What could possibly run with no key and no engine?
02-28-2012, 07:10 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 294
What could possibly run with no key and no engine?
Hi,
(I've searched and searched)
After the car sitting for about 5 hours, I went out to start the car to go somewhere. I started the car but I slipped when cracking (didn't hold it long enough), I was just about to do a redo and I noticed a very weird noise coming from somewhere near the iacv, sounded like a blower fan. It was loud...I removed the key opened the hood and the noise was very strong (the engine is off!) I thought something was going to explode, so I try to start the car with that weird noise and all I got was those start-up lights, no crank, no nothing...
I then ran to get a wrench to disconnect the battery because for sure I thought something was going to blow up. Like a fan operating on a cold day, but the fan wasn't turning. The noise was around the battery iacv area...by the time I got back to the car, the noise stopped (it was maybe 2-3 minutes) and I was able to start the car..I had to crank it a bit (more than usual) but it started...it may have backfired but I'm not too sure.
My starter was replaced about 2 months ago, the iacv and egr was cleaned out about 1 year ago...I have no codes and I was able to start the car a few more times tonight (on my trip home). I have a full tank of gas as well.
Anyone know what the heck was that? It wasn't a ping but a constant loud noise..what could possibly run with no key and no engine?????
(I've searched and searched)
After the car sitting for about 5 hours, I went out to start the car to go somewhere. I started the car but I slipped when cracking (didn't hold it long enough), I was just about to do a redo and I noticed a very weird noise coming from somewhere near the iacv, sounded like a blower fan. It was loud...I removed the key opened the hood and the noise was very strong (the engine is off!) I thought something was going to explode, so I try to start the car with that weird noise and all I got was those start-up lights, no crank, no nothing...
I then ran to get a wrench to disconnect the battery because for sure I thought something was going to blow up. Like a fan operating on a cold day, but the fan wasn't turning. The noise was around the battery iacv area...by the time I got back to the car, the noise stopped (it was maybe 2-3 minutes) and I was able to start the car..I had to crank it a bit (more than usual) but it started...it may have backfired but I'm not too sure.
My starter was replaced about 2 months ago, the iacv and egr was cleaned out about 1 year ago...I have no codes and I was able to start the car a few more times tonight (on my trip home). I have a full tank of gas as well.
Anyone know what the heck was that? It wasn't a ping but a constant loud noise..what could possibly run with no key and no engine?????
02-28-2012, 07:26 PM
#2
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 294
On google I found this
This is the motor mounts gone bad they can be unpluged or replaced to fix them you will have to have it in the air on a lift, to repair the mounts, they will stay on with the key off when bad, Thank You, XXXXX XXXXX know if you have any more questions, ROY!
http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/29w...e-several.html
weird...
This is the motor mounts gone bad they can be unpluged or replaced to fix them you will have to have it in the air on a lift, to repair the mounts, they will stay on with the key off when bad, Thank You, XXXXX XXXXX know if you have any more questions, ROY!
http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/29w...e-several.html
weird...
02-28-2012, 10:05 PM
#5
02-29-2012, 10:34 AM
#10
02-29-2012, 02:10 PM
#13
My 98 has an electric motor mount, some 4th gens came with them (just the front torque mount).
You need narrow down where the sound is coming from. From the fans, tranny side, timing cover side, firewall.
You need narrow down where the sound is coming from. From the fans, tranny side, timing cover side, firewall.
02-29-2012, 08:23 PM
#14
The reason i said starter is because its happened to me before. I buy a brand new starter, take it out the box, bolt it in, hook up the battery cables and the bendix starts spinning right away.
03-01-2012, 06:06 PM
#17
just cause its new doesnt mean it works correctly, ive had the same problem the starter solenoid keeps the starter turning with out it being enguaged to the flywheel...honestly its probly the starter
03-03-2012, 04:37 PM
#18
After turning my MAX off in the parking lot today there was something still operating in the engine. I popped the hood and could hear the starter so I reached down under the air duct and disconnected the IGN wire from the solenoid switch. This is why having small hands has it's advantages.
It wouldn't start back up again so my wife came and picked me up then drove me back with the tools. I first measured the 24F battery and it still had 12.6V even though the starter just partially drained it for around a minute. I then measured the voltage on the disconnected solenoid switch IGN wire and it was reading a constant 9.8V. That confirmed this 8 month old refurbished starter had a shorted solenoid switch so I dismantled it and had my wife take me to Advance Auto. I traded it in for another refurbished starter and had them bench test it first. After easily installing the refurbished starter she started up within a second.
This is the third time within 16 months that I've burnt the elctromagnetic coils in the solenoid switch. I don't hold the key in start for more than 1 second. A 24F battery has more cranking amps than the 35N and I have a 2 AWG GND wire connecting the NEG terminal to the long starter mounting bolt.
Do you think I might be giving the solenoid switch too much current? I'm going to borrow a friend's carbon bile tester tomorrow to compare how much current is drawn during startup with/ without that starter GND wire connected.
It wouldn't start back up again so my wife came and picked me up then drove me back with the tools. I first measured the 24F battery and it still had 12.6V even though the starter just partially drained it for around a minute. I then measured the voltage on the disconnected solenoid switch IGN wire and it was reading a constant 9.8V. That confirmed this 8 month old refurbished starter had a shorted solenoid switch so I dismantled it and had my wife take me to Advance Auto. I traded it in for another refurbished starter and had them bench test it first. After easily installing the refurbished starter she started up within a second.
This is the third time within 16 months that I've burnt the elctromagnetic coils in the solenoid switch. I don't hold the key in start for more than 1 second. A 24F battery has more cranking amps than the 35N and I have a 2 AWG GND wire connecting the NEG terminal to the long starter mounting bolt.
Do you think I might be giving the solenoid switch too much current? I'm going to borrow a friend's carbon bile tester tomorrow to compare how much current is drawn during startup with/ without that starter GND wire connected.
Last edited by jholley; 09-01-2014 at 04:23 AM.
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