Pilot8680

My '95 Maxima has some drag noise coming from passenger rear everytime I step on the brake and noticeably the wheel has more brake dust. I'm going to take the wheel off and inspect the brake soon but would like to know what might be the cause of the dragging noise?

comingup

The slider pins that the brake caliper connects to like to freeze up if they are not re-greased. I'd take off the calipers and check that first, clean them and apply anti-seize. Also make sure the little rubber boots are still in-tact.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

The dragging noise is probably a pad with no friction material left. Sometimes they just make a low pitch grinding noise most people wouldn't associate with brakes going metal to metal. Pull your wheel and check your pads and rotor. Frozen pins will generally cause heavier wear on the inside pad.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

The slider pins arent your noise, its probably the cause of your noise though. Are your pads worn? 4th gen calipers make it easy to burn through the pads unknowingly if your pins frozen. Then the pad will be gone and the metal that holds the brake pad in place on the rotor will be all thats left and soon after that they crumple and your calipers seize up and you have to take all that mess out. It wont do any major damage, youll just have to replace your pads and rotors but its a pain because you cant drive it AT ALL. The rear will totally lock up. This sounds like your problem, as it happened to me previously and numerous other .org members as well, so you need to replace your pads ASAP! Unless of course you just like to change your rotors?

comingup

Your caliper piston might be frozen as well; I replaced the right rear on my old maxima when it froze shut last year. Helped my friend I just sold the car too replace the drivers side last week, as it froze open. Whatever the case, don't forget about those pins!

Asand1 is right, used brake pads don't always squeal.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

a frozen piston wouldn't cause a noise though. You only changed one side of the car and put on "used" brake pads? why?

comingup

I didn't put on used pads, I was simply saying I wore my pads down before without noticing any squealing. I replaced a frozen caliper.

I use the term "frozen" loosely here, but it can hold the pads against the disc and make a grinding noise from not retracting right away.

I'd put my money on frozen/rusty pins, probably in combination with worn pads and maybe even a bad caliper.

Try using your e-brake on some gravel at a slow speed and check if both tires lock up. Is there any play in your e-brake? e.g. have to pull it nearly all the way up to feel pressure?

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

Im not trying to flame you or anything but why would the gravel thing be a good idea and how would it be possible for that matter anyways? The E-brake cable can be pulled a ton or just a few clicks. After doing my brakes I have to pull a lot more than I did before I changed them the last time. Its all relative to the cable position. It doesnt matter to me and it doesnt matter for the actual functionality of the e brake anyways

comingup

I'm not offended, just talking.

The gravel thing would let you know if both of your rear calipers are operating normally.

I'm only speaking from experiences I had with my old 98, and that's how I figured there was a problem in the back, especially after I replaced the one caliper.

I suppose you are right though about the cable position but if you can't get sufficient pressure to the brakes in the back, I hope you have good compression because it will roll, and maybe not right away. (even in gear)

Ask me how I know

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

lol I dont wanna know. Mine takes about 5 or 6 clicks to lock up so its not so bad. Most people don't know to put the car in N with your foot on the brake, then pull the E-brake and then switch to park. If you switch to park first and let the car lurch forward then do the E-brake then the E-brake isnt holding your car lol the parking brake is and its bad for your tranny too. Sux you had to replace a caliper, mine are still the stockers

comingup

It wasn't all the bad honestly, as long as you have someone to help bleed the brakes for you. I have a 5pd and I kinda just assume everyone else does on here sometimes.

I thought it was the bikes that had pulled up to me at the intersection that smelled like burning. That's about the time I saw the white cloud billowing from my wheel. Good times

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

I just pump the brakes until all the air is out, I wish I had one of those fancy bleeders....goodness gracious. I knew my pad crumpled when I was backing out of a parking space, heard a god awful noise, and then I had to floor it to move. Got out, looked around, couldn't see anything and was stumped for a while. Then I saw the tread marks and realized my driver side rear wheel was locked and the metal pad housing was crumpled, therefore seizing my entire wheel up from moving. Just had to replace and finally broke down and went with ceramic pads all around and 2 year(I think) pro-stop rotors all around as well.

comingup

Fancy bleeders? Just loosen the screw a little and pump pump pump, have a stick handy to keep your brake pedal depressed and tighten that baby up. I had a pad pop on me actually about 2 months ago. I knew it needed changing but then I heard and felt a little pop and heard pieces falling. Of course, my old Maxi had frozen pins which I'm preeeetty sure caused that.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

A brake bleeder? To bleed the air out? Pumping your brakes like you and I do isnt the most efficient way to bleed your brakes. The sell these expensive contraptions to bleed your brakes the right way

comingup

Haha I know what bleeding them does, I just didn't know they made contraptions for doing it. Seemed pretty straightforward to me, get that air out!

asand1

iTrader: (1)

QFT a frozen tire will not cause a dragging noise (unless your talking about the tire). A frozen tire WILL cause the pad to quickly wear down to metal and make a dragging grinding noise.

I think we can all agree it needs a tear down and inspection.

comingup

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

Do you read what you write or just kinda throw your fingers at the keyboard? BC it seems like the latter....My CALIPER locked up which made my WHEEL not be able to rotate and yes that makes it drag when you try to drive. A frozen tire will wear your pad? are you in the 1st grade? if your wheel doesnt turn you cant drive lol. let me know if you cant comprehend this either good lord

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

and how would a tire freeze anyways? Maybe on your car you have to deal with tires freezing but if you want to post nonsense go elsewhere

comingup

The hub bearing can potentially freeze your wheel if you don't fix the frozen piston problem. The increased heat will boil out your grease and its all down hill from there.

Ask me how I know

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

You have to drive on a frozen piston for awhile for that to happen...no I wont ask how long you did lol

comingup

I drove from Chicago to Gulf Port Mississippi.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

we better quit talking, not like this is a forum or anything. Might make asand cry again

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Lol I meant caliper. And a dragging tire would be pretty obvious.

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

take the pads out and see if you can slide the caliper back and forth. lube the slider pins up. check the pads to see which side is worn more (inner or outer).

slfalco

My experience with a 99 is that the mechanical E-brake function on the caliper can rust up inside.. The way to check is to see if the lever on the caliper moves freely between the 2 extremes (there is a return spring on it, and I have seen where it can get stuck and not return). If this happens your brakes will drag and the pads (particularly the inner one) will wear prematurely. There is no way to repair this, the caliper must be replaced. This has nothing to do with the sliders or anything hydraulic.