help with issue of fluttering @ 2000rpm
#1
help with issue of fluttering @ 2000rpm
I have a 1996 maxima. It started fluttering at 2000 rpm. I can keep it under that and runs fine. Everyone said that it was the MAFS. I spent 230.00 for a new one and that still did not help. Idles great. In park when reved up does the same thing. Any ideals.
#3
I took it to a dealer and they said if it was plugs it would not be ideling good like it is. Also fuel filter should be ok also because I can drive it as long as I keep it under 2000 rpms.. It really doesn't flutter, it jerks, or surges @ 2000. I can ease through the gears and be going 60 mph with no problem. I was reading the forum last night and I read somewhere that it might be a temp control sensor. That makes the ecu think it is overheating and keeps the rpms from rev to protect the engine. Now on the same day that this started it did start to overheat. I had to add a gallon of water. I do have a leak somewhere. I haven't got to check for that yet.
#4
i know someone who's max just died from an anti-freeze leak cause he let it go too long. do a pressure test asap and make sure the anti-freeze and water are 50/50, if you top off with water that won't protect the heads and could cost you a motor. btw, how is it you only have 2 posts and you've been a member almost as long as me?
#5
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Fluttering? Shall we assume it's a misfire?
A faulty MAF hits a dead wall at 2500 RPMs and sets a DTC code.
Check the coil packs with an ohm meter. Make sure they are within spec.
Remove the stalk and spring, check for corrosion where the spring meets the coil contact. This is a common issue as our cars age. If corrosion is present, clean it or replace the coil. A weak spark misfires under a load or at higher RPMs.
A faulty MAF hits a dead wall at 2500 RPMs and sets a DTC code.
Check the coil packs with an ohm meter. Make sure they are within spec.
Remove the stalk and spring, check for corrosion where the spring meets the coil contact. This is a common issue as our cars age. If corrosion is present, clean it or replace the coil. A weak spark misfires under a load or at higher RPMs.
#6
Thanks for all the responses.. I am checking them all. I went to a transmission shop this morning ..they drove it and told me that it was the cat.convertors. So I took it to Midas and they said no. They said that it might be the Idle air control valve....so this is where I am at....Going to check that out in the morning...giving me a headache...what is a rev sensor? Someone mentioned that...
#7
the manual actually recommends a 70-30 mix for temps down to 5F and 50-50 for temps down to -30F for 4th gens
#8
Thanks for all the responses.. I am checking them all. I went to a transmission shop this morning ..they drove it and told me that it was the cat.convertors. So I took it to Midas and they said no. They said that it might be the Idle air control valve....so this is where I am at....Going to check that out in the morning...giving me a headache...what is a rev sensor? Someone mentioned that...
Also check for vacuum leaks. I once had a very small leak that caused a similar problem for me. It ended up being a simple cracked hose.
#9
I still think you should try the fuel filter, on a different car I had it only jerked at low rpms but once you got some rpms going the fuel pressure was enough to get past the partially clogged filter. It's only $10 or so and is an easy job so why not.
#10
i've always run 50/50 here in eastern pa cause thats what the dealer has recommended to me from day one as well as a radiator specialist who replaced my radiator 4 years ago. no issues ever, but another member let his rad fluid leak go and was topping off with water and eventually his heads overheated and his block went south.
#11
+1 new fuel filter can cause problems only partially clogged. I do believe I already mentioned this on the first comment.
#12
I took it to a dealer and they said if it was plugs it would not be ideling good like it is. Also fuel filter should be ok also because I can drive it as long as I keep it under 2000 rpms.. It really doesn't flutter, it jerks, or surges @ 2000. I can ease through the gears and be going 60 mph with no problem. I was reading the forum last night and I read somewhere that it might be a temp control sensor. That makes the ecu think it is overheating and keeps the rpms from rev to protect the engine. Now on the same day that this started it did start to overheat. I had to add a gallon of water. I do have a leak somewhere. I haven't got to check for that yet.
If it's not the coilpacks, then replace the fuel filter because it is an easy inexpensive maintenance.
If, after diagnosing the coilpack, tuneup and replacing the feul filter it still acts up..........then I'm afraid to say it, but it's probably your head gasket then. On a timing chained V6, that's pretty much stage 3 cancer
DW
Last edited by dwapenyi; 03-17-2012 at 11:33 AM.
#15
DW
#16
it had been leaking bad around the thermostat housing. Replaced that. No leak at this time and no overheating. Knock on wood. But the engine I think is about shot. I have over 200 thousand on her. I have got my monies worth out of her I quess. I know that reseting the codes did not fix her, just a bandaide on her. Need to start looking for another ride. It will me another maxima probably.
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