Ejay98max

My Max has a problem when it has been sitting for awhile and I go out to start it, it cranks for awhile and I need to give it some gas in order for it to start. If no gas is given at the pedal it will crank for a longer amount of time and will eventually start but the rpms will be kinda low and they will slowly climb. I take off and while under acceleration its pretty smooth but at idle it tends to sputter aggressive until the car warms up (it only does this if car has been sitting for more than 10-15 minutes) Well the other night I stopped at the gas station and left the car on while a friend went in to get a case of brew. We left the store and nothing seemed to be wrong with the car it ran fine until about 5 minutes down the road the car just turned off while accelerating up a small hill leaving a stop sign. It didn't stutter when it died out it just stopped running like switching it off with the key, the hid lights stayed on, radio, and the dash lights were on like in accessory position. I turned the key to try to attempt to restart and I got nothing, just a click noise from around the fuse box and the radio and clock would turn off every time the key was turned. Got it towed home and let it sit over night next morning nothing so i jumped the starter and that cranked the motor but no fire up I'm assuming because theres no signal to the coils for spark etc since I'm not turning the key.
Any suggestions?
Thanks Guys!

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

The ignition switch is cheap and relatively easy to replace so I would start there. Except for the car dying while it was turned on it sounds like you may have a bad starter. When my starter went I had to give it gas to get it started. The starter would crank but it was a weak crank so it was difficult to start. You could remove the starter and get it tested. It's also a fairly simple job.

Although they can go bad the crank senors are generally pretty reliable. You may have multiple issues and may just have to work through them.

97WhMaximaGle

yes they are supposed to be fairly reliable but i pull a code on crank and cam sensors in my car and i have the same issue you do except the dying while driving all mine does is when i let off the gas it bogs down like its gonna die but it catches itself. uhm the clicking noise i would suggest ignition switch like was said its not hard to do just takes like 30-45 minutes if you have tools with you. and starter doesnt take much to remove to go have tested but i can say i had my alt tested starter tested and i replaced the ignition switch and my problems never got any better mine actually got worst when i switched out the ignition switch.....so now im doing knock sensor and all of the cam and crank sensors.

Ejay98max

Thanks for the info the stater i fairly new and when I engage the starter with a jumper wire it cranks the engine strong but thats all it does is crank it my concern is when i turn the key there is no response at all just the clock and radio turning off (normal) there is a single "click" sound down by the fuse box each time the key is turned.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The part about the clock & radio is normal. The click you hear is possibly from the Ignition Relay that is located on the left side of the fuse panel. You would have to take off the big plastic panel that makes up the bottom of the dash to get access to the relay. There are 3 relays there.

The top most is the Accessory Relay; middle one is the Ignition Relay and the bottom one is the Blower Motor Relay.

You can swap the relay with one of the others, I would suggest using the Blower Motor Relay. I think all 3 relays are the same type, but compare the pin connections on the bottom of the relay before swapping, though.

But a bad ignition switch is still a possible cause as it sends power to the fuel pump, fuel injectors and the coil packs.

Ejay98max

On the way to checking the relays i decided to take another look at the fuses, well I over looked the engine control fuse it was popped so I replaced it and as soon as I turned the key again pop! another fuse gone I think this is leading to my problem... any ideas??

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I don't know which fuse is blowing when you tell me engine control. There are little numbers on the right side of the fuse. If you could tell me that number (and the amperage as a double check), I can work with that.

93SCMax

iTrader: (3)

If you keep popping the 7.5 amp ECCS fuse, then you may have a short in your ECU. The fuse is the E57 fuse in the engine compartment.

Did you spill anything on the dash or main console that could have dripped onto the ecu?