1995 maxima automatic
12-10-2012, 08:46 AM
#2
2. Automatic models should have the fluid checked (color/smell) and should not slip when shifting. Overly firm shifting is common and can be a symptom of the next thing to check...
3. Worn, cracked, torn, or otherwise defective engine and transmission mounts are common. When these mounts are defective they put extra stress on other parts (axles, differential carrier bearings, etc.) and should not be ignored. Typically the front and/or rear mounts are all that need to be replaced. In situations where the car was neglected though, replacing all four mounts is a good idea.
4. The valve covers, oil pans, rear main seal, oil pressure switch, and the front crankshaft seal (plus others sometimes) are very prone to leaking after so many years. The valve covers aren't too hard to do if you're semi-experienced, but expect to pay $250-500 for a mechanic to do the job. The real main seal can only be replaced when the transmission is removed, and is easier if the upper oil pan is off too.
5. The original crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer will start to crack and fall apart eventually. Sometimes this is 200k+ miles, sometimes much sooner. If it does fail you will be stranded. Dorman makes an aftermarket pulley that is about 1/3 the cost of the Nissan part.
6. Cars with Bose stereo systems can have problems with the speakers and amplifiers going bad. There is a small amplifier behind each door speaker and each rear deck speaker on these systems. Power antenna masts need to be replaced periodically. The power antenna motor is usually not defective, just the mast. (which is much cheaper)
7. If the car has had oil leaks for some time, the passenger front control arm bushing is probably worn out from oil eating away the rubber. On high mileage cars the control arms, inner/outer tie rods, and sway bar end links should be inspected or just replaced to be on the safe side. This typically makes the car drive much, much better.
8. Speaking of suspension parts, the struts and shocks last typically around 60k miles or so on most cars. Plan on replacing them if they are the originals. Also, you'll need new front strut mounts, front strut bearings, and bellows (boots) to do this job properly. Other parts may need to be replaced too...like the spring isolators. Inspect and replace as necessary.
9. The original alternator can be hit or miss. Sometimes it will last 200k+ miles and other times they have been replaced many times on the car. Rebuilt alternators are very hit or miss as well. Try to get a 100% new one instead. Cleaning and/or adding a few additional (or larger) grounds helps a lot. Many times you'll see easier starting and brighter lights when this is done.
10. The knock sensor is very temperamental in these cars. Many people (myself included) have had luck with the cheap knock sensors (knock off knock sensors? ) on ebay. The part from Nissan is $$$. It's an easy part to replace, if you have small hands.
11. 1999 models had issues with their ignition coil packs. If buying a '99 find out if they have been replaced. New ones are ~$100 each.
The rest of the issues are pretty much issues with all cars. Inspect the brakes, A/C, power steering, exhaust, and cooling systems. Replace the fluids and filters as recommended by Nissan. Clean, straight cars are usually better than a wrecked car, etc.
Good luck!!!!
3. Worn, cracked, torn, or otherwise defective engine and transmission mounts are common. When these mounts are defective they put extra stress on other parts (axles, differential carrier bearings, etc.) and should not be ignored. Typically the front and/or rear mounts are all that need to be replaced. In situations where the car was neglected though, replacing all four mounts is a good idea.
4. The valve covers, oil pans, rear main seal, oil pressure switch, and the front crankshaft seal (plus others sometimes) are very prone to leaking after so many years. The valve covers aren't too hard to do if you're semi-experienced, but expect to pay $250-500 for a mechanic to do the job. The real main seal can only be replaced when the transmission is removed, and is easier if the upper oil pan is off too.
5. The original crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer will start to crack and fall apart eventually. Sometimes this is 200k+ miles, sometimes much sooner. If it does fail you will be stranded. Dorman makes an aftermarket pulley that is about 1/3 the cost of the Nissan part.
6. Cars with Bose stereo systems can have problems with the speakers and amplifiers going bad. There is a small amplifier behind each door speaker and each rear deck speaker on these systems. Power antenna masts need to be replaced periodically. The power antenna motor is usually not defective, just the mast. (which is much cheaper)
7. If the car has had oil leaks for some time, the passenger front control arm bushing is probably worn out from oil eating away the rubber. On high mileage cars the control arms, inner/outer tie rods, and sway bar end links should be inspected or just replaced to be on the safe side. This typically makes the car drive much, much better.
8. Speaking of suspension parts, the struts and shocks last typically around 60k miles or so on most cars. Plan on replacing them if they are the originals. Also, you'll need new front strut mounts, front strut bearings, and bellows (boots) to do this job properly. Other parts may need to be replaced too...like the spring isolators. Inspect and replace as necessary.
9. The original alternator can be hit or miss. Sometimes it will last 200k+ miles and other times they have been replaced many times on the car. Rebuilt alternators are very hit or miss as well. Try to get a 100% new one instead. Cleaning and/or adding a few additional (or larger) grounds helps a lot. Many times you'll see easier starting and brighter lights when this is done.
10. The knock sensor is very temperamental in these cars. Many people (myself included) have had luck with the cheap knock sensors (knock off knock sensors? ) on ebay. The part from Nissan is $$$. It's an easy part to replace, if you have small hands.
11. 1999 models had issues with their ignition coil packs. If buying a '99 find out if they have been replaced. New ones are ~$100 each.
The rest of the issues are pretty much issues with all cars. Inspect the brakes, A/C, power steering, exhaust, and cooling systems. Replace the fluids and filters as recommended by Nissan. Clean, straight cars are usually better than a wrecked car, etc.
Good luck!!!!
Last edited by max ride 41; 12-10-2012 at 08:51 AM.
12-10-2012, 11:39 AM
#3
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 2
2. Automatic models should have the fluid checked (color/smell) and should not slip when shifting. Overly firm shifting is common and can be a symptom of the next thing to check...
3. Worn, cracked, torn, or otherwise defective engine and transmission mounts are common. When these mounts are defective they put extra stress on other parts (axles, differential carrier bearings, etc.) and should not be ignored. Typically the front and/or rear mounts are all that need to be replaced. In situations where the car was neglected though, replacing all four mounts is a good idea.
4. The valve covers, oil pans, rear main seal, oil pressure switch, and the front crankshaft seal (plus others sometimes) are very prone to leaking after so many years. The valve covers aren't too hard to do if you're semi-experienced, but expect to pay $250-500 for a mechanic to do the job. The real main seal can only be replaced when the transmission is removed, and is easier if the upper oil pan is off too.
5. The original crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer will start to crack and fall apart eventually. Sometimes this is 200k+ miles, sometimes much sooner. If it does fail you will be stranded. Dorman makes an aftermarket pulley that is about 1/3 the cost of the Nissan part.
6. Cars with Bose stereo systems can have problems with the speakers and amplifiers going bad. There is a small amplifier behind each door speaker and each rear deck speaker on these systems. Power antenna masts need to be replaced periodically. The power antenna motor is usually not defective, just the mast. (which is much cheaper)
7. If the car has had oil leaks for some time, the passenger front control arm bushing is probably worn out from oil eating away the rubber. On high mileage cars the control arms, inner/outer tie rods, and sway bar end links should be inspected or just replaced to be on the safe side. This typically makes the car drive much, much better.
8. Speaking of suspension parts, the struts and shocks last typically around 60k miles or so on most cars. Plan on replacing them if they are the originals. Also, you'll need new front strut mounts, front strut bearings, and bellows (boots) to do this job properly. Other parts may need to be replaced too...like the spring isolators. Inspect and replace as necessary.
9. The original alternator can be hit or miss. Sometimes it will last 200k+ miles and other times they have been replaced many times on the car. Rebuilt alternators are very hit or miss as well. Try to get a 100% new one instead. Cleaning and/or adding a few additional (or larger) grounds helps a lot. Many times you'll see easier starting and brighter lights when this is done.
10. The knock sensor is very temperamental in these cars. Many people (myself included) have had luck with the cheap knock sensors (knock off knock sensors? ) on ebay. The part from Nissan is $$$. It's an easy part to replace, if you have small hands.
11. 1999 models had issues with their ignition coil packs. If buying a '99 find out if they have been replaced. New ones are ~$100 each.
The rest of the issues are pretty much issues with all cars. Inspect the brakes, A/C, power steering, exhaust, and cooling systems. Replace the fluids and filters as recommended by Nissan. Clean, straight cars are usually better than a wrecked car, etc.
Good luck!!!!
3. Worn, cracked, torn, or otherwise defective engine and transmission mounts are common. When these mounts are defective they put extra stress on other parts (axles, differential carrier bearings, etc.) and should not be ignored. Typically the front and/or rear mounts are all that need to be replaced. In situations where the car was neglected though, replacing all four mounts is a good idea.
4. The valve covers, oil pans, rear main seal, oil pressure switch, and the front crankshaft seal (plus others sometimes) are very prone to leaking after so many years. The valve covers aren't too hard to do if you're semi-experienced, but expect to pay $250-500 for a mechanic to do the job. The real main seal can only be replaced when the transmission is removed, and is easier if the upper oil pan is off too.
5. The original crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer will start to crack and fall apart eventually. Sometimes this is 200k+ miles, sometimes much sooner. If it does fail you will be stranded. Dorman makes an aftermarket pulley that is about 1/3 the cost of the Nissan part.
6. Cars with Bose stereo systems can have problems with the speakers and amplifiers going bad. There is a small amplifier behind each door speaker and each rear deck speaker on these systems. Power antenna masts need to be replaced periodically. The power antenna motor is usually not defective, just the mast. (which is much cheaper)
7. If the car has had oil leaks for some time, the passenger front control arm bushing is probably worn out from oil eating away the rubber. On high mileage cars the control arms, inner/outer tie rods, and sway bar end links should be inspected or just replaced to be on the safe side. This typically makes the car drive much, much better.
8. Speaking of suspension parts, the struts and shocks last typically around 60k miles or so on most cars. Plan on replacing them if they are the originals. Also, you'll need new front strut mounts, front strut bearings, and bellows (boots) to do this job properly. Other parts may need to be replaced too...like the spring isolators. Inspect and replace as necessary.
9. The original alternator can be hit or miss. Sometimes it will last 200k+ miles and other times they have been replaced many times on the car. Rebuilt alternators are very hit or miss as well. Try to get a 100% new one instead. Cleaning and/or adding a few additional (or larger) grounds helps a lot. Many times you'll see easier starting and brighter lights when this is done.
10. The knock sensor is very temperamental in these cars. Many people (myself included) have had luck with the cheap knock sensors (knock off knock sensors? ) on ebay. The part from Nissan is $$$. It's an easy part to replace, if you have small hands.
11. 1999 models had issues with their ignition coil packs. If buying a '99 find out if they have been replaced. New ones are ~$100 each.
The rest of the issues are pretty much issues with all cars. Inspect the brakes, A/C, power steering, exhaust, and cooling systems. Replace the fluids and filters as recommended by Nissan. Clean, straight cars are usually better than a wrecked car, etc.
Good luck!!!!
12-11-2012, 06:41 AM
#5
ill be honest, i copied and pasted it from another thread. only thing i disagreed with is the ebay knock sensor, i would go oem. i did almost everything in this list to my car, so why re-type all the info again. 
12-12-2012, 06:35 PM
#6
That is true because I have OEM knock sensors but I figured people will not shell out the price for it so that's why I let the ebay ones go. If I had not went down the aftermarket parts road, my car would have been prestine right now. Almost changed everything back to OEM even the brake pads with far less dusting and better braking under heavy stop and go.
12-12-2012, 07:53 PM
#7
yeah, i have akebono's on front and rear. 45.00 a set and low dust and no noise. my brother keeps trying to get me to dump the car, and in the meantime put cheap pads and low end parts on her. i told him he's nuts, this cars gonns last to the 300k mark. and at the rate im going, she'll be 30 years old by the time the mileage is that high.
12-12-2012, 09:42 PM
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: East Moline, IL
Posts: 54
Awesome post. I didn't realize number 2 about the mounts, makes sense though. I have all of these problems because I was in college and couldn't afford to keep up with it and the plan was to sell car and get something newer. Well life happened and I still have the Car, 96 GLE, and I have 98% of this list. Rock Auto, and Harbor Freight have become my new best friends. I like all the How to's, very helpful. I appreciate the list.
I will look at the harmonic balancer to see it's condition. Will I be able to see cracks in it or does it need to be removed to be inspected?
I have original alternator, well it's the same one when I bought the car in 07 with 113k on it, now 246k. Most of the car is original. It started up every time every day, ran great average 26-27 mpg. The only reason it's down is due to me not reading the F-ing manual. I broke water-pump bolt. I have been looking on Courtesy Nissan's web site I like the exploded views. Very helpful.
I will look at the harmonic balancer to see it's condition. Will I be able to see cracks in it or does it need to be removed to be inspected?
I have original alternator, well it's the same one when I bought the car in 07 with 113k on it, now 246k. Most of the car is original. It started up every time every day, ran great average 26-27 mpg. The only reason it's down is due to me not reading the F-ing manual. I broke water-pump bolt. I have been looking on Courtesy Nissan's web site I like the exploded views. Very helpful.
12-12-2012, 10:34 PM
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: East Moline, IL
Posts: 54
Wow the parts list just keeps growing.
I have the front motor mount with the sensor, Holy crap that's an expensive piece of rubber and strain gauge!
I will have to inspect them a little more and use my crow bar to see how much movement I got. I don't really want to replace everything. I may just get a used engine rather than replace a bunch of internal stuff. Hard to tell what you will get with a junkyard engine though.
I read some simple things to check but you really can't get a good compression reading on one in a junkyard.
I may patch it up and sell it, since I have already spent $500+ in parts and tools.
I have the front motor mount with the sensor, Holy crap that's an expensive piece of rubber and strain gauge!
I will have to inspect them a little more and use my crow bar to see how much movement I got. I don't really want to replace everything. I may just get a used engine rather than replace a bunch of internal stuff. Hard to tell what you will get with a junkyard engine though.
I read some simple things to check but you really can't get a good compression reading on one in a junkyard.
I may patch it up and sell it, since I have already spent $500+ in parts and tools.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
follyburr
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
0
08-12-2015 08:57 PM
cmpowell86
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
1
08-10-2015 12:35 AM