icuminpeace07

I think its the alternator. Here is my case:

For Alternator:

• Funky smell in cabin this morning and a lil bit of a whine
• Car has been a "little" slow to start for about two days now
• Worked FINE on my first few errands today and then I went into my building and came out ~5 min later to a VERY slow start like the battery was dying
• Parked in garage and tried to restart.....nope!
• Jumped it and let it sit for about 10 min
• While it was sitting i put my head in the engine bay (around the alternator) and it had a funky smell to it and a barely noticeable whine
• Unhooked and tried to drive and stalled while backing up

Sidenotes:

• Battery is newish according to the guy that sold me the car and it looks new (he said to take it back if it turns out to be the problem)
• Did the windshield wiper test and the car FAILED
• No corrosion on battery terminals
• Lights dim when I try to start and might be going all the way out too....
• When i get a chance i will take them (battery and alternator) to get tested.

I am just REALLY over not having reliable transportaion!!

PLEASE HELP!!
PLEASE HELP!!

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

It definitely sounds like something is up with your charging system. Test that alternator first, I would only test the battery if the alternator passes.

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

sounds like the alt. I put $20 on it

ef9

iTrader: (8)

Unhooked what? Don't tell me you unhooked the battery while the engine was running. That will definately ruin your alternator.

The A32 is one of the most unreliable cars that I have seen/owned. When you look on the 4th gen forum, nothing but people have problems.

ricerocket336

iTrader: (14)

start the car and disconnect the neg on the batt , if the cars stalls its the alt.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

OUCH! Friend fried his diode (on the full wave bridge rectifier) doing that. I would not recommend it. Just get it load tested while the battery is in the car. Most auto parts stores have a load tester that can test both battery and alternator. I have one of those myself, aren't that expensive.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

http://www.ehow.com/how_7264193_disc...r-running.html

Hence, the full wave rectifier bridge circuit in the alternator that converts the AC to DC.

Article is not 100% correct tho, it says the "battery blocks this signal." Actually, the battery "smooths" out this signal. That would make the article 100% correct.

beegeezy

iTrader: (3)

Doesn't the "battery" light stay on when the alternator fails? I would just break out my fluke 88 dmm to test, but even a cheapo will do.

icuminpeace07

yea and i meant to add that i did not get a battery light at all.....

ken85

iTrader: (1)

why not jump it off get a voltmeter check what the alternator is putting out? The battery should be somewhere above 14 volts w/ the car on.. It goes up depending on throttle usage.

icuminpeace07

I changed the alternator yesterday.....working fine now except my L-Headlight blew both filaments in a matter of 40 minutes.............weird and i feel like its related somehow.....??

beegeezy

iTrader: (3)

Hmmm...voltage spike maybe? Things break in multiples on older cars...