ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

You can still have some sort of geometry with your drop. It really depends on how much you lower it. Once you really start lowering it, geometry gets all out of whack. This is why the auto-x guys buy coils and barely lower their cars. They're looking for optimal handling and that can really only be achieved at that height which is closer to stock.

max_dreamer

iTrader: (2)

I think they only lower it so much because they will eventually get to where I am! Hard, lock to lock turns rub the inner and outer fenders as I sit right now. My bet is they probably go as low as possible without running into anything. Not to mention it is HELL on axles. I'm sure you've noticed that turning your wheels will slightly raise and lower each corner which is how the suspension maintains the correct geometry. I honestly believe the only thing that really suffers are things like bushing, from the constant stress instead of momentary, and maybe ball joints and tie rods for the same reason.

WesCTR

iTrader: (2)

you don't understand how lowering maximas past a couple of inches ruins the suspension geometry. chris and i aren't talking about simply keeping the car balanced. going lower ends up putting the axles below the control arms, which affects the roll center and creates unnecessary stress on the axles. there's a thread in the advanced handling, braking, and chassis forum that dives into this. it's a pretty good read. i learned a lot from it.

if we had adjustable control arms, we could lower our maximas even more than 2 inches, without ruining the suspension geometry. there's actually a lot of engineering that would have to go into us having great suspension geometry at substantially lower heights. i definitely suggest reading through some of those threads. very informative.

max_dreamer

iTrader: (2)

I fully understand that the axles are being ruined being this low, but other than ticking I haven't had a single problem. The roll center is changed, but that was already taken into consideration on the stock suspension as well... If you crank the car into a corner, the shocks are going to depress and change the roll center anyways. Its all within the limits of the stock suspension travel. If your not changing a mounting point on the suspension, then your not changing the geometry... The only thing I'm doing by being this low is wearing out parts faster than anticipated. When that time comes, i'll put better ones in and be fine...

WesCTR

iTrader: (2)

this is why i suggest you read some of those threads. it's not that simple.

WesCTR

iTrader: (2)

start with this one.

http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...try-101-a.html

max_dreamer

iTrader: (2)

I've read most of them... There's quite a bit of fluff in them too, so I'm sure I haven't read them all. It might not be THAT easy, but its really not that complicated either. I already realize I'm to the point on lowering, where it hurts a few parts here and there, but in my driving experience, its all good. I am far more stable in corners and at high speeds. Its more predictable than the stock sloppy suspension.

WesCTR

iTrader: (2)

i feel you man lol. i'm getting coils soon and i have every intention on dumping my car. it's not a track car so i don't care at all lol.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Yeah, your geometry is out of whack but the car feels more stable. I loved my previous Eibach/AGX set up set to full stiff. The car handled pretty well compared to stock.

Our set ups won't compare to coils at around stock height though. I'm trying to keep a balance of looks and handling. The car will be lowered but not dumped and the coils will be set to full stiff.

max_dreamer

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I'm probably more on the dumped side but its within reason. Its still streetable and hasn't killed an axle yet. I'm also only 7-10 stiff. There is still plenty of adjustments I can make if I were to feel unstable at any point in time.

WesCTR

iTrader: (2)

stability comes from the decreased body roll. i like your drop. your car is clean. i'm probably going lower so i hope i don't encounter too many issues.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

for real? grrrrrr you had them lol! My suspension height will be a little lower than stock. probably over an inch but not more than 1.5". Im getting 2 hd raxles tmrw(for $120 mind you @ 5k hehehe) so when my suspension is done? Ill put it up against any CO only set-up. Sure its not as good but its what I think is best for my end goal. Also tmrw I will be getting 300zx calipers already set up for the 4th gen so the handling of mine will be good AND I can keep from killing myself. to get back off topic lol, has anybody driven on tsw's wrapped in 245? this seems far to wide for a max and seems it can only rub

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

TSW makes a **** load of wheels............

with your expert suspension knowledge you should be able to figure it out

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

I had the springs, not the adjustable sleeve overs.

handmedown

I'm looking to modify. currently stock. 97 gxe (auto) 92k
Need to work on my handling suspension first - its horrible
This is my list:

-Cheap- Front arm kit - FCPImport

-Sub frame collars-Bought

-Asmoil syn oil/Amoil syn trans oil (flush) to be done this weekend (bought)

-New NKg shocks (this weekend)

- So my debate is either Shocks/Strut Springs (H&R & Illuminas) - or coilovers - Only looking for about 1.5 " drop - looking for improved handling but do not want too harsh of a ride?? "what should i get"?

_New wheels/tires... thinking Motegi racing 17" m125's- I wish they just came in plain silver instead of gray/titanium( need to save) would love some g35 6 spoke but there actually more expensive 159 @ piece- have not purchased

any comments appreciated
Thanks

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

suspension is very personal. However, our cars have a limited after-market and this makes it hard to decide. Everybody on here will say CO's and its a good choice for a 1 stop shop. wheels are also very personal. Tiger, no they don't make alot for 4th gens. at all. guy wants $400 for 5k old rims and tires. even if they arent my first choice, I cant pass that deal up for even just the 245 wide tires

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

well you can disregard the coilovers since they wont help your handling....

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

The only coils that are comfy are Tein's because of they're low spring rates and use of stock strut mounts but you lose suspension travel as you lower which is weak in my book.

Go with H&R's/Illumina's.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

I said they don't improve it enough to warrant the cost. Get it right if your gonna be a smart ***. Low end CO's are perfect for people who aren't essentially building a new suspension like me. Co's are not the end all be all of suspension set-ups. CO's simply make it easy to upgrade your suspension by taking a few bolts off and sliding em in. For the 4th gen? throwing in CO's doesnt make it handle like a 370 in 1 step. THIS is my point.

handmedown

So I"s it worth replacing the Strut mounts as well if I'm redoing the Shocks & Struts (Illuminas/HR's)"? - I noticed that akg strut mounts are actually cheaper than oem in somecases?

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

Yes, its a good idea to replace the bushings on both front and rear but the OEM front strut mount/top hat rarely NEEDS replacing but they only sell the front bushings with the plate. The rear bushings have no plate per say so you can get them separately. Def a worthwhile purchase and so are new strut boots and bump stops to protect your purchase. I dont know about you but just in taking my OEM strut off the boots fell all apart. GL with the upgrades, you wont be sorry no matter the direction you choose. oh BTW GC's coil sleeves with AGX's are the way to go, ask chrisman

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

It looks like you'll be spending more for your set up that won't handle as well. Struts/springs with new axles won't give you superior handling. Maybe if you had better struts like Koni's that are valved specifically for your set up but that's not the case at all. A GC/Koni set up would probably out handle my KSport's but it would also cost more. I would prefer that set up but I got my coils for as much as the Koni's cost alone.

GC's + Koni's + camber plates = pretty much $1500 but that would be a sick set up.

How many miles do you have on your strut mounts? You could go with AGX's but they're not valved as soft as Illumina's which will equal a harsher ride, especially in the cold.

-ReLLiK-

iTrader: (1)

Well from what ive heard COs + subframe collars + rear swaybar = handling like this

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

I want subframe collars but no RSB. A LTB would be nice.

-ReLLiK-

iTrader: (1)

^^True dat. If any of those suspension parts from Ultraracing actually fit our cars we'll be in business for sure

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Hell yeah their stuff looks good. A little pricey but so is Stillen and their bars aren't as good they're just prettier.

renots

iTrader: (5)

Ltb