Belt squeal FTW
01-16-2011, 08:46 AM
#1
Belt squeal FTW Pics added
Well i noticed some light squeal at idle that increased with the rpms. I at first thought i had got a little oil on the belt during my oil change. I degreased the pulleys and belt with no change.
I pulled the splash guard and the front belt was loose along with the tensioner pulley and i mean damn near finger tight. So i tightened the belt back up and the tensioner down and still has a squeal. Pulled the belt back off and spun the alt and ac comp pulley, no issues. Spun the tensioner pulley and it has a light gritty noise .
Should i go ahead and change the pulley? My manual does not have a exploded view of tension system, any one have it? Any other thoughts?
Found the diagram for the tensioner
I pulled the splash guard and the front belt was loose along with the tensioner pulley and i mean damn near finger tight. So i tightened the belt back up and the tensioner down and still has a squeal. Pulled the belt back off and spun the alt and ac comp pulley, no issues. Spun the tensioner pulley and it has a light gritty noise .
Should i go ahead and change the pulley? My manual does not have a exploded view of tension system, any one have it? Any other thoughts?
Found the diagram for the tensioner
Last edited by Loud97gle; 01-18-2011 at 12:50 PM.
01-16-2011, 11:35 AM
#2
If you rotate a bearing and it does not feel 100% smooth, it is going bad. As far as what kind of noise it will make, I can't say. Some will squeal, some will make a low grumbling noise. I suppose it depends on the load and the speed.
But when I was replacing my altenator, I had the same thing with my idler pulley as you and I got a replacement pulley at autozone for around $10, IIRC.
added:
I looked up the pulley and I under estimated the price. It is autozone part number 231134 and costs $23.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...artNumber=true
But when I was replacing my altenator, I had the same thing with my idler pulley as you and I got a replacement pulley at autozone for around $10, IIRC.
added:
I looked up the pulley and I under estimated the price. It is autozone part number 231134 and costs $23.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...artNumber=true
Last edited by DennisMik; 01-16-2011 at 11:45 AM. Reason: added part #
01-16-2011, 12:15 PM
#3
If you rotate a bearing and it does not feel 100% smooth, it is going bad. As far as what kind of noise it will make, I can't say. Some will squeal, some will make a low grumbling noise. I suppose it depends on the load and the speed.
But when I was replacing my altenator, I had the same thing with my idler pulley as you and I got a replacement pulley at autozone for around $10, IIRC.
added:
I looked up the pulley and I under estimated the price. It is autozone part number 231134 and costs $23.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...artNumber=true
But when I was replacing my altenator, I had the same thing with my idler pulley as you and I got a replacement pulley at autozone for around $10, IIRC.
added:
I looked up the pulley and I under estimated the price. It is autozone part number 231134 and costs $23.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...artNumber=true
http://cgi.ebay.com/6301-2RS-RS-Ball...item53dce9dd7c
01-16-2011, 12:27 PM
#4
Or replace the bearing for $3-$8.
http://cgi.ebay.com/6301-2RS-RS-Ball...item53dce9dd7c
http://cgi.ebay.com/6301-2RS-RS-Ball...item53dce9dd7c
Last edited by DennisMik; 01-16-2011 at 12:34 PM. Reason: can't spell
01-16-2011, 08:56 PM
#7
I repalced the idler pulley on my last max with a new one.....even online I paid nearly $40 shipped to my door for a factory part since I could not find an aftermarket from Dayco, Goodyear or Gates...zilch.... So, for my current max that is getting up in miles I took the old one to a local Alternator/starter rebuilder, he pressed a new bearing in for $19 out the door.
If this sounds like something you would rather do than buy a new pulley the bearing number is a 6301 - 2rs (6 is the type=ball bearing; the 301 is the size; 2rs is a doulbe sealed descriptor)...Its an off the shelf part at most bearing supply companies...but the press fit on it was tight...I tried to press out the old bearing myself in a vise but no dice....hence I brought it to the place I mentioned....he turned it around in a day.
Good luck,
John
If this sounds like something you would rather do than buy a new pulley the bearing number is a 6301 - 2rs (6 is the type=ball bearing; the 301 is the size; 2rs is a doulbe sealed descriptor)...Its an off the shelf part at most bearing supply companies...but the press fit on it was tight...I tried to press out the old bearing myself in a vise but no dice....hence I brought it to the place I mentioned....he turned it around in a day.
Good luck,
John
Last edited by asand1; 01-16-2011 at 09:06 PM.
01-17-2011, 05:46 AM
#9
01-17-2011, 02:57 PM
#10
Some of the guys have had problems with their harmonic dampeners on the crankshaft where the pulley that drives the belts is pressed onto a rubber ring and the pulley is coming off. This would misalign the belt and make it run on an angle and maybe this is your problem.
01-17-2011, 05:23 PM
#11
Some of the guys have had problems with their harmonic dampeners on the crankshaft where the pulley that drives the belts is pressed onto a rubber ring and the pulley is coming off. This would misalign the belt and make it run on an angle and maybe this is your problem.
01-18-2011, 10:04 AM
#12
Ok i pulled off the tension pulley to make sure it was in the correct order and it was
Both belts are tight within the limits
Still has a light squeal that increases with the rpms
Both belts are tight within the limits
Still has a light squeal that increases with the rpms
01-18-2011, 12:28 PM
#13
Take a picture of your crank pulley and post it. Like DennisMik said it may be going bad. I recently made a thread about them going bad lately.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ley-check.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ley-check.html
Last edited by ajcool2; 01-18-2011 at 12:34 PM.
01-18-2011, 12:39 PM
#15
Take a picture of your crank pulley and post it. Like DennisMik said it may be going bad. I recently made a thread about them going bad lately.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ley-check.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ley-check.html
01-18-2011, 12:49 PM
#17
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56600902@N06/5367571067/http://www.flickr.com/photos/56600902@N06/5367571067/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/56600902@N06/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56600902@N06/5367570533/http://www.flickr.com/photos/56600902@N06/5367570533/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/56600902@N06/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56600902@N06/5367570533/http://www.flickr.com/photos/56600902@N06/5367570533/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/56600902@N06/, on Flickr
01-18-2011, 01:27 PM
#19
If the pulley is wobbling then thats most likely why your belt is squealing. Before my girls pulley broke it squealed like hell no matter how I tightend it. Then one day we heard a tapping noise against the motor and when I checked it the large part of the pulley was moving in and out hitting the timing cover. Eventually the belts broke and I was stuck in a parking lot at 1 am changing a crank pulley in 20 degree weather FTL.
01-18-2011, 01:29 PM
#20
If the pulley is wobbling then thats most likely why your belt is squealing. Before my girls pulley broke it squealed like hell no matter how I tightend it. Then one day we heard a tapping noise against the motor and when I checked it the large part of the pulley was moving in and out hitting the timing cover. Eventually the belts broke and I was stuck in a parking lot at 1 am changing a crank pulley in 20 degree weather FTL.
Any recommendation on where to get a good deal on one?
01-18-2011, 03:28 PM
#24
To better diagnose just grab some lubricant spray, start the car and keep it running until you hear the noise. Then simply spray each pulley starting with the crank or Tension pulley until the noise goes away. Then bam you have found the root source.
For me I can tell you exactly what your problem is if I can hear it whether it be metal on metal or soft belt type squeal.
01-18-2011, 03:41 PM
#25
Secondly that front seal is leaking it's done replace it along with the Crank pulley. The Crank is wobbling because the hard rubber part on the pulley has deteriorated and is cracked due to the oil splashing all over it making it soft and brittle.
01-18-2011, 03:49 PM
#26
To better diagnose just grab some lubricant spray, start the car and keep it running until you hear the noise. Then simply spray each pulley starting with the crank or Tension pulley until the noise goes away. Then bam you have found the root source.
For me I can tell you exactly what your problem is if I can hear it whether it be metal on metal or soft belt type squeal.
For me I can tell you exactly what your problem is if I can hear it whether it be metal on metal or soft belt type squeal.
01-18-2011, 04:51 PM
#27
If you sprayed the AC comp and the noise temporarily went away then that's for sure the problem. Unfortunately there isn't much you can do other than replacing the AC comp, taking it apart or dowsing the pulley area with long lasting Silicon based lubricant.
If it's the original compressor with the 170kmiles that you have then I would replace the compressor, chances are it's going to fail sooner or later. Or if I'm strapped for cash I would quickly take it apart, meaning the Pulley/Clutch assembly then clean and lube/grease it up in the areas that's needed.
If it's the original compressor with the 170kmiles that you have then I would replace the compressor, chances are it's going to fail sooner or later. Or if I'm strapped for cash I would quickly take it apart, meaning the Pulley/Clutch assembly then clean and lube/grease it up in the areas that's needed.
01-18-2011, 05:51 PM
#28
If you sprayed the AC comp and the noise temporarily went away then that's for sure the problem. Unfortunately there isn't much you can do other than replacing the AC comp, taking it apart or dowsing the pulley area with long lasting Silicon based lubricant.
If it's the original compressor with the 170kmiles that you have then I would replace the compressor, chances are it's going to fail sooner or later. Or if I'm strapped for cash I would quickly take it apart, meaning the Pulley/Clutch assembly then clean and lube/grease it up in the areas that's needed.
If it's the original compressor with the 170kmiles that you have then I would replace the compressor, chances are it's going to fail sooner or later. Or if I'm strapped for cash I would quickly take it apart, meaning the Pulley/Clutch assembly then clean and lube/grease it up in the areas that's needed.
The motor needs work badly. Front a rear seal, oil pan gasket,valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets. I might as well look for a motor
01-19-2011, 06:58 AM
#29
The gf is out with the car now. She just called and said the car stops the squealing after driving a few miles. She had it parked for a hour or so and it started again then stopped.
Is it possible the belt is too tight then after it gets hot it expands and loosens up a bit?
The belt has to be pretty tight for the almost 300 amp alt i run. Under 400+ amp loads it will slip if not tight as hell.
DC Power 275 XP 180 plus amps at idle 275+ amps at 2000 rpms.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56600902@N06/5370239450/http://www.flickr.com/photos/56600902@N06/5370239450/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/56600902@N06/, on Flickr
Is it possible the belt is too tight then after it gets hot it expands and loosens up a bit?
The belt has to be pretty tight for the almost 300 amp alt i run. Under 400+ amp loads it will slip if not tight as hell.
DC Power 275 XP 180 plus amps at idle 275+ amps at 2000 rpms.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56600902@N06/5370239450/http://www.flickr.com/photos/56600902@N06/5370239450/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/56600902@N06/, on Flickr
01-19-2011, 09:35 AM
#30
I doubt it has anything to do with the Alt.
You already have the issues posted above that needs attention first, if not addressed your always going to be guessing. But it sounds like you rather not bother so just deal with it untill you get another motor or whatever. VQ35 swap should be a perfect replacement.
You already have the issues posted above that needs attention first, if not addressed your always going to be guessing. But it sounds like you rather not bother so just deal with it untill you get another motor or whatever. VQ35 swap should be a perfect replacement.
01-19-2011, 10:10 AM
#31
I doubt it has anything to do with the Alt.
You already have the issues posted above that needs attention first, if not addressed your always going to be guessing. But it sounds like you rather not bother so just deal with it untill you get another motor or whatever. VQ35 swap should be a perfect replacement.
You already have the issues posted above that needs attention first, if not addressed your always going to be guessing. But it sounds like you rather not bother so just deal with it untill you get another motor or whatever. VQ35 swap should be a perfect replacement.
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