i changed the altenator and the battery (optima yellow top).. and im still gettin 11.5 to 12 v the most at idle and while driving the charge drops ...
i have no clue what this could be next

 

how are your battery cables and connections? esp the ground to the block?

was the alternator new?

 

Under the hood by the battery is a fuse box. Check fuse # 60 (7.5 amp) and fusable link A (120 or 140 amp). Both of these feed the altenator.

 

the 7.5 fuse is good... but wheres that fusable link A?

 

Check the voltage at the alternator, on the output power wire going to the battery. If it's still 12volts, you have a bad alternator. (rebuilds are junk btw)

 

that makes since

 

Do the big 3 upgrade. http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...other-how.html

 

My bad. It's not in the box by the battery, it's in the positive battery cable where it clamps onto the terminal.

But you don't need to check it because I can guarantee that it is good. If Fusable Link A were bad, not only would the altenator not work, absolutely NOTHING would work. It would be like someone stole your battery. My brain was evidentially out to lunch.

Since you have checked the 7.5 amp fuse, that kind of points at the altenator being bad. If you want to make one last check before you take the altenator back, pull off the 4 pin connector from the altenator and measure for 12 volts on the yellow/black stripe wire (pin # 3). This is from the 7.5 amp fuse and 12 volts there says the wire harness is OK. The ignition switch does not have to be on.

 

Sorry, but I have to disagree with you, but that is not a valid test. That wire goes directly to the battery (through Fusable Link A) so you will always measure 12 volts there (or whatever the battery reads).

 

check the ground right above the alternator. a wire from your alternator goes to a plug then the plug goes to a metal piece that grounds to your engine. i just fixed mine a hour ago by tightening that bolt. now im gettin great charge.