S1cTech

I don't understand this, It is quite frustrating. the job sucked enough as it is. Now it looks like I got to rip it out again and re do it. I know it supposed to be at least 14.6-14.8. like I have learned my whole life but for some reason this is all this alt does. Now when I took out the old alt there was a 2 pin plug that I took out and the old pin broke off. It got stuck in the plug. I tried to rip that pin out and successfully out it out of the harness. Now I am worrying maybe I could of damaged it, but I honestly don't really know what that plug is for other then maybe accessories or something. Could that cause volt differences? Cause I kinda doubt it. I don't think I will ever buy anything at Consumer auto parts again. Everything sucks there. Paid $144 with $75 core.

I need to buy a clamp I guess too see how many Amps it is running.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

That 2 pin connector is very important to the alternator working. The yellow/black stripe wire provides battery voltage to the stator so that the alternator will work. The other wire, white/red stripe is for the alternator dash light.

But since you are measuring 13.3 volts, which is more than battery voltage, the yellow/black wire is making connection. The alternator evidently has a bad voltage regulator. As you are dreading, rip it out and replace it.

FYI - the voltage reading for a good alternator is 14.1 to 14.7 volts.

S1cTech

awesome, Thats what I wanted to know. Thanks.

cashoit

damn S1 man...im pretty sure my new alt came from CAP. No problems here man. I let my mech install that bish. I looked at the FSM for how to do and saw compressor removal and smh man. I wasnt do that shyt lol

S1cTech

lol it was crazy. Dude, I couldnt even take out the compressor the bolts were water welded. IT was ridict!

Daniel1120

iTrader: (1)

That sucks man. Same thing happened to me with an alternator from autozone. Two days after I swapped it it crapped out. Replaced it again about a year ago and now its going out again. GL, hopefully this time around its not so tough for you.

S1cTech

Replaced my alt, It is throwing out 13.9 volts. A lot better then what it was doing with the old alt. I will take that. I don't know why it won't go higher but it is better then low 13s hell it was even doing 12.6 at one point once the batteries drained form their floating point. This one stays at 13.9 the whole time. I just wish I could test the alt itself with a volt meter instead of in car, because I heard a dead cell in one of my 3 batteries could cause slight differences in voltage.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The voltage level is slightly below spec but There are other people that say they are running just fine at 13.9 volts. I don't know if this is because a "comparable" component was used in the rebuilding or if you don't have a 110 amp alternator.

Nisan used 100 and 110 amp alternators on the maxima through the 1997 model (Calif vs Fed) but dropped the 100 amp in 98. Nissan uses other amperage alternators on other models. The pathfinder had a 80 amp unit that would bolt on to a maxima and work (as long as you didn't need the extra amps).

I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think that a dead cell in a battery would affect the voltage from the alternator. But if you have 3 batteries, then disconnect them and measure each one seperately.

S1cTech

I will just have to buy a Clamp then. It would suck if I were getting less then 110. When i have a system that uses about 200amps. lol, I don't believe in paying $400 for a highout alt either (plus I heard they ruin all electrical things through out the life of the car) I don't bump enough to get up to 200amps anyway, but I would also like to have 110. lol

I really don't wanna spend the money to buy a clamp because they are only useful for amps, but I will have too I guess

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Call the auto parts stores by you and see if you can rent one. Should be less expensive than buying one.

Daniel1120

iTrader: (1)

Glad you got it s1ctech. I replaced mine again yesterday, after it was puttin out 14.2 volts. Today, not so much. It down anywhere from 10.5-12.2!! And thats with a 2 day old battery. Fyck autozone alternators.

ajm8127

iTrader: (8)

That's preposterous. The car will only draw as much current as it needs. No more. If the voltage from the high output alternator was not regulated properly, that could cause damage.

One thing that could ruin the alternator is draining all three batteries by playing your system with the car off, and then starting the car. The alternator is only designed the charge one battery at a time.

Or if you have a shorted (dead?) cell, the batteries and the alternator will be in a constant struggle to raise the voltage of the faulty battery. This actually could result in a catastrophic failure. Nominal voltage of one cell is like 2.1 volts. So if one cell is shorted, the other batteries and the alternator are going to try to raise the voltage of the battery. The only way to do this is to overcharge the five remaining working cells. Over time, I'm sure this would not end well.

Each battery should probably be isolated from the others.