Alrighty guys, I'm stuck, I've been fighting for the past couple of hours with no end in sight.

How do I remove the rear header? I have it very loose, but I have no room to move it around to take it off, I do not have a cherry picker, but a couple of jacks, I'm almost at the point now where I'm ready to just drop the motor to get it over with, are there any tricks you guys have used???

Also I can't fanagle the heatshield out either, I would love to have that thing off....

 

from what ive learned....the only way is to drop the motor enough to shimmy it out....thats the only reason i havent done my rear one yet lol good luck!

 

what's so hard about it? Are the heatshield bolts eating your lunch? I can give you a hand tomorrow had to work on a 300C Hemi tonite (stuck in park syndrone)

 

What have you removed to get to it? I remove the crossmember and the rear motor mount bracket and it comes out pretty easy for me.

 

This is how most do it, although a few also have removed the UIM to gain better access to the heatsheild bolts and to remove the actual heatsheild itself.

 

Yup. I personally dont see how you can reach back there at all with the IM still in place. Unless you have tiny hands.

As far as the heat sheild goes, I cut, bent mangled, tore, and basically destroyed it to get it out of there.

 

Removed: Intake, TB, IACV, UIM, EGR, Random shield in the back that bolts to the fram/axle and radiator fans.

I have chewed up the heatshield, but I still can't get it out (I've turned it into a hand slicer instead of a heat shield now), my next move is to take the other EGR pipe for the back off of the header, I can get the header almost off of most of the studs, but still I run into issues with me backing it off all of them.

The next problem I have is dropping that sucker down, but I think if I can back if off and slide it towards the timing side some more I can turn it sideways and it'll slide through.

My questions are....

Do I need to take off the passenger side axle?

Drop the Crossmember? (and how the CLUCK do I get to the rear mount with the shift linkage in the way? I cant put anything up there to acess the bolt, which are both facing flywheel side).

What about that darn bracket for the rear mount?

What about the rear mout itself?

And for future refence, the 99 EGR sucks, I hate that...

Current Oh *ish Cost: Another can of PB Blaster, Rubber hoses, broken a few so far....

Thank jebus I don't have work today or I'd be screwwwweedd

 

Update, got the rear mani off, the official to remove list goes...

Intake, UIM, TB, IACV, EGR, Rear Mount, Rear Mount Bracket.

Then it just falls right off.

I'll have a fully detailed write-up/review on my blog some day.

And these OBX's fit right on, no grinding needed, the only problem is the O2 Sensor location runs it right into the steering thingy (name slips me), so I will need that thing relocated, but we'll see if it throws a code...

Current OH *ISH List: PB Blaster, Rubber Hoses, Plugs for the extra 02 Sensor ports.

But thanks for the help!!

 

i didnt have to remove the mounts or brackets sounds like you had a hell of a time.i had to bend and wiggle and invent new insults to get my heat shield off too. those things suck! well its good that its all behind you now. enjoy your new power.

 

Annnnnd the nightmare never ends, I need to look up EGR deletes for 99s...

I put a plate between the EGR pipe -> IM and thought that would be it, but I'm assuming I need to do something about the hole from the headers.

She'll fire up, but will NOT idle.

Any ideas?

 

put a bolt in it

 

Yeahhh

 

is that backfiring through the intake? and a puff of smoke from the intake manifold area lol.
its a vacuum leak.....

 

It's intake manifold leak. More than likely, it's coming from where you had to block of the EGR on the intake manifold. I've seen this happen tons of time.

 

When you block the EGR dont you have to block the vacuum line under the TB as well?

 

+1, I just have it plugged into the solenoid.

 

i havent had time to block my vac line under the tb...i just had to turn up the idle

 

Had a dek swap that the guy didn't have the egr bolted onto the manifold and the car ran like that. Tightened the two egr bolts and the problem went away.

Also any large holes in the headers can cause weird problems as well. If any extra o2 sensors are not bolted up it can cause problems.

One reason I stayed away from the obx headers.

 

Same thing today, i have a plate on each hole for the curvy EGR pipe, and a plate on the big bolt from the header.

I made a tad mistake w/ my EGR pipe tho, i'm gonna go to the JY and get another one and retry the delete, just by blocking the big bolt, and i will go over the vacuum lines in the morning, hopefully she'll idle then.

 

Call me ill go help

 

wow wow wow kill it you got a fuel leak oh boy ...

 

Hah no, it wasn't fuel, like I said in the description, we f'd up on seating the IM down, should have it taken care of pretty soon, found the vacuum leak using WD40.

 

+1 a big one too.....

 

FYI... heard this yesterday on the S14 EGR.. pull the fittings off the EGR tube and drop a nickel down in there. put the fittings back on. voila. blocked EGR.

But umm yeah, that's a pretty obvious vacuum leak. I hate IM leaks. tons of work for tiny problems. be glad you're not working on an altima with a KA. it's a 20 hr job to R&R the I/M. Step 1 is to remove the engine from the car. Nissan wanted $900 for the labor and $3 for the parts. I did it in a weekend without pulling the engine, but proably could have done it faster by pulling the engine.

 

It was a combination of me not properly seating the UIM down, which then caused me to strip the LIM holes, then not sealing up the EGR properly.

All and all... this n00b learned his lesson.

 

damn i didnt know it was this hard todo i gotta replace my whole exhuast from headers back

 

It's really not, in hindsight, I could have had it done it one night, now that I know what I'm doing.

 

yo Aack man,

U get it running yet? Results?