New to the forum, we have a '98 Maxima with 215K; been in the family for 8 years now, still runs like a top.

If the car sits for a while, it'll start right up, but the Battery and Brake dash lights will stay on for 10-15 minutes; they'll eventually go off and (if it's night time) then the lights will get a little brighter as well (surprise). If the car only sits for only a couple of hours, no lights. I read that back in the day there was a recall on the alternator for a diode problem. Wishful thinking would be that I could just go to Nissan now . . .

I'm guessing this is an alternator problem; battery is new - Interstate; is replacing the alternator really the drag that is seems to be based on its location, or is there a secret Chilton's Ninja procedure?

 

unfortunately for you, replacing an alternator really is a pain in the *** to do because of the location. there's no secret procedure but it can be done.

 

Its a drag man.

I have hrd of ppl not having to remove the radiator or fan to get to the alternator. You would have to SEARCH the forum to see if there are any hints.

Per the FSM however, u supposed to remove radiator and fan.

 

Thank you both; not a surprise, but I can think of worse matters to deal with.

 

unnecessary, but definitely gives better access. I've never done it, but I think next time I have to, I'm going to at least remove the fan shroud.

 

You shouldn't need to remove the entire radiator to change it. I have a Mishimoto that's 3x thick as stock radiator and I left it in on my last alternator change. You do have to remove the fan shroud though. It's the 2 top bolts on the radiator and 2 plugs and it lifts out at an angle. There is 2 bolts that hold the alternator in. One on the top near the engine and one below that. It's the bottom bolt that is a pain. You have to slide it through 2 holes on the engine and 2 holes on the alternator it self. It took about an hour and half to install it. Now that I've done it once I can learn from my mistakes and do it even faster next time. Hope this helps, good luck.

 

nope. you don't even have to remove the fan shroud...ask me how i know.

 

It's time consuming but not that bad of a job, just take the right stuff out of the way. Take the fans out and unbolt the a/c compressor from the block. Then the rest is straight forward. Take the belt off, take the electrical connections off of the alt., and then take the bolts out. I think it took me a couple of hours last time I did one. Good luck.

 

With the fan shroud gone it was much easier to position the alternator in place. Considering it's 2 10mm bolts and 2 plugs, I'd say it's worth pulling out. The radiator is a hassle in itself. You'd have to drain it, undo the hose clamps and then fill it once finished.

 

You can change the alternator without removing the radiator, but the extra room you get by removing the radiator makes the job easier as you could damage the radiator with the a/c compressor when you are moving it around.

To the op, the alternator recall was due to the alternator catching on fire.

 

OP, I've had to change mine a ridiculous amount of times in the past 7 months, like 8 times. so I know all the tricks. the last time I changed mine, 2 weeks back, I left in the fan shroud to experiment. it is possible. but it seemed like the alternator only came out and went in one way lol. the back bolt is a PITA, but isn't bad if you're not afraid to get under the car and look around the A/C compressor.

it's more time consuming, but it is easier to just remove the fans.

 

who the **** cares about removing a fan shroud assembly? it takes like 5 ****in minutes and gives you a ****load more room. why wouldnt you just do it?

 

also this is a cinch if you have an extra pair of hands to benchpress the alternator from underneath while you put the top bolt into the bracket.

 

I never said don't remove it, I simply said it's not necessary. I even said next time I do it, I'm going to remove the shroud.

 

I have replaced my alternator 5 times in the past year... As of now, I need only remove 3 bolts, unplug the harness, and remove power wire and she comes out. Takes me less than 5 min with my setup

 

i removed ac compressor when i removed my alt. i didnt have to touch rad at all.

 

you mad bro?

I can see it taking 5 mins if you don't have stock intake. but people like me have a stock intake, and need to take 60% of it off to take the ram air part off.

 

He isn't made. He always talks like that.

 

It the drive belt tight? Is it old or glazed up?
Could be slipping when it's cold causing the low charge condition.
I've never heard of an alternator that only starts working a few minutes after its warmed up. Check the belt first, this could be an easy cheap fix.

 

heres a trouble shoot for anyone else with a charging problem.

my alternator main wire shorted out, which blew the 140a fuse right next to the battery. radio, windows, blower motors, and gauge lights stopped working. replace the fuse. most stores dont sell the 140a you need, but you can use a 120a fuse.

 

i wasnt speaking specifically to you.

 

correct-a-mundo.

its called cursing "bro." its part of my vocabulary. it just makes it look like youre mad when theyre all censored to hell. and i havent had a stock intake in a while but, i dont remember the ram air part taking more than 30 seconds to get off. so i guess 5 minutes and 30 seconds? you got me.

 

lol okay. yeah to get the ram air part off you gotta take the air filter out, the top, and the bottom part of the air filter cover(idk what they're called. the top part is snapped on, the bottom has 4 bolts holding it onto the body.) and then you can wiggle the ram air part out

 

i could always just wiggle mine out. without removing any of that.

 

I just did mine. like most ppl say remove fan shroud. Remove 4 condenser bolt and slide condenser forward let the hoses support if need be. From below car break loose button lower alt. Bolt with your left hand, as your right doesn't have the leverage to accomplish this. After loosening this bolt then complete unbolting from above. Follow these simple instructions and this job would be bearable .

 

you mean compressor. condenser will get you no room for this job.

 

You need an alternator if those dash lights come on. You will notice some other weird electrical problems as well if you do not replace it. I've replaced my alternator, wasn't too bad of a job, just took a little while. I did not remove the radiator, just displaced the fans. It was like 5 years ago so I don't remember what else I did. Hahaha

 

Yes ac compressor

 

yup samething my cousins neighbor had , her '99 max had an alternnator fail, battery & brake light on

 

I just did the alternator with the help of a buddy today. I stripped the belt tensioner bolt, need a new one.

 

i hate that bolt and it's entire existence. tried to help a friend replace his tensioner pulley and almost stripped it. never got it loose on his car.

 

Happened to me too! I torqued mine in half. Viscious, pick n pull on the south side is your friend! Got a bolt and bracket for around 6 bucks. plenty of them there too. Just find one that is not seized.

 

Damn, im having similiar issues on my 95...however i got battery only light,no brake light,but then again the whole rpm side doesnt light up at night either,so i could have other dead bulbs i guess..between this and my 99 se-l ripped apart for ball joints tie rod ends and some wirebrushing on the knuckles and probably a coat of paint to clean it up,im kind of mad LOL two maximas and need runs right now...although my 95 starts intermitantley...once i start it and shut it off it wont restart for 15-20 minutes....still think alternator??

 

NO. The main purpose of the alternator is to charge the battery. If the battery is run down and you try to start the car, the engine cranks slowly or not at all. If the engine cranks at normal speed, then the alternator is doing its job.

As far as your dashboard lights, you can check the brake light 2 ways. 1 - pull up on the parking brake handle. The brake should come on. 2 - With the engine off, turn the key to the "ON" position but don't start the car. ALL the warning lights should be on. Nissan calls this the bulb test.