and running say a 5W engine oil will leak while a 10W won't. I've changed to 5W and a leak appeared, changed back to 10W and it was gone. More of an issue with higher millage engines but a hell of a lot cheaper and easier than rear main.
#17
ok so i am going to change the gasket on the upper and lower oil pan cause there is no oil on the block just on the control arms and stuff, I went to o reille's and the guy told me to use 20w 30 or some heave oil cause the maxima uses heavy oil the car has 197 on it which oil to get
#18
ok so i am going to change the gasket on the upper and lower oil pan cause there is no oil on the block just on the control arms and stuff, I went to o reille's and the guy told me to use 20w 30 or some heave oil cause the maxima uses heavy oil the car has 197 on it which oil to get
Someone told me to swtich to 20w50 seeing that I have 298K but I choose to go Castril GTX High Mileage 10w40. I need to do the same but I am going to get thr RTV from the dealer and find someone with an engine hoist. Want to do it the proper way with tranny off.
#26
You should take pictures a little higher on the motor, such as the valve cover gasket areas. Oil leaks should always be addressed with the highest leak taken care of first. You also desperately need a new belt.
#28
#29
could easily also be your power steering fluid. I just got done fixing RMS and valve covers...and i'm pretty sure it was done good, saw a small leak and the power steering hose is wet and pass axel is wet as well.
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