My '98 Maxima SE (automatic) is at 111k now.

I had my starter go on me a few weeks ago, which was not fun. I replaced it in the parking lot before work, but I was out of state just a few days before that, so it was rather unnerving as I'm used to my maxima being rock solid reliable and I could have gotten stuck out of state.

So now I'm thinking about proactive parts replacement i.e. preventative maintenance.

Replaced the radiator at ~105k, since it developed a leak. I did the O2 sensors at ~65k or so and am planing on proactively replacing those at 120k. (And I've put the radiator and starter on my preventive maintenance list for 200k.)

Edit: Alternator done at around 100k.

Any recommendations on steps I should take to avoid "surprise" problems? Water pump? Fuel pump? Fuel filter? ... etc? What should I replace proactively? I'm in this for the long haul. I love my maxima.

Thanks

 

Things like the alternator, starter, and o2 sensors will usually show signs before needing replacement. Also, coolant is at all stores so radiator leaks can be dealt with no matter where you are. Thus, I would wait for those to go bad before throwing money at the car. Depends what peace of mind is worth to you, though.

At 100k miles I would just check the suspension parts. Control arms, bushings, struts, end links, etc. Spark plugs, fuel filter, gaskets, belts, and look over the exhaust. Change fluids. Give the car a good wash and wax. That makes it drive better, I swear it!!


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There a 2 schools of thought about this. One is to be proactive and the other is to fix what breaks when it happens. I subscribe to the latter.

Brakes, oil change, spark plugs, fuel filter are regular maintenance and have to be done. Check the alternator and power steering belts. If they are the originals, they probably don't have much life left. Same goes for all the hoses, radiator, heater, vacuum. Vacuum hoses get hard and brittle and lose the ability to seal when they connect, plus they can break if they get too brittle. Water hoses get soft and spongy and the water pressure will cause them to burst.

Mechanical parts like the starter, radiator, fuel pump, power steering pump, water pump, are unpredictable. To be replacing these when they a functioning just fine is a waste of money. The fuel pump does not fail that often, but you water pump and timing chain guides may be about ready to go. Don't forget about your ball joints, tie rod ends and sway bar bushings. All these things will have to be replaced eventually, but unless they are indicating failure, I would leave them alone.

 

christ, you have'nt even popped your maxes cherry yet. my father always said, " if it aint broke, don't fix it." just keep your eye on the fluids, suspension creaks, listen to how your car idles and check your tires and steering for uneven wear and poor handling. lca's and outer tie rods as well as bad wheel bearings will usually cause crappy /loose steering.

 

Thanks for the comments. Yeah, the miles are nice and low. We've had it since 2001, and I love the driver's ergonomics so much, I have a hard time imaging car shopping until at least another decade. I do wish it had an additional top gear and less road noise at interstate speeds though.

The alternator done at around 100k. Sorry, I forgot to mention that.

Spark plugs - Done at 60k (platinums). I have them scheduled for 120k.
Fuel filter - Still original. I'll have to put it on my to-do list.
Heater - I don't mind being cold, so I'll just wait until/if it breaks.
Vacuum - We have a vacuum pump in the maxima? Does it control the dials? (I guess I shouldn't be surprised if so. I'm just used to hearing about those in general aviation for instruments not needed in cars.) Is it that critical i.e. basically would I just simply loose gauge readings, but the car would be perfectly drivable otherwise?

Water pump - I may just hold off until I need to take another out of state trip, and replace it then. I get the idea of not wasting money if it does not need replacing, but I highly value a car I can completely count on.

I'll have to plan to check all the hoses, belts, et al. Some of the belts have been replaced by the shop I've used over the years. (I'm beginning to wean myself onto doing my own work. I lack a hot of how-to.)

Timing chain guide - i'll just keep an ear open for rattling during acceleration. (That's what to watch out for, right?)

Suspension - now that's something I know nothing about:
ica - what to watch out for here? Is abnormal torque steer the tale-tell symptom? What should I watch for for ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings et al? Just "general sloppiness"?

No uneven tire wear right now.

I don't know enough to know suspension creaks though. I haven't noticed anything unusual. I do cringe when I come to some rumble strips at a 4-way stop that I have to somewhat regularly endure. The strips make the whole car vibrate most unpleasantly. (A 1999 Mer C-Class and 2008 Acura RL AWD soke them up in stride -- the rumble strips are more heard than felt.) I assume this is just due to the simplicity of the Maxima's suspension? (The tires are relatively new Yokahama TK520s.)

 

I'm at a few less miles and aside from the usual maintenance, I'm changing axles because of my drop.

If you haven't already, I'd do spark plugs, fuel filter, PCV valve and clean the TB and IACV, maybe even the MAF. Might be a smart idea to change your KS as well.

Maybe struts/mounts if they're feeling bouncy but the rest of your suspension should be fine.

 

Front suspension issues are usually easy to spot. Noises are one thing. Or if the car drifts to one side. Jack the car up and shake tired with hands at 12 and 6. Then 3 and 9. If there is not to much movement you are good. Then uneven tire wear. I think those are all the signs of bad suspension.

Oh! And obviously if its to bouncy over bumps.


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The car does not have a vacuum pump. Vacuum is created in the intake manifold when a piston is on a downstroke sucking in fuel. The vacuum is used in various pollution controls and the cruise control. The dash gauges are all electrical. If a vacuum hose were to become disconnected, you would have the check engine light on. But I don't think driveability would be affected very much. Vacuum leaks can cause poor idling and may affect gas mileage.