gatorsteeler

I whacked a curb on passenger side while back. Alignment got whacked as well. Steering wheel about 45 degrees to the right to drive straight. I needed new axles anyway up front so I changed those out, didn't notice anything bent or out of norm while servicing. Took it to Tire Kingdom to get alignment w/print out of final readings. The problem is I don't know how to compare these readings to what the factory readings should be. I need to purchase a camber kit to correct the camber on the passenger side due to the impact damage- that goes without saying. Take a look at the results and please let me know if I should take it back to correct anything. Thanks.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

You don't need a camber kit. You need to fix what's bent. Guessing strut. Could be lca.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Go to the wrecking yard and get strut, knuckle, inner/outer tie rod, and lca. Hopefully the chassis is not bent.

gatorsteeler

i don't believe i clipped the curb hard/fast enough to warp the chassis. I was taking a right turn from a stop sign in an area with no street lights and turned it right into a sewer gutter that was about 12 feet PAST the stop sign! so the wheel took direct impact while turned. I wouldn't be surprised at all if something got bent (the components you mentioned) but I figured Tire Kingdom would have notified of this :/
especially after I specifically told them what happened.

gatorsteeler

does anyone know if the caster settings should be so high in the positive angles???

asand1

iTrader: (1)

They might not be able to recognize a bent part. Its not easy to see just looking. The numbers make it pretty clear that something is bent.

gatorsteeler

true, so being that the steering wheel got jacked up once tire met curb...could tie rod possibly be the main culprit for that?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If I had to bet, I'd say the LCA is bent. Here's the alignment specs for a 97. I don't know if all 4th gens are the same.

Camber
Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum −1°00' (−1.00°)
Nominal −0°15' (−0.25°)
Maximum 0°30' (0.50°)
Left and right difference 45¢ (0.75°) or less

Caster
Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum 2°00' (2.00°)
Nominal 2°45' (2.75°)
Maximum 3°30' (3.50°)
Left and right difference 45¢ (0.75°) or less

Kingpin inclination
Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum 13°30' (13.50°)
Nominal 14°15' (14.25°)
Maximum 15°00' (15.00°)

Total toe-in
Distance (A − B) mm (in)
Minimum 1 (0.04)
Nominal 2 (0.08)
Maximum 3 (0.12)

Angle (left plus right)
Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum 5.5' (0.09°)
Nominal 11' (0.18°)
Maximum 16' (0.27°)

Wheel turning angle - Full turn
Degree minute (Decimal degree)
• Inside
Minimum 36°00' (36.00°)
Nominal 39°30' (39.50°)
Maximum 40°30' (40.50°)
• Outside
Nominal 32°00' (32.00°)

gatorsteeler

thanks for this Dennis. the thing that sticks out here in comparison is the caster difference, where your input indicates a MINIMUM of 2 degrees positive and nominally 2.75 deg. As you can see, mine is set well below that. That gives me a reason to take it back in and have them correctly set that to spec, and an excuse to check for damage they might have missed (ignored). I have to admit, I am very green to suspension components, but this is hightening my interest to learn. where did you locate this? i'd like to bookmark this if they have more factory specs.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The info is from the Nissan FSM (Factory Service Manual), section FA - Front Axel, page 26 in the 1997 manual. I don't know what year your car is, but the page numbers will vary in different year manuals.

If you need to download a manual, Go here -

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/

The file named fwd.pdf is the chapter index file for the manual.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index file for the manual.

All in all, I have never heard of a place that does alignments that does not have the specs. They have to have them because every make and model car is different.

But they probably can't get the adjustment in spec because car manufacturers don't build that much leeway into the adjustments. To get real information when a car has been damaged, you have to go to a a frame shop, a place that repairs accident damage. They have people that are trained in suspension and don't walk around with their heads stuffed up their butts.

gatorsteeler

thanks again. unfortunately, i think most people in this area all have their heads up their butts no matter what their profession....not the most educated of areas lol...unless it involves duct tape, super glue, and some velcro, cuz we all know if that ain't gonna fix it, nuthin' is! thanks for the help

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

Do all the bushings while you're doing LCA's (if they haven't already been done), and if those end links are looking tired get both of them along with ball joints, you'd be surprised how awesome the front end of this car can feel....

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

That's correct. Obviously you bent something.