SethGreen

So we all know that our vq30de are crammmmmed into our engine bays. Due to this Ive noticed alot of excess heat in our bays. The inakemani IMO is put in a bad place. My question is how do we get some better air flow into the bay? My thoughts we're simple stuff (CAI, removing the fender/splash guards) but it seems like there should be a better way of moving air through the bay. What are your thoughts?

max_dreamer

iTrader: (2)

i believe a bunch of guys use hood washers to lift the rear end of the hood to dissipate heat from the engine bay... since there is little to no flow stock, they do that to have a front to back flow of ventilation... aackshun could probably chime in here...

Also, if this is your attempt at figuring out how to eliminate some heatsoak, then you may look into the 00vi as well as the phenolic plenum spacers from NWP... Both apparently do a great job at reducing heat soak. 00vi = plastic mani and NWP spacers = plastic spacer between mani and other parts...

just some thoughts

SethGreen

This is some great advice. This is my first attempt at heatsoak so any help its awesome. The hood washer, how many and how high to they lift it? What about header wrap? And is the splash/fender guards even worth taking off? I know the my old honda accord had these ****ty aftermarket fenders on it, and b.c of that the engine bay had sooo much extra air flow going through it.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Actually our bays are quite roomy. Exactly what temperature is excessive??
How so, the stock intake draws cold air right off the top of the headlight, cold air with a ram effect.

Most "CAI"s for the max draw hot air off the radiator so no good there. Removing splash gaurds is going to mess up pressure differentials and could cause overheating on the highway.

Engine bays get hot, its a fact of life. What you think is TOO hot is fine. Your car isnt dead yet after how many years? I think Nissan engineers have more knowledge in thermodynamics and engineering than you.

infinimax96

Hardware store. 8 acrylic 1/2" washers 4 2" 12mm bolts. 2 spacers per bolt will give a 1" lift.

Remove the weather striping on the rear of the hood and this will draw air out in the same effect. This "mod" is a controversial topic. Doing my own research and testing I conducted I was able to establish benefits of doing this. I also have my hood set up like this because it does not latch properly with my larger radiator unless it's propped in the rear at least 1/2".

altezzablazes

good old hood pop. Its not needed at highway speeds. But as a DD n/a and boosted it does let more heat escape. But primarily gents. with snails under their hood used vented hood or "hood pop" to reduce bay temps

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

no.

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

also didnt someone say before that the NWP spacers are pointless pretty much for a 00vi? its either or id think.

max_dreamer

iTrader: (2)

yes... they are what i said they are... nothing more than plastic spacers...

and yes, they would be pretty much worthless if you have an 00vi... Im assuming you said no on the previous post because I put "and" between the 00vi and NWP... I didnt so much mean it as a combination but as an additional option... :/ sorry if that confused ya...

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

its been a while since i installed mine, but im pretty sure they are not made out of plastic dude.

max_dreamer

iTrader: (2)

phenolic spacers are pretty much just a high temp plastic. or at least when i looked up a local source for the stuff thats what i got out of their description...

http://www.regal-plastics.com/phenolic.html

starts life in resin form. gets some sort of weave in the mix and then pressurized to create sheets... :/ so i considered it plastic.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Spacers are generally made from one of two materials, wood or plastic (phenolic). The whole point of spacers is to insulate manifolds from engine heat, thus lowering intake temps. Added volume is just a bypruduct or perk.

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

ah it seemed like a lightweight metal when i was installing them, but i guess its just rigid plastic?

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

I have one of those usb obd2 readers and if you have an aftermarket intake it is drawing air, some of the air that passes through the radiator. My IAT is hooked up pre-turbo and it reads ircc about 30-40 degrees above the regular air temperature, this is with the regular intake manifold (non-00vi). The regular metal intake manifold even heats up the air even more past what is read at the IAT sensor.

Imagine the summer heat, underhood intake temps and 87 octane in these high compression engines..these things are built pretty tough.

thedwyer00

iTrader: (2)

No matter if the intake is metal or plastic, it will still absorb heat. If your goal is to minimize the heat, then 00VI + Phenolic Spacers is the way to go. There is a reason the phenolic spacers work well on the stock intake manifold, because they limit the heat transfer from the block to the manifold. Just because the 00VI does a good job of that itself, that does not render the spacers useless. The difference is less noticeable, true, but it still does make an improvement.

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

i beg to differ on that.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

I honestly don't think its really needed for us boosted guys. Yes, I'm sure it does allow some heat to escape but not enough to really effect performance. I haven't seen any of the 300+whp guys needing to use this. Id rather have an air duct right in front of the blower to cool it down.
I definitely don't think a car making under 200whp generates enough heat requiring the need of this horrible looking "mod".
Seems ricerish to me, like adding gauges for no real purpose.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

I doubt it, the UIM is metal as is the LIM, placing the spacer in between the two helps interupt the heat transfer. I don't see how effective it would be to place plastic on plastic to achieve the same result. I definitely dont think the results would be cost effective.
I really didn't even notice a big temp difference when placing my spacers in between my manis. I'm sure they helped, but nothing extremely noticeable. My UIM is still very hot to the touch.