Need Help, 96 Max SE, Really Hard Start
06-20-2011, 07:34 PM
#41
Went to start it this morning to try to take it to work, but it wouldn't start. So much different than last evening.
There is something very definitely intermittent. I'm going to connect an LED from the START SIGNAL wire and see if that is intermittent. It has to be something like that.
Mike
There is something very definitely intermittent. I'm going to connect an LED from the START SIGNAL wire and see if that is intermittent. It has to be something like that.
Mike
Currently, my starts are slightly better but, still starts hard after several cranks. What I did was bought two 4 gauge 24in. terminal cables from walmart ($5 each) I routed one cable from the neg. battery terminal to the starter bolt and the other from the neg. terminal (engine ground bracket on front of the engine) to a tranny bolt (on tranny casing next to shift fork). I still need to check my Cam Sensor because I'm getting a code. Hopefully that is my main problem. If that does not work, I will have to drop my tranny and sand down the mating surfaces on the engine and tranny
.Believe me, Im irritated too!!!!
Here is how my hard starts sounds, is this how yours sounds:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIpAaHfsuxU
or
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPVAv...eature=related
How to fix:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBoykVx7AGw
Last edited by mpvibes; 06-20-2011 at 07:45 PM.
06-21-2011, 02:15 PM
#42
Starting Issue Fixed!!!
I FIXED MY CAR!!! I FINALLY FIXED MY STARTING ISSUE!!! NO MORE HARD STARTS!!!!
This morning, I checked my cam sensor and it was filled with oil sludge. I cleaned it off and installed it back in it’s original place. I went start the car and I still had the same hard start problem!!!
I was like damn, I’m stumped. Prior to doing this I changed my crank position sensor. So, that ruled out my crank position sensor and cam sensor for my starting issues.
Here is how I fixed my starting issue:
Ground 1: Cleaned (sand it down) Stock ground and got a new 4 gauge negative terminal cable.
Ground 2: 24” 4 gauge terminal cable from negative terminal (directly on battery) to top starter bolt.
Ground 3: Added an additional 24” 4 gauge terminal cable from stock ground to a 14mm bolt on the engine side bellhousing (the bolt that is to the left of the crank position sensor, its right next to it) Also, when u take off the 14mm bolt, make sure you clean it (sand it down).
THAT’S ALL!!! Now, my car starts up like new on every single crank!!!!
I can see how the starting issue can be frustrating when never resolved and I see why people would junk there maxima’s for such a problem. I don’t even think the average mechanic that knows nothing about Nissan’s or Nissan Maxima would be able to fix such a problem. They would charge you $5,000 for a $10-20 fix! Thank God, I was not in that boat! Point is, this is somewhat of a” ghost mechanical malfunction” with our cars.
I’M RELIEVED!!! NO MORE EMBARRASSING STARTS @ PUBLIC PLACES!!!
Parts Needed:
3m sand paper
1 4 gauge negative terminal cable ($10 @ walmart)
2 24” 4 gauge terminal cables ($5 each @ walmart)
I GOT PICS OF MY SET UP! LET ME KNOW IF YOU WANT THEM, I CAN POST THEM UP ON HERE! PEACE
This morning, I checked my cam sensor and it was filled with oil sludge. I cleaned it off and installed it back in it’s original place. I went start the car and I still had the same hard start problem!!!
I was like damn, I’m stumped. Prior to doing this I changed my crank position sensor. So, that ruled out my crank position sensor and cam sensor for my starting issues.Here is how I fixed my starting issue:
Ground 1: Cleaned (sand it down) Stock ground and got a new 4 gauge negative terminal cable.
Ground 2: 24” 4 gauge terminal cable from negative terminal (directly on battery) to top starter bolt.
Ground 3: Added an additional 24” 4 gauge terminal cable from stock ground to a 14mm bolt on the engine side bellhousing (the bolt that is to the left of the crank position sensor, its right next to it) Also, when u take off the 14mm bolt, make sure you clean it (sand it down).
THAT’S ALL!!! Now, my car starts up like new on every single crank!!!!
I can see how the starting issue can be frustrating when never resolved and I see why people would junk there maxima’s for such a problem
. I don’t even think the average mechanic that knows nothing about Nissan’s or Nissan Maxima would be able to fix such a problem. They would charge you $5,000 for a $10-20 fix! Thank God, I was not in that boat! Point is, this is somewhat of a” ghost mechanical malfunction” with our cars.I’M RELIEVED!!! NO MORE EMBARRASSING STARTS @ PUBLIC PLACES!!!
Parts Needed:
3m sand paper
1 4 gauge negative terminal cable ($10 @ walmart)
2 24” 4 gauge terminal cables ($5 each @ walmart)
I GOT PICS OF MY SET UP! LET ME KNOW IF YOU WANT THEM, I CAN POST THEM UP ON HERE! PEACE
Last edited by mpvibes; 06-21-2011 at 02:20 PM.
06-21-2011, 03:21 PM
#43
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 51
Congrats, I'll bet it DOES feel great.
I've got other projects that are taking precedence (a fence and the weather and a play tonight with my family. Hopefully tomorrow night I can check out my theory and see if I'm right.
Mike
I've got other projects that are taking precedence (a fence and the weather and a play tonight with my family. Hopefully tomorrow night I can check out my theory and see if I'm right.
Mike
06-21-2011, 05:15 PM
#44
. Let me know the progress on your car when you get a chance.
06-22-2011, 07:07 PM
#45
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 51
Well, I worked on the Maxima again, and seemed to have made a little progress, but it's still not right.
I was thinking that the "Start Signal" to the ECM was perhaps not making good contact, and measured it, but It shows 10v (9.99) to the ECM chassis and considering that I've got 11.02 at the battery with the starter running, this seems reasonable. I was thinking that it might be loaded down to less than 5 volts from a bad starter switch or crummy connections.
So I added some more grounds to the starter and from the intake to the chassis. Starts better, but it's still trying to fire one of the pistons too soon (loads down the starter) but it is starting better.
Gotta brew on it some more.
Mike
I was thinking that the "Start Signal" to the ECM was perhaps not making good contact, and measured it, but It shows 10v (9.99) to the ECM chassis and considering that I've got 11.02 at the battery with the starter running, this seems reasonable. I was thinking that it might be loaded down to less than 5 volts from a bad starter switch or crummy connections.
So I added some more grounds to the starter and from the intake to the chassis. Starts better, but it's still trying to fire one of the pistons too soon (loads down the starter) but it is starting better.
Gotta brew on it some more.
Mike
06-22-2011, 08:01 PM
#46
i apologize if this has already been said bc i mainly skimmed over the replies that i saw but i had a very hard start issue when i first got my 97 se and ended up going and buying a $5 ground wire from a parts house here in town and went from - on battery to bellhousing on tranny and it started right up.. hope that helps and im not double posting a reply
06-23-2011, 12:32 PM
#47
Well, I worked on the Maxima again, and seemed to have made a little progress, but it's still not right.
I was thinking that the "Start Signal" to the ECM was perhaps not making good contact, and measured it, but It shows 10v (9.99) to the ECM chassis and considering that I've got 11.02 at the battery with the starter running, this seems reasonable. I was thinking that it might be loaded down to less than 5 volts from a bad starter switch or crummy connections.
So I added some more grounds to the starter and from the intake to the chassis. Starts better, but it's still trying to fire one of the pistons too soon (loads down the starter) but it is starting better.
Gotta brew on it some more.
Mike
I was thinking that the "Start Signal" to the ECM was perhaps not making good contact, and measured it, but It shows 10v (9.99) to the ECM chassis and considering that I've got 11.02 at the battery with the starter running, this seems reasonable. I was thinking that it might be loaded down to less than 5 volts from a bad starter switch or crummy connections.
So I added some more grounds to the starter and from the intake to the chassis. Starts better, but it's still trying to fire one of the pistons too soon (loads down the starter) but it is starting better.
Gotta brew on it some more.
Mike
06-23-2011, 03:39 PM
#48
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 51
I have two grounds from there. One from the starter bolt (double wires) and one from the bell housing, both going to the battery negative lead. I have several other grounds that I added as well.
Drove it to work today and some running around. Turns over just fine and sometimes it fires somewhat weird, but does start.
Mike
Drove it to work today and some running around. Turns over just fine and sometimes it fires somewhat weird, but does start.
Mike
06-24-2011, 02:25 PM
#50
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 51
Don't have to. When it's running, it's running GREAT. Just a hard start (misfires when trying to start). I'm going to connect a wire from the battery to a switch and then to the "Start Signal" wire on the ECM and try that tonight.
UPDATE: Nope, didn't work. I ran a wire from the Battery + to a switch and to the "Start Signal" wire on the ECM (Pin 20). Tried to start it and pressed the button. No difference. Then to make sure that I had the right wire, I checked the voltage with a meter and I got 10.6 volts when the Starter is running.
Mike
UPDATE: Nope, didn't work. I ran a wire from the Battery + to a switch and to the "Start Signal" wire on the ECM (Pin 20). Tried to start it and pressed the button. No difference. Then to make sure that I had the right wire, I checked the voltage with a meter and I got 10.6 volts when the Starter is running.
Mike
Last edited by MikeF; 06-24-2011 at 03:07 PM.
06-29-2011, 04:46 PM
#51
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 51
Finally got it figured out.
Turned out to be the starter! I had changed the brushes on my original starter after it quit, but I'm guessing that one of the two set's wasn't properly seated. Just didn't turn the car over fast enough. (Sure sounded like it worked OK.)
New starter fixed it.
I finally understand why fixing the grounds fixes some of the cars for poor starting.
Mike
Turned out to be the starter! I had changed the brushes on my original starter after it quit, but I'm guessing that one of the two set's wasn't properly seated. Just didn't turn the car over fast enough. (Sure sounded like it worked OK.)
New starter fixed it.
I finally understand why fixing the grounds fixes some of the cars for poor starting.
Mike
07-01-2011, 10:18 AM
#53
Finally got it figured out.
Turned out to be the starter! I had changed the brushes on my original starter after it quit, but I'm guessing that one of the two set's wasn't properly seated. Just didn't turn the car over fast enough. (Sure sounded like it worked OK.)
New starter fixed it.
I finally understand why fixing the grounds fixes some of the cars for poor starting.
Mike
Turned out to be the starter! I had changed the brushes on my original starter after it quit, but I'm guessing that one of the two set's wasn't properly seated. Just didn't turn the car over fast enough. (Sure sounded like it worked OK.)
New starter fixed it.
I finally understand why fixing the grounds fixes some of the cars for poor starting.
Mike
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