Weird Knock Sensor Problem
Weird Knock Sensor Problem
I just replaced my knock sensor 2 weeks ago. Car ran fine for a while, until today, trouble code came up again because car had the studder like before. Trouble code is knock sensor again.
I measured the resistance between the two terminals on the knock sensor sub connector, it was infinite.
I took the knock sensor out and noticed there is only one wire that goes to the knock sensor itself. Why is there two pins on the knock sensor itself?
The knock sensor connector only connects to the pin on the left in the above pic.
Why did my knock sensor fail in 2 weeks?
Stan
I measured the resistance between the two terminals on the knock sensor sub connector, it was infinite.
I took the knock sensor out and noticed there is only one wire that goes to the knock sensor itself. Why is there two pins on the knock sensor itself?
The knock sensor connector only connects to the pin on the left in the above pic.
Why did my knock sensor fail in 2 weeks?
Stan
I usually check it at the sub connector and ground. Make sure you are checking it right. If you are putting anything less than 91 octane it will knock and prematurely kill the sensor especially in your climate.
eBay is the best place to buy OEM knock sensors for super cheap.
But this is why I did the 470K ohm resistor mod. Even if you replace your knock sensor it'll just fail again and you'll have to order another. Kind of pointless if you ask me.
But this is why I did the 470K ohm resistor mod. Even if you replace your knock sensor it'll just fail again and you'll have to order another. Kind of pointless if you ask me.
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,005
From: Worcester, MA
OP,
U clean MAF and TB, put some chevron techron in the tank. U good on yur tune up? A bad KS doesnt cause studder. Bad O2 gonna cause low MPG
YEs, KS has 2 pins but only one wire.
I run 89 no problems.
Last edited by cashoit; Jan 14, 2011 at 08:52 AM.
I took out the knock sensor and measured the resistance between the terminal and ground = I get open circuit. I was supposed to read ~500k ohms. So I know the knock sensor is bad.
I've posted this months ago in a different thread but I'll post it here too:
I bought an "OEM" knock sensor from this guy earlier in the year. I installed the knock sensor along with a fresh engine/complete overhaul of the car and I could not for the life of me figure out why my car was barely driveable. It ran like absolute CRAP when it warmed up. I was digging into my fuel system, swapped fuel pumps several times, swapped out an endless array of ignition coils, messed around with my timing endlessly, and was nearly on the verge of pulling the engine back out and digging into it because I was resigned to thinking that the timing chain(s) was/were off a tooth or two.
It turns out it was this guy's POS knock sensor. I bypassed the knock sensor with a resistor and it instantly cured my problem.
Now, for whatever reason, it appears a ton of 4th and 5th gen guys here have used eBay/fake knock sensors with no issues at all. But deutschepartsusa's "OEM" knock sensor sure wreaked havoc on my VE and made me nearly pull my hair out over weeks of trying to diagnose it
It turns out it was this guy's POS knock sensor. I bypassed the knock sensor with a resistor and it instantly cured my problem.
Now, for whatever reason, it appears a ton of 4th and 5th gen guys here have used eBay/fake knock sensors with no issues at all. But deutschepartsusa's "OEM" knock sensor sure wreaked havoc on my VE and made me nearly pull my hair out over weeks of trying to diagnose it
Last edited by James92SE; Jan 14, 2011 at 09:23 AM.
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Just bought and installed a $20 eBay KS. If the OEM part lasts three to six times longer than the eBay one - and clearly it doesn't have a reputation for longevity - then it would be worth buying. Seeing as how it's a ten minute job to change out the sensor and you'll probably have to do it again in a few years anyway, you might as well go for the cheapies.
Just bought and installed a $20 eBay KS. If the OEM part lasts three to six times longer than the eBay one - and clearly it doesn't have a reputation for longevity - then it would be worth buying. Seeing as how it's a ten minute job to change out the sensor and you'll probably have to do it again in a few years anyway, you might as well go for the cheapies.
I originally paid $53 shipped for an "OEM" KS from ebay (seller was aircabinman) and I'm surprised he emailed me back when I complained about the KS failing after 2 weeks of use. He said he would replace it.
I do know the bad KS causes the studder in my car. I have an OBDII scanner and it threw that code when the Infiniti OEM one failed in October. I replaced the KS and cleared the code and the car drove great for 2 weeks. I then had to stick a 470kohm resistor in the sub harness connector to fool the ECU since I took the KS out to measure it, etc. The car now drives great again, but I do want to have the KS in place (as it is intended to detect knock and retard timing at the same time).
For those of you who purchased a KS off of ebay, can you please post your mileage on the ones that did fail (how much miles before fail) and if it didn't fail, post how much mileage up to date?
My original KS lasted ~123k miles. "OEM" ebay one lasted about 450 miles in 2 weeks.
I do know the bad KS causes the studder in my car. I have an OBDII scanner and it threw that code when the Infiniti OEM one failed in October. I replaced the KS and cleared the code and the car drove great for 2 weeks. I then had to stick a 470kohm resistor in the sub harness connector to fool the ECU since I took the KS out to measure it, etc. The car now drives great again, but I do want to have the KS in place (as it is intended to detect knock and retard timing at the same time).
For those of you who purchased a KS off of ebay, can you please post your mileage on the ones that did fail (how much miles before fail) and if it didn't fail, post how much mileage up to date?
My original KS lasted ~123k miles. "OEM" ebay one lasted about 450 miles in 2 weeks.
I also have a '95 Nissan Hardbody with the VG30E. That engine uses the same KS as the A32. My '95 pickup has 145,000+miles on it on the original KS.
On the other Nissan forums I go on (offroad), I don't recall reading of people having problems with the knock sensor.
On the other Nissan forums I go on (offroad), I don't recall reading of people having problems with the knock sensor.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 61
Is this really the way to test a knock sensor to see if it's bad? I want to know to diagnose my car.
I just purchased another ebay knock sensor and boy is it a FAKE! I didn't install it because the knock sensor reads open circuit (infinite). the look of the knock sensor also threw me off, that's why I measured it with my DMM.
All those "OEM" eBay knock sensors are fake though. Good fakes, but they're still fakes. I put one of the "OEM" knock sensors into my blue VE when I completely overhauled it about a year ago and was about to completely tear the car back down because it ran like absolute crap. I actually compared the eBay knock sensor and packaging to a genuine knock sensor and packaging I had and there were slight, but noticeable differences that should have alerted me but I ignored them and put it in anyway. Still don't know how you 4th and 5th gen guys seem to all have no problems with these fake ones.
I've posted this months ago in a different thread but I'll post it here too:
*edit* Forgot to add that I bought the "OEM" knock sensor from deutschepartsusa on eBay which seems to be highly acclaimed among 4th genners
I've posted this months ago in a different thread but I'll post it here too:
*edit* Forgot to add that I bought the "OEM" knock sensor from deutschepartsusa on eBay which seems to be highly acclaimed among 4th genners
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