Air intake all good? Sensors all plugged in?

 

Well car is still down, I cleaned and reinstalled both crank sensors, that was a no go. I disconnected the maf and that gave the same results. I checked the spark plugs, all smell like gas. So, Im wondering if the arent getting any spark, I tested one coil pack so far, it was number 2 it gave a yellowish orangish spark. I read that a good coil pack is suppose to be a bluish spark so and this spark means its weak or bad. Im going to test all of them and see what happens. Now, I have a question if I test all of them and they all give the same spark what could the issue be then?

 

I had something similar happen once. In that case my main ground cable had not been tightened back down to the motor correctly by a mechanic and it slowly built up corrosion until it wouldn't run correctly or even start.

Probably not your problem, but figured I'd throw it out there.

 

check for compression.

 

I thought about compression test but I dont have a compression tester. I told my father in law about it. He said he thinks he has one so im just waiting on him for that. For now Im stuck with what I have.

 

hey, just noticed this thread... read it all... wondering if you ever got her up and running again...

also, id have to say im with a couple of the guys on a bad ground... my 96 5spd had a crappy ground wire on the battery... took me a frigin week to figure it out. went through all the same stuff... mine started out more subtle though. radio and lights and electronics would flash or dim... sometimes the car would just die all of a sudden... and then one day (the 3rd day of the week it was doing this) i was just driving down the road, about to pull on to my street and same thing happened, all the lights flashed as i made my quick turn and the car died and i lost power steering, then my wheel locked up as i steered towards the curb...

i took the battery to autozone, got it checked out and recharged what little was needed... put it back in and nothin... tried jumping it... nothin... the last day i had the problem i even tried push starting it down the street and it would turn for a second then die... after that, i just went and started tightening any ground i could find... then it cranked...

sorry, long story. but it seems like the same exact thing... anywho, hope you got it figured out...

 

Reviving this thread. The car never got started back up its on jack stands in my garage and has been that way for almost a year. I sold my silver max due to some bad financial decisions so now Im back to the black 95 max which is this one. We have one car, and having one car sucks ***. For now it needs a new battery. Ive sanded the negative cable contacts down and cleaned them all and added 2 4 gauge wires one to the bellhousing and the other to the body just to see if that would help. Checking the IACV and cleaning it as well. The battery is the biggest thing at this point because it is dead and I just need a new one to continue troubleshooting.

 

Sure hope doing all that helps man. I wish I could provide more input, but at this point, I believe sometimes just the maintenance and cleaning aspects of it play a huge role in starting or not.


Good luck!

 

besides the point but wtf i go to autozone all the time and they say that they cant check my 95 max cause its too "old"

 

AutoZone quit doing the "engine code" service since a while back. And just say it's a 96 though the OBII port is on the oposite side where the left leg of the passenger side would be.

 

Damn, long time for a car to be down. To eliminate a grounding issue grab your jumper cable. Use either both red clamps or black. Hook one up to the negative battery terminal and one to the engine. Or you can measure resistance between battery negative terminal and chasis/engine. Lets completely rule out a grounding issue then go from there. just because you sanded the terminals does NOT mean the cable is good, it could easily have internal resistance somewhere else.

Basically the way I diagnose a no start condition is 3 steps. Fuel, spark, and compression. All three are needed for an engine to run. Finding spark is easy, you can just pull a coil and hold it over a stud or whatever and make sure it arcs. Fuel can be tricky without a fuel pressure guage. But not impossible. Remove either the fuel rail or one injector and have someone crank the motor. If fuel comes gushin out move on. Last check compression. Obviously a guage is needed for this. These 3 basic items should be checked first. Of course other things are needed for an engne to run but these are most basic. Please try what I have recomended and report back. Oh, and to put to bed the chain issue its simple. Open the oil cap and look at the camshaft. Have someone crank the motor over. If you see the camshaft spinnin its obviously not broke. Not to mention a chain breakin is retardedly rare.

 

OBD II became mandatory in 96 but some cars were equipped with it in 95 such as ours. Like SBKMax96 said your OBDII port is on the passenger side behind the cover under the center of the dash.


I just had my codes read for free at autozone here in NJ

 

Damn, really? California is ****ing gay then! I had to buy the reader from them.


Well, at least I now have it at my disposal...