car won't start
03-14-2012, 08:22 PM
#43
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yea it's fine
03-14-2012, 10:12 PM
#44
It sounds like the starter motor is spinning but the starter gear isn't engaging the flywheel. Plus it has some sort of death rasp. Replace the starter.
If you can't return the solenoid that you bought, put the old solenoid back on the starter before you trade it in. Then you can post the new solenoid in the for sale thread.
If you can't return the solenoid that you bought, put the old solenoid back on the starter before you trade it in. Then you can post the new solenoid in the for sale thread.
03-14-2012, 11:26 PM
#45
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It sounds like the starter motor is spinning but the starter gear isn't engaging the flywheel. Plus it has some sort of death rasp. Replace the starter.
If you can't return the solenoid that you bought, put the old solenoid back on the starter before you trade it in. Then you can post the new solenoid in the for sale thread.
If you can't return the solenoid that you bought, put the old solenoid back on the starter before you trade it in. Then you can post the new solenoid in the for sale thread.
03-15-2012, 07:15 AM
#46
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 84
The starter is grounded through the transmission and corrosion can deminish its effectiveness to ground. Adding the ground can resolve this issue. My starting issues were a combination of this, bad power cable connection, and ignition switch. Let us know how the bew starter works, i tried and it didnt help my problems, but was lucky enough to talk the guy into returning it for me.
03-15-2012, 08:52 AM
#47
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Location: MAGNOLIA TX
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but if the starter isnt fully engaging then it won't turn over the motor. did you look at the teeth on the flywheel when you pulled off the starter? the video sounds like the starter is engaging but either not engaging all the way or you're missing some teeth on the flywheel. that would totally explain why it turns but won't turn the motor every time. think everything is fine up to where the starter/flywheel make contact. hopefully it's just the starter not engaging all the way, in other words it's turning but not coming out far enough to grab the flywheel.
Last edited by ADROX; 03-15-2012 at 08:59 AM.
03-21-2012, 06:55 PM
#48
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replaced the starter today and the teeth all looked normal. still no luck though; the new starter gives the same symptoms
and i doubt it's related to corrosion. the intermittent starting didn't show up until the 2nd week of february (at that point it wasn't a recognizable problem) and it got to where it's at now on the last day of february
and i doubt it's related to corrosion. the intermittent starting didn't show up until the 2nd week of february (at that point it wasn't a recognizable problem) and it got to where it's at now on the last day of february
03-23-2012, 01:58 PM
#50
I had a similar starting issue a few years ago and took my starter to get bench tested at 2 different autozones. Both times it tested fine and I was perplexed. A week later with all kinds of tinkering I went ahead and bought a new starter and put it in anyway. Problem was solved from then on. I will sadly never trust a starter bench tested ever again. Worth a shot at putting in a whole new starter with clean grounds, worse case is you just return the starter for a refund.
03-23-2012, 07:10 PM
#52
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Location: MAGNOLIA TX
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replaced the starter today and the teeth all looked normal. still no luck though; the new starter gives the same symptoms
and i doubt it's related to corrosion. the intermittent starting didn't show up until the 2nd week of february (at that point it wasn't a recognizable problem) and it got to where it's at now on the last day of february
and i doubt it's related to corrosion. the intermittent starting didn't show up until the 2nd week of february (at that point it wasn't a recognizable problem) and it got to where it's at now on the last day of february
when you say you looked at all the teeth, do you mean on the starter or on the flywheel that's inside the motor?
03-23-2012, 09:28 PM
#53
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yea when i bought my replacement solenoid i described the problem and the guy said it might be the starter. i told him i got it bench tested twice and he admitted that just cause the bench test says it's good doesn't necessarily mean it's true; especially if it has an unhealthy sound to it
but that's irrelevant since i already installed a new starter
both
but that's irrelevant since i already installed a new starter
both
Last edited by Perseus; 03-23-2012 at 09:32 PM.
03-25-2012, 10:41 AM
#54
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Location: MAGNOLIA TX
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not sure bout these cars ever needing a shim but I know like on the older gm motors sometimes you did. just doesn't make sense to me. think I would warranty that starter one more time if I could. it is possible to buy a bad remanufactured starter if it makes the same sound every time. swear it sounds like it's just not catching for some reason.
but make sure to thoroughly check your cables and connections very good. sand down any ground points related to the starter.
but make sure to thoroughly check your cables and connections very good. sand down any ground points related to the starter.
Last edited by ADROX; 03-25-2012 at 10:45 AM.
03-28-2012, 02:03 PM
#55
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i don't have a warranty on the starter. i would've bought one with a warranty if i could've though =/
as far as it being a ground issue...does that really make sense? can a grounding issue come up and grow exponentially in severity within a couple weeks?
as far as it being a ground issue...does that really make sense? can a grounding issue come up and grow exponentially in severity within a couple weeks?
03-28-2012, 02:16 PM
#56
03-30-2012, 08:19 PM
#59
the main Neg grounding point can get really dirty and the injector grounds right in front of the UIM(2 screws) also get dirty. My mechanic always tells me how much money he has made off of bad grounds and the 15mins it takes to fix it lol. Its a good idea to add some as well if you have a high accessory load or starting problems but don't waste your time grounding it anywhere else but to the frame
04-01-2012, 02:27 AM
#60
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where exactly is the main grounding point? and where can i get the appropriate cable and what should its specs be (terminal size, length, anything else important)? i did a search and could only find skimpy audio wiring. i know i can't just buy any cable cause i need to be able to attach it to the 17mm bolt and somewhere on the frame, but i don't know enough about this stuff to be able to refine it
Last edited by Perseus; 04-01-2012 at 03:26 PM.
04-09-2012, 12:43 PM
#61
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added the ground and replaced the relay just in case. still no luck
after i get gas or pick someone up, starting the car will take a few minutes whereas on cold starts it will start almost immediately
after i get gas or pick someone up, starting the car will take a few minutes whereas on cold starts it will start almost immediately
Last edited by Perseus; 04-09-2012 at 12:57 PM.
05-01-2012, 01:08 AM
#63
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out of fear that the replacement starter i got was faulty i went and got a hold of a third starter. the results are exactly the same but at least i have some peace of mind on that now
for a recap:
-replaced entire starter
-checked battery
-added a ground
-replaced the relay
i had my brother check for a current going from the battery to the starter and he said it was there. i'm thinking i should double check this myself...could someone please give instructions on how to test it with a multimeter? i haven't used one before which is why i had my brother test it in the first place
for a recap:
-replaced entire starter
-checked battery
-added a ground
-replaced the relay
i had my brother check for a current going from the battery to the starter and he said it was there. i'm thinking i should double check this myself...could someone please give instructions on how to test it with a multimeter? i haven't used one before which is why i had my brother test it in the first place
05-02-2012, 08:47 AM
#64
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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you are really not giving me a bunch of hope. I have had a similar periodic starting problem. I get the solenoid click but nothing. NO turn of the starter. After a few key inserts and or turns it just seems to crank over like it was brand new. I have a new 3 month old battery in it and I replaced the negative terminal.
I have replaced the starter and solenoid several times over the life of the car but it just frustrates me.
Anyone have any luck with solenoids or starters from RockAuto?
I have replaced the starter and solenoid several times over the life of the car but it just frustrates me.
Anyone have any luck with solenoids or starters from RockAuto?
05-12-2012, 08:55 PM
#65
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gl finding the root of the problem...and nice name btw lol
anyways i just finished my last final. i've been using my dad's car/not worrying about mine for the past couple of weeks but now that i have a break it's back to solving this problem
i tested the solenoid, this time actually knowing what i was supposed to be doing. it got 12V every time so i'm assuming everything going up to the starter is good
anyways i just finished my last final. i've been using my dad's car/not worrying about mine for the past couple of weeks but now that i have a break it's back to solving this problem
i tested the solenoid, this time actually knowing what i was supposed to be doing. it got 12V every time so i'm assuming everything going up to the starter is good
05-15-2012, 07:57 PM
#68
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spent a fun 4 hours alone in a parking lot today...just got it towed home >.>
in that time i caught a mechanic on his break. he poked around, brought out some scanner(not obd2) and gave a quick diagnosis
he fed the starter some juice and it was cranking so he said it was related to the security system cutting off the starter mechanism/fuel. i told him i was getting 12V from the battery to the starter and he said that was impossible or i would've gotten a crank too. i asked him what he recommended and he said to take it to the dealer. thoughts?
in that time i caught a mechanic on his break. he poked around, brought out some scanner(not obd2) and gave a quick diagnosis
he fed the starter some juice and it was cranking so he said it was related to the security system cutting off the starter mechanism/fuel. i told him i was getting 12V from the battery to the starter and he said that was impossible or i would've gotten a crank too. i asked him what he recommended and he said to take it to the dealer. thoughts?
Last edited by Perseus; 05-15-2012 at 08:04 PM.
05-16-2012, 12:34 PM
#69
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Location: Powder Springs, GA
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spent a fun 4 hours alone in a parking lot today...just got it towed home >.>
in that time i caught a mechanic on his break. he poked around, brought out some scanner(not obd2) and gave a quick diagnosis
he fed the starter some juice and it was cranking so he said it was related to the security system cutting off the starter mechanism/fuel. i told him i was getting 12V from the battery to the starter and he said that was impossible or i would've gotten a crank too. i asked him what he recommended and he said to take it to the dealer. thoughts?
in that time i caught a mechanic on his break. he poked around, brought out some scanner(not obd2) and gave a quick diagnosis
he fed the starter some juice and it was cranking so he said it was related to the security system cutting off the starter mechanism/fuel. i told him i was getting 12V from the battery to the starter and he said that was impossible or i would've gotten a crank too. i asked him what he recommended and he said to take it to the dealer. thoughts?
- When you say "doesn't start" what do you mean? Does the engine crank (or "turn over") but not start? Or does the engine not even crank? If it does not crank sometimes, I would suspect the electric part of the ignition. It's a switch on the end of the lock cylinder. Fairly cheap and easy to replace.
- If it cranks every time, but does not start - that is not a starter issue. You said this happens when the engine is warm - then check out the engine coolant temp sensor. If it is defective, the computer might think the engine is cold when it's not and dump in too much gas.
- I can never remember if the security system in the Max interrupts the starter, interrupts the spark, or interrupts the injectors. Pretty sure it only does one of those things. Good luck.
05-16-2012, 12:55 PM
#70
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Need to ask a couple of questions:
- When you say "doesn't start" what do you mean? Does the engine crank (or "turn over") but not start? Or does the engine not even crank? If it does not crank sometimes, I would suspect the electric part of the ignition. It's a switch on the end of the lock cylinder. Fairly cheap and easy to replace.
- If it cranks every time, but does not start - that is not a starter issue. You said this happens when the engine is warm - then check out the engine coolant temp sensor. If it is defective, the computer might think the engine is cold when it's not and dump in too much gas.
- I can never remember if the security system in the Max interrupts the starter, interrupts the spark, or interrupts the injectors. Pretty sure it only does one of those things. Good luck.
- When you say "doesn't start" what do you mean? Does the engine crank (or "turn over") but not start? Or does the engine not even crank? If it does not crank sometimes, I would suspect the electric part of the ignition. It's a switch on the end of the lock cylinder. Fairly cheap and easy to replace.
- If it cranks every time, but does not start - that is not a starter issue. You said this happens when the engine is warm - then check out the engine coolant temp sensor. If it is defective, the computer might think the engine is cold when it's not and dump in too much gas.
- I can never remember if the security system in the Max interrupts the starter, interrupts the spark, or interrupts the injectors. Pretty sure it only does one of those things. Good luck.
05-19-2012, 06:45 PM
#71
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spent a fun 4 hours alone in a parking lot today...just got it towed home >.>
in that time i caught a mechanic on his break. he poked around, brought out some scanner(not obd2) and gave a quick diagnosis
he fed the starter some juice and it was cranking so he said it was related to the security system cutting off the starter mechanism/fuel. i told him i was getting 12V from the battery to the starter and he said that was impossible or i would've gotten a crank too. i asked him what he recommended and he said to take it to the dealer. thoughts?
in that time i caught a mechanic on his break. he poked around, brought out some scanner(not obd2) and gave a quick diagnosis
he fed the starter some juice and it was cranking so he said it was related to the security system cutting off the starter mechanism/fuel. i told him i was getting 12V from the battery to the starter and he said that was impossible or i would've gotten a crank too. i asked him what he recommended and he said to take it to the dealer. thoughts?
05-23-2012, 12:04 AM
#72
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spent a fun 4 hours alone in a parking lot today...just got it towed home >.>
in that time i caught a mechanic on his break. he poked around, brought out some scanner(not obd2) and gave a quick diagnosis
he fed the starter some juice and it was cranking so he said it was related to the security system cutting off the starter mechanism/fuel. i told him i was getting 12V from the battery to the starter and he said that was impossible or i would've gotten a crank too. i asked him what he recommended and he said to take it to the dealer. thoughts?
in that time i caught a mechanic on his break. he poked around, brought out some scanner(not obd2) and gave a quick diagnosis
he fed the starter some juice and it was cranking so he said it was related to the security system cutting off the starter mechanism/fuel. i told him i was getting 12V from the battery to the starter and he said that was impossible or i would've gotten a crank too. i asked him what he recommended and he said to take it to the dealer. thoughts?
05-23-2012, 08:54 AM
#73
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Powder Springs, GA
Posts: 400
Auto - Online Repair Info
http://search.ebscohost.com/
ID: rrcc
PW: rebsco
Select: Auto Repair Reference Center
Fill in: Find Your Vehicle
Follow prompts down to Wiring Diagrams.
Both the transmission inhibitor switch and the theft relay must work properly to operate the inhibitor relay and allow starting circuit to work, as they are both in the current path between battery and ground that operates the inhibitor relay. If you locate that relay and pull it, then jumper ports 6 and 7 together (blk/wht and blk/red wires), you will have eliminated the theft relay and tranny inhibitor switch from the circuit. If the car then starts, drive it that way for awhile and see if that has eliminated your issue. (WARNING - you will be able to crank car in any gear and anti-theft will be disabled; might also kill cruise control). If that eliminates your issue, then the ultimate problem involves one of those items (tranny inhibitor switch, theft relay, inhibitor relay, associated wires) and you need to troubleshoot there.
If problem still exists, the ultimate problem involves the only things left in the starter circuit (starter, solenoid, ignition switch, associated wiring) and you need to troubleshoot there.
Good luck!
05-23-2012, 03:22 PM
#74
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 2,284
Im having the same starting prob and just bought my 95 maxima today, it started fine all day, until i let it sit in the sun for a while. It cranks and turns over sumtimes, and sumtimes it scrapes the flywheel teeth, i tried it like 5 times and jus gave up.
05-23-2012, 04:17 PM
#76
My wifes mpv does the same damn thing changed out the starter and everything and the car still does it..I wonder what it could be?
05-23-2012, 04:37 PM
#77
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05-23-2012, 04:38 PM
#78
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05-24-2012, 01:17 AM
#79
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Posts: 160
Sorry you are still having problems with this. I just looked at the starting system wiring diagram for a 97 with auto tranny. Here is where you can find the wiring diagrams:
Auto - Online Repair Info
http://search.ebscohost.com/
ID: rrcc
PW: rebsco
Select: Auto Repair Reference Center
Fill in: Find Your Vehicle
Follow prompts down to Wiring Diagrams.
Both the transmission inhibitor switch and the theft relay must work properly to operate the inhibitor relay and allow starting circuit to work, as they are both in the current path between battery and ground that operates the inhibitor relay. If you locate that relay and pull it, then jumper ports 6 and 7 together (blk/wht and blk/red wires), you will have eliminated the theft relay and tranny inhibitor switch from the circuit. If the car then starts, drive it that way for awhile and see if that has eliminated your issue. (WARNING - you will be able to crank car in any gear and anti-theft will be disabled; might also kill cruise control). If that eliminates your issue, then the ultimate problem involves one of those items (tranny inhibitor switch, theft relay, inhibitor relay, associated wires) and you need to troubleshoot there.
If problem still exists, the ultimate problem involves the only things left in the starter circuit (starter, solenoid, ignition switch, associated wiring) and you need to troubleshoot there.
Good luck!
Auto - Online Repair Info
http://search.ebscohost.com/
ID: rrcc
PW: rebsco
Select: Auto Repair Reference Center
Fill in: Find Your Vehicle
Follow prompts down to Wiring Diagrams.
Both the transmission inhibitor switch and the theft relay must work properly to operate the inhibitor relay and allow starting circuit to work, as they are both in the current path between battery and ground that operates the inhibitor relay. If you locate that relay and pull it, then jumper ports 6 and 7 together (blk/wht and blk/red wires), you will have eliminated the theft relay and tranny inhibitor switch from the circuit. If the car then starts, drive it that way for awhile and see if that has eliminated your issue. (WARNING - you will be able to crank car in any gear and anti-theft will be disabled; might also kill cruise control). If that eliminates your issue, then the ultimate problem involves one of those items (tranny inhibitor switch, theft relay, inhibitor relay, associated wires) and you need to troubleshoot there.
If problem still exists, the ultimate problem involves the only things left in the starter circuit (starter, solenoid, ignition switch, associated wiring) and you need to troubleshoot there.
Good luck!
nvm just stumbled upon this http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...or-switch.html i do have some 10 gauge lying around so i should be able to fashion something together and see where things go after classes this week
Last edited by Perseus; 05-24-2012 at 02:35 AM.
05-24-2012, 09:21 AM
#80
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Location: Powder Springs, GA
Posts: 400
thank you very much! so how exactly am i supposed to jump those ports? can i use something i have laying around or will i need to go buy some specific cables for this?
nvm just stumbled upon this http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...or-switch.html i do have some 10 gauge lying around so i should be able to fashion something together and see where things go after classes this week
nvm just stumbled upon this http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...or-switch.html i do have some 10 gauge lying around so i should be able to fashion something together and see where things go after classes this week