RB26 or no care...


Go with the DE-K!

 

yes, u can block off the whole assembly. http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...off-plate.html

 

K I will look into it...I will post a pic of the intake so I can actually show u what nipples im talking about that aren't being used

K I will look into it...I will post a pic of the intake so I can actually show u what nipples im talking about that aren't being used

 

Have fun you're going to love it.

 

Ok so next question. With the a33 fuel rail and injectors with an a32 ecu. I will run rich without a safc2 so can I run my stock injectors in the a33 fuel rail or what...until I get a safc2 thanks!

 

No you can not they dont fit.

 

Ok so I just have to run rich until I get an safc2. ?? Do I need to get a gauge to read the a/f or will the safc2 tell me what its running like 13.2 or w.e it is ....

Could I run the whole a32 fuel rail just curious..?

 

Anyone.?

 

You'll need to get a wideband to see what your a/f ratio is. The Safc only modifies it. Also I would suggest a Vafc-II. I ran my car for a couple of years untuned with my VI swap.

No you can not use the a32 fuel rail on a DEK lower intake manifold.

 

if you want to use the DE fuel rail youre looking at using the DE lower manifold rotated backwards and drilled and tapped.....all kinds of crap. stick with the full setup.

 

+1

 

You will only run rich in open loop mode. AKA full throttle. You will still feel a significant bump in power though over the USIM DE.

And also, like its been said, if your gonna be running the dek lower IM, your gonna need the dek fuel rail, and injectors. This is the best way though, as its virtually bolt on. Hence why I'm selling the complete package in my sig.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post7882329

 

Well im doing a complete dek swap. It has everything....except one thing that im not sure what it is. Its the plastic connector that's sits on the upper left ish side of the I/m and 1or 2hoses connect to it. I think its supposed to be blue. Maybe the map sensor or something...and if it is, can I use the one from the de? Cuz I don't have the dek connector.

Sorry about the random replies, as im working on or preping. The dek and the forums are not working on my computer....but they work on my phone..so im using my phone to get on here lol

 

Bump because im stuck with not knowing which connector I need or even if I need it

 

Is this what you're reffering to? If so you dont need it.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/14920-v...-p-193706.html

 

Yea that's it thanks...so that eliminates one of theunknkwn tubes...now there is 2 more...one sticks straight out from the passenger side of the manifold..has about a 8inch tube coming of of it...and the other is a nipple that sticks straight up. Its metal and its the farthest left of the three nipples that sticks straight up on the back of the manifold. The other two are taken and go to the throttle body. The third has no hose on it. Where should it lead to and can I block it off?

 

Try to get some pics of the specific vacum nipples your talking about. But as far as routing the vacum hoses, its not as hard as once thought to be. Just remember that the large fitting farthest to the back passenger side is for the brake booster. The fuel dampeners/regulators have to have vacum. Most other vacum sources can simply be blocked off. If you see something that needs vacum to operate, grab a little hose and run it from one of the nipples on the IM. Vacum is vacum for the most part, so dont get caught up on putting something on the "wrong vacum source".

 

Ok both dampeners have vacume and I see the brake booster...both nipples I need answers for have hoses that come directly off of the throttle body. One from the top and one from the side. ....are they necessary. ?

 

Are they off the throttle body specifically? Or are the off the flange on the intake manifold that the throttle body bolts to?

If it's off the throttle body itself, I think you might be refering to the coolant passages. Regardless, if i'm not mistaken, these can be blocked off too.

 

When I said throttle body, I meant the I/m directly behind the throttle body. Basically touching it. Ok so the nipple I was talking about that went straight up actually went to where the sensor would have been so that's ok. Im looking at it now. Where are the two hoses off the I/m directly bend the throtle body go? The one ontop makes its way all the way across the manifold to the passenger side basically above the side motor mount. The other goes next to the hose that would have gone to that sensor im not using...would it have gone to that sensor to? Cuz that sensor thing had nipples

 

I wish I could post pics but my ciomputer isn't working with the forums. Like I said its the flange not the t/b itself sorry

 

i have another question, as ive been searching what has to be done to complete the dek swap, i see stuff about swapping sensors from the coolant log, do i need to swap over the sensors that are on the de coolant log like the green, brown, and black one to the dek log? they run on vaccume so im not sure if i need to somehow swap them over to the dek coolant log, if i do, can someone tell me which ones i need to reuse thanks. if not, can the connectors on the de harness just hang or will they throw codes out the a** lol

 

Bump cuz I wanna drop this in tonight but want to swap everthing over while its out. And make it easier lol

 

I dont know if you have this already, BUT please get the FSM from link below (they have a lot of nissans) if you dont have it. Use the IDX section to reference the terms etc. Not saying your not mechanically inclined, but to make it easier to help you by not having to describe things as the "green/ orange plug".

NICO CLUB FSM section

Okay so now to answer the question. Yes you do have to swap those over. You might not be able to directly bolt it onto the DEK coolant log (screw holes not in the same space) but never the less keep them so you dont get a MIL.

Remember to preserve the vaccum line locations. If you mess them up, it will throw a MIL.

I got rid of the vaccum gallery all together and just T-ed off from the DEK-s vaccume port. Then left the sensors hanging to the side. You cant really see them under everything. Kind of gheto, but it works until i can make a bracket to house them.

the rest is just the wires for IACV have to be changed over to the DEK one if your using the dek TB etc.
I've seen people bolt the pathfinder throttle body right onto the DE-K manifold + right stuff gasket maker. The plastic is easy to drill into.

I think thats about it... Its pretty straight forward....

Pic for ref:

 

Holy crap that's alot of t-ing lol. Well ill pull them. Off and see what I can work up. The box on the side of the intake that controles. The butterfly valves, can I use that as a source of vacume? And on the end of that box u have a hose going down into the engine bay, where is that going? Thanks!

 

VAFC2 not only lets you control your open loop AFR but also gives you control over your 00VI butterflies because it has an RPM switch built in, meant for switching over a Honda's VTEC cam position.

I haven't been able to make my car run any leaner at idle with the VAFC2, it runs pretty rich but under throttle its not terrible. The wideband I am using now is a UEGO, it works pretty well and was reasonably affordable.

 

so im gonna try and run my vaccume lines to the sensors from the de and whatnot and am kinda confused on some things so can someone or anyone post pics of there dek swap engine bay or even just some close ups on there dek engine bay. im looking for pics of where some sensors are located and where some tubes run to etc. any pics are helpful thanks!

 

its gonna be a lot of t-ing unless you reuse what they call the spider. which is the hard tubing where all the vacuum lines connect to that bolts to the coolant log. you can try using the whole vacuum line assembly, spider and all, but youll have to create a bracket or something cuz the dek coolant log doesnt really have a good place for it. as for the "box on the side of the intake", u can use the hard plastic nipple for vacuum yes. the metal ones above the connectors stay open to fresh air.

 

btw, you know theres a vacuum diagram on the underside of the hood right? just follow that exactly as its shown. obviously the shape of the intake is different in the pic, and the lines are routed differently, but it all ends up the same.

 

ok i if i use the spider, which i just may, actually i just went and looked at it and i need to study it, because it looks like they all run simultaniously...kinda haha. the only hose im wondering about runs to the fuel dampener on the de, can i just t off the vaccum hose on the dek and run it to that hose. man....this seems sooo confusing. but it will work out. it has to haha

 

oh haha its in the basement, i will go look at it lol

 

the DE doesnt have a fuel dampener...explain please. if youre talking about the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator, it t' s off of a vacuum source yes.

 

ok quick question, a few of the hoses go to egr, if i were to delete the egr, would i just plug those hoses or just leave them open, and if i delete the egr, what will that do for my car? make it less fuel efficient? etc..? thanks

and i thought the thing on the fuel rail was the dampener, i was looking at something different sorry lol

 

well, as you know now the dek has a fuel dampener on one end whereas the DE just has a barbed end.

if you delete the egr, eh, something with emissions, itll raise combustion temps a little or something (maybe im backwards), its not gonna cause any driveability issues whatsoever. remember, some deks dont even have EGR from the factory. Just leave your sensors plugged in to prevent any codes. on the hoses, theyll just stay open.

 

ok cool thanks, the dek doesnt have the egr so im just going to ...not use it lol. meaning leave the hoses open, and when you say keep the sensors plugged in, like, you mean the sensors that have vaccum on the spider? there are three that im dealing with *from the de* that im swapping over, well 4 if you count the map sensor. but that one just sits by itself with one vacuume hose to it so its easy. the other 3 i wil try and mount somewhere with vacume to them

so ur saying any hose that would run to egr i can just leave open?

 

sorry if im making this harder than it really is. i just wanna do it right now so when it hopefully starts right up it wont idle like crap or what not and im back to square one.

 

well, of course leave those sensors plugged in, but theres also another one near the iacv that belongs to EGR. unscrew it from the pipe that its in, and keep it plugged in. leave all the hoses open.

 

will do thanks you very much!

 

the "spider" is reffered to as vaccum gallery.

GET the vafc2 if you want to feel the effect of the swap.

the vaccum gallery isnt that hard, Go to the NICO club site , get the FSM. Go to the IDX section of the FSM. reference the vaccum gallery and bam. The hardlined vaccum gallery looks more complicated than it is cause of proximity between lines.

The EGR. remove it if you want, BUT keep the EGR temp sensor plugged in. when i did the DEK swap on my 96, i kept the EGR temp sens. plugged in (you dont have to have it in the exuast manifold, just plugged into the harness) and I never got a MIL.

 

Ccould someone post a pic of he egr. Temp sensor plz I looked but it didn't pop out at at me so seeing it would make it alot easier and I looked at he nicco club thing. And didn't find it but it was late and I was rushing so I will look again tonight thanks.