I have a service engine soon light on and the OB computer is showing 0512; Downstream oxygen sensor high voltage fault.

Cannot find anything in the Hows to's to replace, and just found out there are actually THREE such sensors in the vehicle.

Anyone know of good online store, w/o exhorbitant duty charges, I am in the Great White north.

 

TO replace the o2 sensors, you just need to rent the o2 sensor removal tool from a local auto parts store and it just screws out like a bolt.

As for where to buy, does rockauto ship to canada?

 

Sparkplugs.com and tell them you're from maxima.org, they'll give you a discount. Don't know if they do Canada.

Just bought a Denso 02 from them, and am happy.

 

Downstream O2 sensor is AFTER the cat, and theres only one of those. If you have to pass inspections in the Great White North you should replace it. If you don't, you dont have to replace it immediately, after cat sensor only monitors cat effeciency.. +1 on rockauto.com.

 

thanks, shipping costs almost as much as the part.

 

I got the denso sensors from amazon, free shipping.

 

+1 I also found the best O2 prices on Amazon.

 

if either the O2 sensors go bad will they cause great interruption in the engine performance, or cause the car to hesitate, studder, stall and get poor gas mileage?? I am having issues with this kind of performance....we replaced the knock sensor which was bad....but no other codes are coming up and i even changed out the computer....car still stalling and chokes on acceleration as well.....can someone help???

 

ECTS engine coolant temperature sensor.

 

even if the car does not show signs of overheating or temperature change? that was one of the sensors we also tested, and it checked out good? any other thoughts?

 

BTW I suspect that you are seeing 0S12 not 0512 on the scan tool.

 

 

OK I checked the local Part Source store, $159, but was told there are two downstream O2 sensors. One left and one right?

 

Amazon.ca has nothing.

Is the Denso universal for all vehicles, or what part# specific for Maxima?

 

Denso 234-3098 (with OEM connector, no splicing) for the two before the cat.

 

thanks, but I believe that is the upstream. Called Rock Auto and downstream sensor it is Denso 234-4716
for $54.96USD + $20 shipping.

I need to confirm there is no right and left for this one.

 

I am looking at the invoice for Denso 234-4716 (this the premium OEM, or whatever) that I just replaced, and I paid total 64.13 shipped ground from Cali to NY. Sparkplugs.com and mention maxima.org, they give you 10% off. There is some sort of discount code, but I didn't know what the hell it was so I just put "do you still give discounts to maxima.org members" in the "special instructions" section on the order form. That worked for the 10%. There is no right or left. You can reach it with your hand on the drivers side. There is no soldering, just plug and play, and it cometh with anti-seize compound and instructions. The "use soapy water" tip works by the way....

 

I hate to contribute to the horing of OPs' thread, but ECTS tells the ECM how warm the engine is, for air/fuel ratio purposes. A f***ed sensor will say the motor is always cold, and it will be like trying to drive an old car with the choke on, rich as hell and running crappy. Has nothing to do with how warm the engine actually is or what the gauge says.

 

Awesome...sounds exactly like what is going on. thank you very much for the info....we will be sure to check that tomorrow!

 

Thanks for the info and part verification. Rockauto.com is cheaper.

 

ok strike 10 with this issues...checked ECTS (good) but found a corroded connector on another sensor or ground right in front of ECTS - was not able 2 verify what it was in the manual (reminded me of old school theromstat) cleaned it off and replaced connector (no changes)...also checked plugs/coils/injectors..all tested good. no other codes came up...waited couples 2 take breather and re-think possible problem...came back test drove car, couldn't simulate same issue, no stalling, but did stumble and choke upon acceleration, then recovered....gave up for a while, came back and checked codes just for giggles and popped up with P0136-oxygen sensor of faulty circuit...so not sure anymore...gonna double check again in morning...any other ideas??

 

http://www.oxygensensors.com/

They also ship US Postal Service for those people who live outside the 48 states.

 

I'd say skip that parts store than, there is only ONE downstream sensor there are two upstream sensors hence the left and right. I'd go back and tell them they are morons and to give you the ONE you need for free for not knowing their S**T.

 

They don't have Denso, only universal for a similar price.

 

I just received the unit and the instructions are confusing. Did you use electrical tape as the wires are exposed at both ends?

 

This instructions from this site seem to be the most useful:
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/max...o2-sensor.html

Downstream O2 sensor:

Necessary tools:
*12mm wrench
*OEM downstream O2 sensor
*Anti-seize
*PB Blaster (or WD40)
*Scissors

1. Put the rear end of the car on ramps or jackstands

2. Locate the downstream O2 sensor; it is in rear-half the catalytic converter, on the driver’s side (middle of the car is where you should be looking)

3. Spray the sensor with PB Blaster or WD40

4. Trace the harness to the underbody of the car

5. Pull on the harness until the rubber seal pops free

6. Disconnect the old sensor from the harness

7. Apply anti-seize to the new O2 sensor (if it doesn’t already have some); take care not to get the compound on the sensor head (The threads right?)

8. Screw in the sensor

9. Connect the new sensor to the harness

10. Jam the excess wiring back into the hole and close it up with the rubber seal

11. Using one of the supplied zip ties, secure any slack wiring. (N/A)

 

I am not sure the 12 mm will be useful, it's a 22mm more likely. I used an adjustable wrench and drove up on a curve to elevate the car. I did tape the sensor end of the protective wire cover , the other end hides in the channel under the car. When you look at the sensor underneath the car, confusion will become understanding... )). Just do it.

 

SEIZED

 

tap the wrench with a hammer

 

all did that:

1. Drench area with PB Blaster

2. Use a hammer on wrench

3. Blow torched area

4. Lots of swearing...

 

1. Use a socket and a large impact gun?
2. Use a socket with a long breaker bar?
3. Use a high heat torch (not sure about your blow torch)?
4. Use two combination wrenches (one to increase moment arm)?

 

I'm taking it in. My back can only endure so much.

Even the garages don't look forward to it.

 

Seriously!! Mine were baked in so bad that after a month of trying to break them loose, I just gave up. Brought it to Meineke and they "relucantly" quoted me $80 for labor to take care of 3 sensors and gladly smiled and said yes... Took 2 guys an hour to get them out -- It was the most satisfying $80 I spent on the car so far...

 

I just bought a warspeed Y pipe and high flow Cat. The old 02 sensor that was in the old cat is junk (rusted to heck and fell out of the old cat). I would like to know if it would be ok to not replace the rear O2 sensor and just put a bolt in bung. What will happen if I decide to not replace the rear O2 sensor right after the rear cat? Thanks

 

I took it to a garage who did the torch thing and easily removed it for only $30.

I think if a I had a 1/2" ratchet, I could have done it as well. I also did the torch thing too.

 

It doesn't affect how your engine will run but you will have a check engine light.

 

Cool Thanks.

 

I'm in the process of replacing my whole exhaust except the manifolds. Everything came off fine but I cannot get that downstream O2 sensor out of the intermediate (sensor) pipe. I stripped the O2 sesnor with a 22mm open wrench so I ordered a new downstream O2 sensor from rockauto.com for $50.
Before I get that sensor early next week what size bolt do I need to temporarily put in my extended b-pipe to fill the bung? Does anyone know the threading of these O2 sensors? Peaking at the 2 upstream O2 sensors it looks like maybe a 1.5 thread?

EDIT:

I just got the specifications from advanceautoparts.com

18x1.5mm

If anyone ever needs to bolt up an O2 sensor bung just use that bolt