Guys i just don't know what else to do except get a new MAF. have 4 which i bought at various times just to have . CEL went on p100,bad maf. So i change one still on after the reset and driving around, usually as soon as i floor my A/T . I even changed the wire on the harness only the red one just to make sure there was no short .. Can't be all my MAF's are bad. now what ?

got 00vi which i suspect is meesing with some readings and my stupid 99 ECU is making me go crazy. when maf code is present i never have a smooth acceleration when i WOT it i get a bit of hesitation after 4500 or so rpm.

experts please chime in. or anyone with something they know and i'm missing.

 

clean the maf, then put it back in, done.

 

Did that before putting it in

 

3 maf's later and still after two days it comes back on....damn it!

 

Maybe an intake leak?

http://www.boredmder.com/ecucodes/in...1999&DTC=P0100

 

ur intakes probably leaking if not then you didnt use maf cleaner to clean it.. but if you did... then you need to spray that **** down every line n the intake and run some seafoam thru the intake hose while the cars running then shut it off for 5 mins then start and rev until smokes gone.. if it works u owe me one

 

3 MAF sensors and the problem still exists means the MAF isn't the issue.
Check the wiring from the connector back to the ecu.

 

Found tree little holes in the k&n filter size of a fork punch. Would that ne considered a leak? So far with new filter has been around two hours driving and still no codes. Crossing fingers ... will post back

 

did all that thanks

 

 

Hopefully that was your issue.

I've had a rear O2 code for some time and with a new O2, the code came back. I finally got around to installing some silicone couplers with t-bolt clamps this weekend and I noticed that my old couplers were cracked. I think that was my issue and so far, my code hasn't come back. I'll see on my trips tomorrow *fingers crossed as well*

 

Oh well floored it and magic dreaded orange light is back. Ffrr

 

Maybe you have a leak somewhere else.

 

A leak would be between the MAF and throttle body. Are there any cracks in the duct or any vacuum tubing loose? Check the MAF GND circuit too.

 

What about after the TB?

 

is the isolator to the MAF good? that dryrots and causes a lot of problems.

 

sory but what's an isolator?
my friend at some point thought it was the red wire(main power to maf) could of shorted so he replaced it somewhere down the tubing that goes back to ecu. speaking of ecu shouldi rtae a wire all the way back to the actual ecu ? is that feasable without pulling the whole car apart ?

 

couldn't find any leaks

 

the isolator is the rubber gasket looking thing that goes on the end of the MAF opposite of the airbox. they dryrot and crack, and the ring rots off and it ends up causing all kindsa intake leaks. its only an $8 OEM part too and a 30 second install.

 

sorry been away sometime. isolator i removed completely and attached a rubber coupler which goes to throttle body secured by metal tightners.
just replaced the maf again from my friends drowned by sandy maxima, still same issue. not the maf.

need to pass inspection now and it's the only code outthere which is getting me beyond upset. should i just go back to stock intake at this point? suggestions?

 

It's worth a shot I guess? I had a civic that kept throwing iacv codes.. After 4 iacvs I tried swapping in a different ecu and the code never came back. I had the car for another year or so after that. Do you have a spare ecu available to you? At this point I would give that a try.

 

I personally took out my iacv and cleaned her real good to correct my poor idle. I have heard of similar problems your describing in the beginning of this thread, being from a damaged evap canoster just behind the rear drivers tire... also i saw one where the knock sensor was shorting out causing similar issues. Hope this helps

 

99 ecu is not a simple simple swap I think it has the chipped key wont be able to start it right up. When talk of cleaning iac is it just the black piece or I have to unbolt the metal piece fron TB ? cause I cleaned that black piece really well I think. Also after plugging it back I dont know which way to plug it back . It has six connections and they work both ways. But one makes my car run at 1200 rpm idle the other makes it stall. Then in park. It fluctuates like someone is pressing gas back and forth. Really weird .but drives like a champ. No stalls. Never had that before. How to know which way is correct? Maybe someone with 00vi set take a look at their and tell me? Right now I have. The purple wire on top...would really appreciate it

 

ive never ran a MAF without an isolator. wouldnt the MAF not be tight and flush withouth the isolator? regardless of a coupler.

 

correct me if im wrong but its not liquid just air. And with a rubb err. Coupler it sjould be fine.

 

It was mentioned before but have you checked the connector? Maybe its worth a try to swap the connector out. Maybe steal one from your friends Maxi. Btw I wasnt saying it was your iacv just mentioning a weird experience I had. My Civic would throw the code for iacv about every two weeks or less every time I reset the ecu. Once the light came on it would hesitate. After my 4th iacv I went out on a limb and swapped in a dif ecu. Viola! It never came back. Maybe the ecu had a short in it i dont know. It would be nice if you could try a different ecu just to rule that out.

 

"Coupler" will be fine only if it is also air-tight! It's not "just air" - air leaks behind the MAF introduce "unmetered air" (air the computer doesn't know about) into the combustion process. This can cause all kinds of driveability problems.

 

ok then how would i know for sure if any air leaks by the coupler which i got brand new and tightened real tight with that metal ring or the straight piece of piping which i got from autozone to attach to TB and maf ? some sort of "dye" kit ? hold a match ?

to another point i will try and switch if i can find another plug for maf.

 

you said cleaned, just the black piece or you unbolted the entire thing from TB ?

 

+1 on this. That isolator needs to be in the proper place and needs to be in good condition. When I replaced my MAF I found that I had to replace the isolator also - about $10 at the dealer (that is where I learned what it's name is!!). Good luck.

 

Yep c oupler I checked is securely tightened around maf.I wont buy something todo the same.it seems something electrical