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4th gen bose install

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Old 11-12-2012, 08:12 PM
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4th gen bose install

hey guys well im back in a 4th gen!! ill have some pics up but its fully loaded Has everything but bose. it has some crapy stock speakers and they suck, is it possible to hook up (plug and play) the bose speakers with amp etc. or does this require a whole new wiring harness.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:58 PM
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The wire harnesses are different. The Bose system uses more wires. There are 5 harnesses that are different - the main one under the dash, the 2 that run down the outside edges of the car and the 2 that are in the front doors.

While the Bose sounds pretty good, I would get a good aftermarket system instead of messing with the wiring. Check the audio forum, maybe you can find exactly what the differences are.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:16 AM
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True. I had the Bose in mine when I bought it. It was okay but the radio itself started to glitch out so I ended up ripping it all out and installing a 5-channel amp and putting wiring in anyway. Don't get me wrong I liked the Bose, but I wish I didn't have it because the result was the same with more work. I second Dennis' comment. Good aftermarket deck = plug n play. Easy if you don't require anything extravagant.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:38 AM
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just get a good head unit..ive always been a jvc head unit man after they quit selling jensen and went to phase liner which = JUNK like the boss ones lol
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:55 AM
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why in the world would you want to put the crappy BOSE system in your car? Get a good headunit and components and you will be good to go
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:41 PM
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The TL;DR for this giant block of text is that you can amplify the Bose Speakers with a Line Driver. Specifically a SPLIT-3003 made by Audio Pipe. Its cheap ( around 20$ ) and effective. I use one with my Pioneer Indash Navi and it's fantastic.

Long story short, Bose isnt that bad; BUT it depends on what you want to accomplish. Give me a better idea of what you want and we'll help you as much as possible. You can choose to listen to others or let your wallet take the blow.




Im not reading anyone above's posts but more than likely they are are giving you ****ty ideas. so I'll lay it out for you.

First and foremost, those 'crapy' Bose speakers aren't as 'crapy' as you think. For starters they are 14 years old and still work right?

The Bose speakers aren't made for gratuitous amounts of bass, deal with it.

If your looking to replace your head unit you will need a harness that you can buy almost anywhere. Cheap.

Now, when you replace your headunit you'll notice 2 things. 1. The speakers now sound even worse, and 2. they are typically quieter.

So that sucks. This is why you either drop an *** load of money on new speakers that will sound just as ****ty with the cheap head unit you bought, or you can keep the stock speakers that were designed for your car and use the Low Level Outputs on the back of your headunit.

Now, heres the issue.. 1. Your cheap headunit (im saying cheap becasue im assuming your not looking to drop a G-note on a 14 year old car's audio system.) only has 2 Low Level Outputs and they have a low voltage rating.

So Here's what I propose.

Make sure your head unit has a front and rear set of Low Level Output channel's and use the RCA's spliced to the signal wires to the BOSE Speakers. Now, they will more than likely the low voltage rating comes into play and you say, what the hell they're quiet as fawk.

thats where this comes into play. SPLIT-3003


Pasted Below is a forum post from forever ago I did for another forum member.


Oh and just to answer anyone who says go aftermarket, No; 1. Hes trying to stay as close to stock as possible, 2. BOSE is cheaper and sounds Great with a small Modification, and 3. with an aftermarket system you have a few more problems and things to buy! An Amp, Speakers, Wiring Kits, Line Output Converter for the amplifier in the back, and to top all that off.. THEY CAN GET STOLEN! I'd PAY to see some stump jumping moron pull out the stock speakers from a Maxima. PITA, and NOT WORTH IT TO THEM! Besides you can get all of the stuff you needed in a few days, and from the Junkyard!

But i wont be a D*** ill help you guys out. First off, your talking about making multiple components run off of a 4 channel head unit, so as long as you don't mind having the same channels in the back seats as the front everythings peachy.


Well, you want to stay stock huh? Okay thats doable.. First off you need to know that the stock BOSE Radio is completely unamplified, the outputs are Low Level. The speakers have their own amplifiers at the speaker.

So Thats Good Right? So what I personally did with my Indash Navi and such with only 2V Pre-outs was, buy a Split-3003 by Audiopipe off of Ebay. With it you will need probably around 10 RCA Connectors, just go to your junk drawer and see what you've got, and if you have to go out to some place that would sell RCA connections which is pretty much anywhere; cut them in half splice the wires onto your existing positive and negative wires from your head unit (Label them for the love of god!), plug them into the Splitter and do the same for the opposing wires. The SPLIT-3003 kinda looks like this with a whopping total of 6 Channel Inputs and 12 Outputs On the Splitter they are labeled as Front, Rear, and Sub.

Link to Product Description: http://www.caraudiochannel.com/lates...amplifier.html

FRS FRS
IN OUT1
| | | | | |
________
| SPLIT |
|_3003__|
| | | | | |
OUT2 OUT3
FRS FRS


The beauty of this Splitter is it is also an inexpensive line driver capable of making your existing outputs into anywhere from 4-8V !!! AND! it also gives your lines a 12 dB Boost!

Seriously guys my BlOwSE has never sounded so good, i can crank my volumes up to the absolute loudest i can with my Navi and its Crystal Clear, and thats really fricken loud.

Go ahead take out your stock HU, and using this diagram splice the wires such and youll be running wires from the Pre-outs on the second or third set of Line outs and running them back to your door speakers. Give the Splitter a good ground, a Power Source and Connect the blue wire to the Turn On wire. And to top this all off you can PROBABLY fit the Splitter behind your stock headunit I know I fit mine behind my indash and its deeper than the stock headunit, and its Jungle of Wires back there! That should be It!~

Constant 12V+ : Pink/Blue
Switched 12V+ : Blue/Black
Ground Vehicle : Chassis
Illumination : Red/Blue
Dimmer : Red/Orange
Antenna Trigger : Black/Red
Antenna Right Rear
Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+) : Blue/White
Left Front (-) : Blue/Yellow
Right Front (+) : Brown
Right Front (-) : Brown/White
Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+) : Red
Left Rear (-) : Green
Right Rear (+) : Blue
Right Rear (-) : Pink

For some reason not all the wiring info is showing up so! heres a link to crutchfield.

Link: http://www.crutchfield.com/app/Suppo...issan%20Maxima

I know I missed some things in this, so ask away.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:54 PM
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good info to know man. im running a kenwood dnx7100 head unit with navi its really good but i just go with after market speakers thinking about goin with jl audio. now that i no the bose isnt plug n play,to lazy to deal with all that wiring..lol
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:00 PM
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alright, well thats a decent bill; if you can stomach it go for it. But make sure you get everything in the right enviorment, crossovered properly, and carrying the appropriate load.
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:55 AM
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The fact is that you are better off running decent aftermarket speakers since you are running the Kenwood NAVI. Pick some well rounded ones unless you plan to go all out because many will seem lacking in the mid-bass department if you use BOSE as a reference. Bose speakers run at a different impedance so unless the device changes load it isn't the right way. I didn't take a close look at that device but (forgive me if I am wrong) I assume it is just a booster that beefs up voltage to achieve higher gain. Just be careful because when I took my stock audio out I ended up with more audio gear than I bought my car for. If you have any questions please feel free to pm me. I'm not the best with a car but audio I can do.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by FallenOne
The TL;DR for this giant block of text is that you can amplify the Bose Speakers with a Line Driver. Specifically a SPLIT-3003 made by Audio Pipe. Its cheap ( around 20$ ) and effective. I use one with my Pioneer Indash Navi and it's fantastic......
The best line covnerter for BOSE by far was the PD-4 from audiolink. They went out of business, I think mostly because no one wanted to pay $150+ for what was esseentially a 20$ line converter.

Part of the reason it rocked is that, unlike other line converters it did not start with an already amplified signal, then send it to the amplifier again, introducing more distortion to the signal. The PD4 took the un-amplified Bose signal, or the line out from a Pioneer head unit, Bosefied it, and finally sending the un-amplified Bosefied signal to the Bose speakers. Therefore the audio signal is amplified only once by the Bose amp/speakers, as normal.

You may still find used ones cheap on ebay. You will also need a harness like the ones from crutchfield to connect to your HU and OE bose harness;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AudioLink-PD...p2047675.l2557

I have the PD4 with an aftermarket Clarion Head unit hooked up to my 98 I30 stock Bose speakers.

All my Ipod music digitally feeds the HU. L-O-V-E it.

Also, one last thing. I don't know why, but one by-product of the system was, when I hooked up the PD4 system, my stock tweeters in the doors really woke up. Unexpected niceness.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:31 AM
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I'm getting ready for what would be my 4th Bose head unit (split between different Maximas) but I'm getting tired of having to replace them and I may just get an aftermarket unit with the line level adaptors. So all this information is good for me.

But going back to the op, his car does not have a Bose in it. We have gotten a little (a lot?) off track on his question.
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by FallenOne
alright, well thats a decent bill; if you can stomach it go for it. But make sure you get everything in the right enviorment, crossovered properly, and carrying the appropriate load.
preciate it
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Old 11-23-2012, 04:02 PM
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so i just installed the complete bose setup and i must say its was really worth it, if any one needs help on how to convert over to bose please feel free to ask me ill be posting a complete write up, it wasnt as has hard as people might think..
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by lux97Max
so i just installed the complete bose setup and i must say its was really worth it, if any one needs help on how to convert over to bose please feel free to ask me ill be posting a complete write up, it wasnt as has hard as people might think..
Create the write-up then as you stated. Would help if you have pictures to go with it so in the future if someone asks, we know where to send them.
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:47 PM
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I always felt like 4th gen Bose speakers were incredible for a stock system...
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by lux97Max
so i just installed the complete bose setup and i must say its was really worth it, if any one needs help on how to convert over to bose please feel free to ask me ill be posting a complete write up, it wasnt as has hard as people might think..
That's awesome
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CallMeThatOneGuy
I always felt like 4th gen Bose speakers were incredible for a stock system...

Its good enough for me plus I can go to bed at night not worrying about someone breaking in to take it because its crap in most people eyes.
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by CallMeThatOneGuy
I always felt like 4th gen Bose speakers were incredible for a stock system...
I would highly agree! I just swapped out my factory bose HU with a Dual 8150 HU, scosche adapter (did I really need it?), nissan wiring harness adapter for less than $100.00 bux. Sound pretty darn good even without taking in consideration the speakers are 13 years old. The original HU do not do these speakers justice, although not sure if they will hold up, time will tell. A 10" sub and it would be killer for less than a $300.00. Wish I could say that about the Mach 500 in my Mustang.
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