semi-push button start installation tutorial. (6 bucks lol)
10-22-2010, 03:35 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 67
semi-push button start installation tutorial. (6 bucks lol)
NOTICE: This is only to bypass a broken ignition switch. Having this button will only be redundant if your switch works.
I personally did it from looking at a diagram so this tutorial will help you complete this project without the difficulties I came across.
I didn't do this because I wanted to be cool; the ignition switch is messed up and I didn't feel like digging into my dash that deep. I actually can't say which is easier, to replace the damned thing or install a push button to by-pass it because there were so many wires to look at.
The reason I say semi-push button is because I have to hold the key in the start position or else the engine won't catch. Not sure why... if anyone knows why, I would love to know.
Anyway... to the meat of my post.
You will need maybe 6 bucks worth of materials. At the most 10. You can get these at your local OSH or Home Depot; choose to your liking. For this case, I found OSH to be cheaper btw.
-a two terminal push button (normally off, this is very very crucial for it to be normally off). it should be the one with the black button.
-a pack of 12-10 AWG wire taps. the pack calls them Tap Splices. they're a banana yellow color. they come in packs of three. you only need two for this project.
-screwdriver
-pliers.
-maybe something to cut some tape. Preferably a samurai sword (katana).
-two feet of 12 gauge wire (2x one foot lengths)
I have pictures of it after I completed the project. I didn't think I was going to share it with anyone.
Step0
Disconnect battery.
Step1
Locate the screws on the driver's side dash. There are two on the two bottom corners and there are clips elsewhere that shouldn't give you any trouble. One of the screws is above the hood latch handle. And the other on the bottom right. Remove panel. There will be a wire connected to the panel, take that off. It will seriously get in you way.
Step2
Locate the wire harness. If it's wrapped with tape, split into the tape to expose two black wires one with a yellow stripe and the other with a white stripe.
Step3
Splice a foot of wire onto the black wire with yellow stripe and the same for the black wire with the white stripe. Shown in picture above.
(to use a wire tap: http://waterforoil.blogspot.com/2008...onnectors.html)
Step4
Now you should have two unconnected wires flying out of your dash.
Connect those to the two terminals on the push button.
Step5
Connect your battery and give it a shot. Turn your key all the way and press the button, when and if the engine catches let go of the key and button. (duh). If it works, yay, from this point on it's not necessary to disconnect the battery but do as you please.
Step6
Where you install the button doesn't matter obviously. I chose to drill a hole on the left side so I can turn the key with my right and press the button with my left.
I put it on the fuse panel cover.
BOOM! put it back together and you got yourself a cheap and easy fix for a broken ignition switch.
I personally did it from looking at a diagram so this tutorial will help you complete this project without the difficulties I came across.
I didn't do this because I wanted to be cool; the ignition switch is messed up and I didn't feel like digging into my dash that deep. I actually can't say which is easier, to replace the damned thing or install a push button to by-pass it because there were so many wires to look at.
The reason I say semi-push button is because I have to hold the key in the start position or else the engine won't catch. Not sure why... if anyone knows why, I would love to know.
Anyway... to the meat of my post.
You will need maybe 6 bucks worth of materials. At the most 10. You can get these at your local OSH or Home Depot; choose to your liking. For this case, I found OSH to be cheaper btw.
-a two terminal push button (normally off, this is very very crucial for it to be normally off). it should be the one with the black button.
-a pack of 12-10 AWG wire taps. the pack calls them Tap Splices. they're a banana yellow color. they come in packs of three. you only need two for this project.
-screwdriver
-pliers.
-maybe something to cut some tape. Preferably a samurai sword (katana).
-two feet of 12 gauge wire (2x one foot lengths)
I have pictures of it after I completed the project. I didn't think I was going to share it with anyone.
Step0
Disconnect battery.
Step1
Locate the screws on the driver's side dash. There are two on the two bottom corners and there are clips elsewhere that shouldn't give you any trouble. One of the screws is above the hood latch handle. And the other on the bottom right. Remove panel. There will be a wire connected to the panel, take that off. It will seriously get in you way.
Step2
Locate the wire harness. If it's wrapped with tape, split into the tape to expose two black wires one with a yellow stripe and the other with a white stripe.
Step3
Splice a foot of wire onto the black wire with yellow stripe and the same for the black wire with the white stripe. Shown in picture above.
(to use a wire tap: http://waterforoil.blogspot.com/2008...onnectors.html)
Step4
Now you should have two unconnected wires flying out of your dash.
Connect those to the two terminals on the push button.
Step5
Connect your battery and give it a shot. Turn your key all the way and press the button, when and if the engine catches let go of the key and button. (duh). If it works, yay, from this point on it's not necessary to disconnect the battery but do as you please.
Step6
Where you install the button doesn't matter obviously. I chose to drill a hole on the left side so I can turn the key with my right and press the button with my left.
I put it on the fuse panel cover.
BOOM! put it back together and you got yourself a cheap and easy fix for a broken ignition switch.
Last edited by bnrz; 10-22-2010 at 03:52 PM.
10-22-2010, 04:01 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 67
don't hate. just a little show-how for people who want to do this.
the only thing i wanted to share is which wires to look for. and what to put on them.
doesn't really matter HOW they put it on.
10-23-2010, 08:52 PM
#7
The reason I say semi-push button is because I have to hold the key in the start position or else the engine won't catch. Not sure why... if anyone knows why, I would love to know.
Step2
Locate the wire harness. If it's wrapped with tape, split into the tape to expose two black wires one with a yellow stripe and the other with a white stripe.
Step2
Locate the wire harness. If it's wrapped with tape, split into the tape to expose two black wires one with a yellow stripe and the other with a white stripe.
When you turn the key to the start position, the ignition switch sends power down the black with white stripe wire to the starter solenoid. The ignition switch gets the power from a white with purple stripe wire. I don't know what the black/yellow stripe wire is used for. It might not have power in it all the time.
10-24-2010, 11:04 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 67
The problem might be that you are using the black with yellow stripe wire.
When you turn the key to the start position, the ignition switch sends power down the black with white stripe wire to the starter solenoid. The ignition switch gets the power from a white with purple stripe wire. I don't know what the black/yellow stripe wire is used for. It might not have power in it all the time.
When you turn the key to the start position, the ignition switch sends power down the black with white stripe wire to the starter solenoid. The ignition switch gets the power from a white with purple stripe wire. I don't know what the black/yellow stripe wire is used for. It might not have power in it all the time.
10-25-2010, 01:39 PM
#9
My first three suggestions are to replace the starter switch. It's about $35 at your friendly dealer and not that hard to install. It took me about a half hour to change mine and I had never done that before. I bet you worked harder to put the switch in.
That said, you can try using the white/purple wire on the switch instead of the black/yellow, since that is what the ignition switch uses. I can't guarantee that it will work because the ignition switch has multiple connections inside it and may be doing something with the immobilizer circuit. You could bypass the immobilizer circuit by running a wire from your switch to the small wire on the starter solenoid, but that would probably take at least twice as long as what you have done already.
That said, you can try using the white/purple wire on the switch instead of the black/yellow, since that is what the ignition switch uses. I can't guarantee that it will work because the ignition switch has multiple connections inside it and may be doing something with the immobilizer circuit. You could bypass the immobilizer circuit by running a wire from your switch to the small wire on the starter solenoid, but that would probably take at least twice as long as what you have done already.
10-25-2010, 02:19 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 67
yeah... at the time i couldn't really get my hands on a switch (there was too much space in my wallet).
and since my problem was sorta fixed, i didn't really feel like bothering with it anymore.
i should take out the button... but it works nonetheless. :] i probably will take it out soon though.
and since my problem was sorta fixed, i didn't really feel like bothering with it anymore.
i should take out the button... but it works nonetheless. :] i probably will take it out soon though.
06-10-2013, 06:57 AM
#11
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 6
Ignition Switch (Push Start Button)
Hello all (my first post in maxima.org),
Let's see if someone can help me out
I'm trying to install a push start button. (my ignition switch is dying, I just want to try this and document it.)
Can some one please explain ignition switch wires.
If possible, let me know how should I connect it.
Full Size image
Thank you all!
Let's see if someone can help me out
I'm trying to install a push start button. (my ignition switch is dying, I just want to try this and document it.)
Can some one please explain ignition switch wires.
If possible, let me know how should I connect it.
Full Size image
Thank you all!
06-10-2013, 08:04 AM
#12
The wires you need to tap are listed in the above posts.
As far as your push button starter..I've never seen one like that box..I hope it came with instructions.
Iirc, you will still need your key turned on to get the button to work~so your not really eliminating anything~just a cool factor, or a theft prevention possibility.
As far as the 1st post goes, people are saying he should have tapped the white wire with the purple strip to activate the starter..the ground should be obvious.
It's easier to just replace your switch.
I even have a spare one from a '97.
If your interesed, PM me.
As far as your push button starter..I've never seen one like that box..I hope it came with instructions.
Iirc, you will still need your key turned on to get the button to work~so your not really eliminating anything~just a cool factor, or a theft prevention possibility.
As far as the 1st post goes, people are saying he should have tapped the white wire with the purple strip to activate the starter..the ground should be obvious.
It's easier to just replace your switch.
I even have a spare one from a '97.
If your interesed, PM me.
Last edited by Fakie J Farkerton; 06-10-2013 at 08:07 AM.
06-10-2013, 09:25 AM
#13
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 6
Thanks for the reply.It did came with instructions but in mostly in Japanese
English Instructions:
Connect the Push Button Connector to the Relay Box
The black wire should be earthed to the metal bodywork of the car or the negative (-) side of the battery
The green wire should be connected to Terminal 15 (ign.) behind the Ignition Switch, with another one connecting Terminal 50 behind the Ignition Switch as well (The power path from ign. to the starting motor)
The red wire should be connected to Terminal 15 (The power path that passes through ign.)
Fix the Relay Box using the double-sided paste and screws provided in the package
The black wire should be earthed to the metal bodywork of the car or the negative (-) side of the battery
The green wire should be connected to Terminal 15 (ign.) behind the Ignition Switch, with another one connecting Terminal 50 behind the Ignition Switch as well (The power path from ign. to the starting motor)
The red wire should be connected to Terminal 15 (The power path that passes through ign.)
Fix the Relay Box using the double-sided paste and screws provided in the package
bought from
'W/P'(0) is constant 12v.
Which other wire should touch 'W/P' to crank the starter?
I have tried 'B/W'(2)
FYI: when i hit the start button, the blue wires completes the circuit.
Please advise
Last edited by heart_crafter; 06-10-2013 at 10:13 AM.
06-11-2013, 06:00 AM
#15
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 6
Ah two relays makes perfect sense since this car got alarm system, and last owner installed something that overrides my clutch switch to start the car.
Connecting B/W and B/Y did not do anything.
I am not really sure what to do So I just fixed the switch temporary and closed it all last night.
To fix the switch. I cut a piece of back side of a Tylenol like wrapper that had some foil and paper and inserted it in the center hole of the switch by the longest wall. Oh also i put some RTV sealant in there before putting the wrapper.
Works good for now till I get a new switch or use the alarm relay some how.
oh FYI my alarm system does not work, when i bought the car remote did not had a back cover. plus i'm not sure if this was a built in alarm system or after market. had problem starting so i removed the alarm relay from the starter that was used to kill start.
Next problem. water under pedals. what keywords should i use to search that ? any suggestions will be appreciated.
I have seen cracked body on the passenger side where water can seep inside. but didn't see anything around driver side. This was done by taking of the cover that is under/front of the windshield. Also im missing the rubber/sealant from there.
Thanks
Connecting B/W and B/Y did not do anything.
I am not really sure what to do
So I just fixed the switch temporary and closed it all last night. To fix the switch. I cut a piece of back side of a Tylenol like wrapper that had some foil and paper and inserted it in the center hole of the switch by the longest wall. Oh also i put some RTV sealant in there before putting the wrapper.
Works good for now till I get a new switch or use the alarm relay some how.
oh FYI my alarm system does not work, when i bought the car remote did not had a back cover. plus i'm not sure if this was a built in alarm system or after market. had problem starting so i removed the alarm relay from the starter that was used to kill start.
Next problem. water under pedals. what keywords should i use to search that ?
any suggestions will be appreciated.I have seen cracked body on the passenger side where water can seep inside. but didn't see anything around driver side. This was done by taking of the cover that is under/front of the windshield. Also im missing the rubber/sealant from there.
Thanks
06-11-2013, 06:32 AM
#16
I am not really sure what to do So I just fixed the switch temporary and closed it all last night.
To fix the switch. I cut a piece of back side of a Tylenol like wrapper that had some foil and paper and inserted it in the center hole of the switch by the longest wall. Oh also i put some RTV sealant in there before putting the wrapper.
So I just fixed the switch temporary and closed it all last night.To fix the switch. I cut a piece of back side of a Tylenol like wrapper that had some foil and paper and inserted it in the center hole of the switch by the longest wall. Oh also i put some RTV sealant in there before putting the wrapper.
06-11-2013, 08:19 AM
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