Stalling is back, new clues, please help...
05-08-2010, 03:42 PM
#1
Stalling is back, new clues, please help...
Ok. Recap: had the stuttering stalling issues; cleaned very dirty IACV and throttle body. No help. Tried cleaning MAF sensor which fixed the issues but I did not see until after I wasn't supposed to take the 4 screws off. I guess I got lucky because it ran great until... The heat came. Now that is 80 and 90 all of a sudden it died it's first time the other day. Then repeat...
Here's where I need help. I've read on here that if you unplug the MAF and it runs fine, there is your problem. When I went to test this, the car died as soon as I even touched the clip, like from the wires moving. As noted, cleaning it did help. Yesterday and right now as I sit where I limped in, I have unplugged the MAF sensor and the car will die very infrequently but still just sputter out. From what I have seen, if it were truly just that sensor, the car would stay running.
You guys have been great help so far, I hope I can get to the bottom of this with my fledgling mechanical skills. I also have a p0325 knock sensor and p1441 vacuum bypass cut valve. Was gonna adress those soon but now back to square one!
Help!
Dom
Here's where I need help. I've read on here that if you unplug the MAF and it runs fine, there is your problem. When I went to test this, the car died as soon as I even touched the clip, like from the wires moving. As noted, cleaning it did help. Yesterday and right now as I sit where I limped in, I have unplugged the MAF sensor and the car will die very infrequently but still just sputter out. From what I have seen, if it were truly just that sensor, the car would stay running.
You guys have been great help so far, I hope I can get to the bottom of this with my fledgling mechanical skills. I also have a p0325 knock sensor and p1441 vacuum bypass cut valve. Was gonna adress those soon but now back to square one!
Help!
Dom
05-08-2010, 03:56 PM
#2
Update: it's been running fine (other than the fact I can't top 2500 rpms) for about twenty minutes with the maf sensor unplugged. In park idling at 1100 w ac running. It has had two instances of dropping brieFly to 900 but I think that's the ac.
Dom
Dom
05-08-2010, 04:34 PM
#4
maf connector could be bad mine would stall an die all the time an if i disconected it and plug it back in it would run fine for a day sometimes just an hour this was last summer i finally just tried a new connector harness still didnt work so i just soldered the wires dirrectly to the maf havent had an issue in a year
05-09-2010, 08:37 PM
#6
Do you think that because it is intermittent? How would I go about this, not really used to working with wires. Should I just get another one with some of the wire attached then splice all of the wires together?
Dom
Dom
05-10-2010, 04:34 AM
#7
No, what I would do is buy a multi-meter for about $25 and follow the maf harness test procedures in the nissan dealer repair manual. If you don't want to test or learn "how to", then goto the junkyard and buy a used maf and also try to get the harness and splice it in. Then just cross your fingers.
05-10-2010, 08:33 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
Bad connector my friend. Jus go to JY and find a new connector and splice that in.
u have already troubleshooted it urself and u know its the MAF. U may need a new MAF, but if u wiggle the connector and the car tries to short off then the connector is bad. I can wiggle my connector and car runs fine.
05-10-2010, 10:50 AM
#9
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Car stalled with the MAF unplugged - in limp mode.
MAF isn't your problem, do make sure the connector is in good shape when you plug it back in.
Fix this - p1441 vacuum bypass cut valve
See if it still stalls.
MAF isn't your problem, do make sure the connector is in good shape when you plug it back in.
Fix this - p1441 vacuum bypass cut valve
See if it still stalls.
05-10-2010, 11:32 AM
#10
I'm almost wondering if it's not the maf connector because it does die when I touch it AND another problem like the p1441. The day I had all these issues, I left it unplugged and limped where I needed to go. It only died two times compared to nonstop. After sitting six or seven hours, when I tried to go home it would hardly start and stalled immediately with the maf unplugged.
I plugged it back in and the car drove fine and it has up until now. Drove it some yesterday in the heat but not a lot.
For that p1441 code should I just change the actual valve? Also to the poster above, I'm more than happy to learn 'how to' as evidenced by my visiting these forums and the work I have done. I just don't know how to use a multimeter to test. I found the Nissan procedure for testing the connector but not the maf itself. I worry though thy since the problem is intermittent, testing may not do the trick.
I'm willing to do anything I can to save money and this car, I just need a little more guidance as I'm still learning. Thanks for all the replies so far!
Dom
I plugged it back in and the car drove fine and it has up until now. Drove it some yesterday in the heat but not a lot.
For that p1441 code should I just change the actual valve? Also to the poster above, I'm more than happy to learn 'how to' as evidenced by my visiting these forums and the work I have done. I just don't know how to use a multimeter to test. I found the Nissan procedure for testing the connector but not the maf itself. I worry though thy since the problem is intermittent, testing may not do the trick.
I'm willing to do anything I can to save money and this car, I just need a little more guidance as I'm still learning. Thanks for all the replies so far!
Dom
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